jimmyjoe

Hey @flyfisher! You know you're being baited, don't you? This person is setting you up. He needs to validate his combative techniques, which will increase his ideas of self-worth. Always remember three things : 1) Everyone sees the world through their own eyes. That means they expect people to be the same as they are. Thieves think everyone is trying to steal from them. Liars think everyone is lying to them. People who are abusive expect others to be abusive. 2) Just because a dog barks, doesn't mean you need to bark back. 3) Never wrestle a pig. You just get dirty and the pig loves the attention. Too bad this had to happen in a thread commemorating those who died so that the freedom exemplified by America could be available to everyone, everywhere, and not perish from the earth. jj

All I can tell you is how I use it. If the total weight of whatever I want to use it with is under 1/2 ounce, and the technique is benefited by a reasonably stiff tip, I use this rod and reel. I know it says "1/8 - 3/8", but I use it a little stronger than that. Now that I've said that, I'll break it next week on a 1/8 oz. jig. ??? Seriously .... I loved it for light t-rigs, especially 6" ribbontails. I've thrown all sorts of small cranks with it, but it sure as heck ain't no ideal treble hook stick. Too stiff a tip. I love it anyway. jj

" .... I'd say you hit that nail right on the head. jj

That makes two of us. ? jj

The principles you mentioned apply to just about anything, not just fishing. jj

Good reel! Good rod! Good line! Good luck! ? jj

I have the 7'-01" MH/F Mojo rod, and I use it a lot. I like it especially for 1/2 oz. spinnerbaits, but it's OK for 1/2-8/10 oz. spoons, also. I personally would not use a 150-size reel on that rod. I feel that the 200-size is a much better "workhorse" reel. I have a Citica on it now, and had a Curado on it last year. If you're thinking of putting a 150-size DC reel on this rod to work the lower portion of the weightband (3/8 - 5/8 versus 1/2 - 1 oz.) so as to work soft plastics, I would make sure that you feel it has the sensitivity you need. The 150-size reel would, of course, then be the better choice. Good luck! jj

I'm a shorecaster. In my car, I've got a 2 tackle bags that holds 4-5 37xx boxes and 4 34xx boxes each. I go to the lake or river, figure which lures I'm most likely to use, and put those lures in 2 or 3 34xx series boxes in a small backpack. That's it. When I come back for lunch, I might change lure sets .... or then again, I might not. Some days I have good success with only 3 or 4 lures. jj

He's not the only one. Clear communication skills indicate clear thinking. Unclear communication skills indicate unclear thinking. That's not something to make one proud. Or to put it another way: There are two sorts of people in this world; one kind criticizes you to pull you up a level and make you better, and another kind criticizes you to drag you down a level. Everyone has a choice. They can be whichever they want. jj

Slack line management. jj

Now there is some useful information! Partially explains (I know, only partially) why I miss so many hooksets at distance. Thank you, @WRB jj

What's really sad is how many don't care. ☹️ jj

I've noticed 2 things: 1) twisted eye seems to last longer than "r" bend. 2) spinnerbaits that advertise a thinner wire (that promotes vibration more) don't last as long. I have a couple J-Macs that are 2 years old, and I've repainted them with touch-up paint and put new skirts on them, and they still catch just fine. jj

Crappie like lures that 1) don't move fast, and 2) flutter down to their depth rather than coming in at the same level. So I've used small flutter spoons (Eppinger Chucklet or 1/8 oz. Trout weight Dardevle) or very erratic spoons, portraying an injured forage fish ( 1/6 oz. Thomas Buoyant or E.P. spoons). Any of the Charlie Brewer crappie lures have been effective, also. On a windy day, try 1/16 marabou jigs under a slip bobber. Sunfish are suckers for small plastic worms, stickbaits and curly tail baits. jj

Ah, I see. Oh well, so much for that thought. jj

You said that the line broke "within a couple feet" of the lure. If you had a crack in the bottom of one of your guides, then you'd get breakage often and consistently. But what if you had a crack in the top of the insert, the side away from the blank? Then you wouldn't run your line over the crack on the retrieve, and you wouldn't notice a pattern that was often or consistent. But on the backcast, the rod flexes backwards. The weight of the lure would pull the line over a crack that was situated on the top side of the insert, weakening the line. Then the retrieve would re-align everything again, and you'd not notice anything amiss. A few more casts, and ..... BAM! Broken line. And the break point would be within the length of line between the line that you leave outside of the tiptop and the stripper guide or (more possible) one of the next two guides. Possibility? If you can remember accurately how much broken-off line was left on the lure and how much line you leave outside of the tiptop on a normal cast, measure backwards through your guides and pinpoint the guide at the break point. Go over it VERY carefully with a Q-TIP, checking for any signs of a crack. Just a random thought. jj

My brother's PB came on a black Hula Popper. As for me, I always fished them just at the outside of weedbeds where there were frogs. If there were no frogs evident at that location, I wouldn't use the Hula Popper. For action, I'd pop them, and then pause about 30 seconds, maybe a little more (I'm an impatient person. ? ) For some reason I've always used them just after dawn or just before sunset. That is a habit instilled in me many, many years ago. I don't know, I guess I've just not seen any reason to change. ? jj

Always, my friend. Always. jj

I did not intend to put forth the idea that I NEVER backlash. I've never met a person yet ..... not anyone ..... who does not have an occasional bird's nest, and I'm included in that. Accidents happen, and I've always thought that most of them were the fault of the fisherman and not the equipment. But there are line and reel co0mbinations that are definitely not prone to backlash, just as there are line and reel combinations that are much more prone to backlash. I have tried to avoid the latter for many years. As for broaching the idea that someone is a liar, that's something that you might think, but should not say. Couching your replies in an antagonistic manner benefits no one. jj

You can get a 5.5:1 set of drive and pinion gears for the Citica, if you feel that would be better for you. jj

^^^^^ Best advice in the house. ^^^^^ jj

IMO, this is the big weakness of FC. That's why I tried to find a line/reel combination that gave me what I wanted but did not backlash. As for knots, I had trouble with knot strength UNTIL I went to the San Diego Jam knot. End of problems for me. I use 12 lb. InvisX on a M/MF crankbait rod. The reel is a Curado 70. jj

If I understand you correctly, You're referring to the Mojo Bass M/F rods, 1/4-5/8 and 10-17 test line for the casting, 3/16-5/8 and 6-12 test for the spinning. Is that correct? If that's the case, I'd get the spinning. When I used soft plastic, my most productive technique was wacky rigging. I definitely like spinning better for wacky rigging and for T-rigged Senkos. For flukes, craws and ribbontail worms it was a tossup. BTW .... I had the Mojo casting, but my spinning was the Avid M/F, not the Mojo. My friend's wife has the Mojo spinning, and I used it a bit. Good rod; I liked it. Mono was my line choice. I tried several braids and didn't like the twist. jj

Let me take a wild guess: Pink was on sale. Am I right or wrong? ? jj

Yup. The kids have been gone for 20 years, but when they were home my wife baked bread in cast-iron bread pans. That crust was the absolute best. Naturally, I stole the heel ...... ? Like rendering fat for lard, and then lard and oak ashes for lye soap. Two more uses for cast iron. jj