mrstangblb

It’s sitting on the 20v reading so it should be fine - for my Sun Dolphin Sportsman. I just wondered if that was any problem cutting off the leads.

I’m curious - I thought about cutting the leads off a Harbor Freight multimeter, attaching ring terminals and connecting it to my deep cycle battery. I’ll put the multimeter itself in a waterproof bag and will turn on the switch when I want a reading. Anything completely wrong with that idea? I have at least 5 of the free multimeters and can save money using one of them.

I still have my first kayak - a Field & Stream Eagle Talon sit on top, and I see it’s on sale now for $399.99 at Dick’s. If you can sign up for their email list you may still get 10% off, and I have always enjoyed mine. I’m just too tall for kayaks to be comfortable so I’m selling mine.

I have a Vibe Sea Ghost 110 and have been very pleased with it (all except the design of the foot pedals with clips - clips often work their ways out). I’m 6’-6” and about 240, so I’m just not comfortable in any kayaks, but the Vibe is great in its price range. I’m selling my blue camo only because I bought a Sun Dolphin Sportsman a couple of weeks ago - it’s much more comfortable sitting higher and I can still go anywhere my kayak can.

I just bought one of the Duracell batteries, too with rebate after reading great reviews and hope to get my little boat on the water this weekend. Probably will be late, though - supposed to be HOT here in SC!

That’s what the 40 pound motor calls for in the specs.

I piddled around yesterday trying to get the best way to put an inline Attwood 50amp breaker on a Minn Kota Power Station battery box for my Minn Kota C2 40 lb. thrust trolling motor, and after looking at it closely I noticed that I could take 2 Phillips head screws out for access to the electrical components. Unscrewing the nut on top of the 60amp breaker lets you drop it down for access to its wiring, and I took that wiring loose for it and the attached wire that runs to the 10amp accessory breaker. Attaching the Attwood 50amp requires hollowing out the holes on the connectors just a bit, so I took a small file to easily enlarge them just enough to fit tightly on the contacts. I took the 60amp breaker out, wrapped its contacts with electrical tape, and replaced it so the hole in the top is filled like it previously was - but it is bypassed completely. Now instead of the larger 60amp breaker in the box I have the 50amp, but I will need to take the small Phillips screws out again to reset it. I may just cut an access hole to get to the breaker eventually, but this should do for now without having to splice or add any wiring and additional connectors.

I feel sorry for y’all for more than just boat titling. ? My stepsister and her husband moved out of Highland Mills last year to NC.

I got the Harbor Freight floor tiles for $7.99 - 20% the other day and they’re great!: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html

And dang - titling a 4' x 8'-7" 100 lb. plastic boat is harder to do here in South Carolina than titling a car! Unbelievable how complicated filling out everything is.

I see in the manual 36" is correct. Sorry about that. But I do plan to put the trolling motor in the back of the boat where the plate is instead of the front.

Dumb question from a new Sun Dolphin Sportsman 8' owner - I bought a Minn Kota C2 40 lb. trolling motor with a 36" shaft to put on the Sportsman. I just looked on the tag that was actually on the boat when I bought it, and it recommends shaft lengths of 42" to 52". Surely I haven't bought the wrong shaft length, right? I haven't even opened the box for the trolling motor yet and haven't measured to see how well it will go on the boat, so I look forward to the expert responses. Thanks as always!

They say that stuff flakes off pretty quickly.

At Lake Cunningham and Lake Robinson near Greer, SC, the accesses to the landings are concrete and asphalt. I know a fellow that lives on Lake Cunningham, but his back yard is just about straight up. I had a little hard time dragging my kayak through his back yard, so I'd probably have a time sure enough with this boat.

I still have a little trouble backing trailers up, so don't feel bad!

This is the battery I bought, Tom: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli31mdc I’ve never had a deep cycle battery so I’m curious how to get into this one to maintain it.

I’m curious about best charging technique, too - I just bought a Duracell 31 at Batteries Plus with rebate last week.

I looked at those last week in Pickens, SC hoping I would go away with one, but I could not get comfortable in anything. I drove over to Anderson and bought a little Sun Dolphin Sportsman. Cool little boat that’s much more comfortable for my 6’-6” self, but I wanted a Bonafide! Really well made.

Just bought this little Sun Dolphin Sportsman last Friday and got it on the water Sunday after church. Cool little boat for those of us that can't put a big amount of money into anything but still want to fish - and now I'll sell my Vibe and Eagle Talon kayaks since this Sportsman is a LOT more comfortable to me. I'm 6'-6" and never could get comfortable in any kayak I've had, so I'm going to let them go. Really like the little Sportsman, though, since I can paddle it if I have to, and it goes right in the back of my Tundra. Adding the Academy Sports padded seat makes a LOT of difference, and I'll put my Minn Kota C2 40# on it this week to try it out (if it ever stops raining here in South Carolina).

True. I’m going to try one thing first - I realized I had some big truck weatherstripping in the trash. I’m going to see if Gorilla taping a 12” strip over the back pontoon edges will stay on there a while. It’s at least 3” wide, and if it stays on it’ll be worth fooling with.

I sure appreciate the link. I have seen that material, but wow - that’s 1/4 to 1/2 the price of the boat itself.

BUT the Harbor Freight antifatigue mats I have in the boat covering the ridges in the floor might now serve a double purpose - I could pull them out and put them under it thanks to your idea. I have the smooth parts up in the boat - I could put them down and slide the boat over the rougher, slicker bottom.

That's possible, I guess, but it might be a little clumsy getting it underneath the boat.

Just bought my Sportsman 8' Friday locally, and I have to admit - this is a pretty doggone fun little boat. I have had a couple of good kayaks over the last 3 years (started with a Field and Stream Eagle Talon and upgraded to a Vibe Sea Ghost 110), but my butt would fall asleep and my back would hurt in both of them after only about an hour on the water. Not ideal for a full day of fishing, to say the least. This Sportsman is GREAT for what I want. Fits right in the back of my '07 Tundra Crewmax with no problem at all and is fairly easy for me to deal with, BUT I have a question for you guys. I'm often by myself fishing, and kayaks are easy to throw around and to put carts under. I have a C-Tug cart that I could use with a little modification with the Sportsman, but for the 3 or 4 feet that I have to drag it out of the water to the truck, I need to find what's best to put on the edges of the back of the pontoons to keep from scratching the hound out of it. I put 3 layers of Gorilla tape on it Sunday after church on the maiden voyage, but you can see it got shredded in a hurry, and that's after only about 5 feet from the landing to the back of the truck. Could I get 3M 3200 Adhesive to put on some stainless steel strips to bend around the edges to keep from scratching so badly? Or what other recommendations might you have? I am FOR SURE open for any suggestions. I bought this boat because it's 2/3 of the price of my Vibe, and I want to sell both my kayaks now that I have this boat. I just don't want to scratch it so badly. 2 pics show what's going on it soon, and 2 of them show the Gorilla tape in place after dragging just a few feet. Thanks for any help you can give me! This thread is INCREDIBLY helpful and very addictive. Barry ----------- Jeremiah 29:11-13 / John 3:16