ohioguy25

Yeah, I’ve been looking at that Rod for a while, sounds like the do everything. What is your dedicated bladed jig Rod?

You’ve all heard of this, the period immediately following spawning activity when larger fish are fatigued and difficult to catch, resting in weird places. Do you believe that the primary catalyst for this is water temperature or the end of spawning activity? Some may say these two coincide, but with the erratic weather, we’ve been having last decade, water temperatures are all over the place through May and June. How long does this typically last and how do you target fish during this period?

Same I just can’t make myself throw them but I see how well they produce for people on my waters so I’m tempted to commit.

W Why is this exactly?

No I have the reg cranking rod - 7’2” medium heavy mod fast. Up to 7/8 oz. Still underpowered?

7 foot two medium heavy moderate fast. 15 pound mono. Would this set up work if I simply switched to fluoro?

On a kayak, I only have so many spots available to store rods, and therefore try to limit it to four set ups. I don’t currently throw the bladed jig quite as much as some other presentations, however it does seem like people catch a lot of big fish on them. My current set up is too moderate to give me the proper hook-setting power (st Croix victory med heavy moderate fast) and serves as my top water rod so I spool it with 15 pound mono. The combination of stretch/action makes it less than ideal for large single hooks like those found on spinner/bladed jig. I recently broke another Rod that I don’t really use that much and want to replace it, wondering if a dedicated Rod for this application would be wasted and could be put to better use? More importantly, what other presentations could I throw on a spinner bait or bladed jig set up? I would really like to combine this with my top water rod, the big holdup is fluorocarbon and I really do not like throwing braid on casting equipment.

Makes sense. How long can you go with a finesse rod before you start experiencing? Is 610 the sweet spot?

Interesting, so with the longer tip on the 7 foot three rod I would probably experience diminished sensitivity.

I have always used St. Croix legend tournament bass 6 foot 10 medium light extra fast finesse drop shot set up for my Ned rig and tube applications. I recently broke it and I am wondering if I should upgrade to the XL 7’3” version?

What about ST36, do you think the shank is too long?

The popular answer seems to be #1 or 2 ST36, but I’ve heard some say they prefer short shank (ST35.) What do you find to be the advantages/drawbacks of each for these presentations? My first instinct is that longer shanked, larger trebles would offer a superior hook up ratio, but I don’t know if this is accurate. The logic in my mind is the further they are from the large bodied resin bait, the more likely they are to catch only the hooks with no interference from the bait or hooks bouncing off the bait. Is that accurate? What is your preferred size/style/shank length for glides like Chad Shad or Topwater/wake rats?

Yes that is exactly what I’m currently using. Great gloves, extremely lightweight and cooling, my only issues are: The “open palm” is basically a hole that constantly catches on your cork butt. The cuffs are not long enough and leave a gap between your wrist and long sleeve sun shirt giving you a weird band of sun exposure. The worst is probably the overall fit, I got the right size but it over time (not long) they have become very loose and shift around.

Because you have to wash the sunscreen off the palms of your hand afterwards, unless you want the smell of chemicals all over your lures. Have you figured out a way to wash your palms without getting the back of your hands wet? Let me know when you do.

I’m looking for something very thin and lightweight to keep the sun off my hands, as applying sunscreen to the back of your hands is very difficult. In my search, I have found very few of them that don’t have some sort of faux leather/suede or silicone grip on the palm/fingers that makes the gloves extremely cumbersome to fish and tie knots in. Why do they do this? It’s very frustrating, I have now tried two or three different pairs from Amazon that I’ve had to return, I just want ultrathin and full dexterity, like I should barely be able to feel that they’re there. I know they make them for fly fishing, I’m just trying to find a good one.

He holds this opinion on all fishing gear, he’s frugal so he tries to justify it by saying there are no differences in quality which is quite clearly not true. He says my perception of Gamakatsu/Owner hooks is “subjective” or my opinion and I call bogus. I have see Mustad, specifically the Ultra Point Grip Pins that are actually dull and cheap feeling out of the package. Can anyone show me a peer reviewed or official study or any data showing that Gammy, Owner and other premium hooks are in fact superior in quality and sharpness? I feel like it’s easily observable but he’s so stubborn.

Yeah I’m looking at Cast Again, only problem is they use VMC (which are fine) but Secret Lures uses Gammy which are outstanding. I’m torn. Are the actual CA tubes themselves any better? Only advantage I see is 2.75” offering.

He only uses open hooks, refuses to stupid rig

I suppose with the type of heads I buy it becomes sort of an investment as you have to buy them online and in quantity to get free shipping.

Great answer, I think my friend is probably just sit in his ways and would catch an equal number of fish with a quarter ounce, if not more due to fewer snags.

Yeah, that’s the other problem is hanging up. There is a large school of thought that suggests a slower fall triggers more bites as well with bottom contact Baits.

of course. The question is always could I be catching more fish? His number one bait is a tube, which is why he has me curious. He catches a ton of fish on it, but obviously there are multiple variables that could be contributing to this difference. Most notably that he throws it significantly more than me.

for the longest time, I have used a quarter ounce for almost all soft plastic applications from paddle tales to finesse to stupid tubes. My buddy, however, insists that 3/8 is necessary to keep the tube from moving too far and working it properly, especially in current. I’m wondering if there is anything to this, considering the vast majority of the research I’ve done has suggested 1/4 ounce as the most popular and sweet spot for tube weight. He says Zona uses half ounce, I said he fishes lakes, not rivers, so I’m not sure how that applies to the 3 to 5 foot deep river we fish. The bottom line is, there should probably be only one objective answer here as to which is more effective in these conditions. That answer lies in whether or not it truly helps to have more weight to keep the tube from being jerked or swept away from a potential taker?

Are they capable of actually keeping you warm in the winter though? How would you compare those to the fish monkey gloves?

what about fingerless