Wayne P.

"non traditional" colors work well if you have some with you and run out of whatever color you normally use. Otherwise you can use them anytime and any place with the same results as what you normally use. The fish don't care.

I prefer to be prepared for numerous presentations all the time. Conditions and patterns can change from day to day and hour to hour. I don't want to be limited to what I think may work as that may not be the case. I carry enough rigs to cover the best presentations for the specific time of year and body of water. The number can range from 7 to 20 or more. I don't tournament fish much anymore but my enthusiasm for catching in the most efficient manner has not diminished.

The most powerful one you can afford. When I had a 10' jon boat, I used a 24V bow mount foot controlled trolling motor. I put the batteries in the back and ran wires to a front electrical outlet wired for 12V and 24V to plug in the motor and electronics. Any brand is OK, all have their problems. A 36" shaft model is the best fit if you can find one-I used an OMC and still do on my 12' jon wired the same way.

Yes, a full face model with ski type jacket with a collar that zips up. A more expensive helment with adjustable vents to prevent fogging helps too especially if you wear glasses.

It has become a go-to presentation for deep bass at Lake Fork on humps and road beds. I have used the large flutter spoons there and they work quite well. I do prefer to change out the factory hooks to a smaller wire of the same size with a skirt of white or white/chart. The smaller wire hooks make penetration easier and sometimes are weak enough to bend if hung up. The skirt also attracts the bar fish which can be a good thing to excite nearby bass.

What is the definition of "assault weapons" in MN?

Well, you doomed your trip by not being prepared with the wacky rig, ;D The fall transition has the whole food chain messed up, it will get better after all that settles down. The wind will speed up the process some. As far a the shad migrating into the coves, I have never seen that type of behavior at Briery Creek based on time of year. The only times I have seen it is prespawn when there was a heavy warm rain that raised the water temp up significantly or during the warm months when there is a heavy cool rain that cools the water down significantly. I don't think the lake is large enough for that like it happens on large bodies of water.

Silver Buddys are still being made but not in the original location. They are being made in Florida (according to the new package). The original inventor has them back in production since his son died that was operating the business and the business was down for a while. The newer ones have salt water type hooks on them. The silver color is the only ones I have seen lately being available. I prefer the gold. I have about 75 of the 1/4 oz silver ones. Most of the Silver Buddy practitioners prefer the 1/2 oz. Do a web search for Silver Buddy and you will find several retailers the carry them. http://www.silverbuddy.com/

Probably all of the hollow body swimbaits with a weighted hook will be in that range. The Fathead, Money Minnow, Bass Magic, Basstrix, etc.

A trophy mount in any species is an individual decision. It might be a 4" bluegill for a kid's first fish, at 5# bass for someone's first big fish, a spike buck for someone's first deer kill. There are no "rules" or "standards" for ones accomplishments.

I have some of their spinnerbaits and buzzbaits. The changeable/removeable rear blades is a good idea, but in function they are no better or worse than any other of the same type lures. I rarely even use them anymore.

The super lines cannot groove quality rod guides since the material is basically plastic (Gel Spun Polypropylene). Polyproylene is a thermoplastic polymer. Those that fish in muddy water a lot will get sand (which in most areas is silica (silicon dioxide, or SiO2) particles imbedded in the fibers and that is what will damage the guide /inserts since the silica is as hard or harder than the guide material. Some may experience what they think is line damaged rod guides but more likely those cases are a result of the rod being dropped or struck onto a hard surface which will crack the fragile guide inserts.

The bass don't hibernate. Their metabolizm just slows down as the water gets colder and they don't use as many calories to move about so they don't need to eat as much or as often as when the water is warmer. When the water surface is frozen or close to it, they are usually on or near the bottom where the water is the warmest of the water column. Bottom bouncing lures will take them. My most productive lure for that type of fishing is a Silver Buddy.

I got the flu shot about a week ago. My symptoms were pain and anguish from the pre-shot thoughts. I HATE NEEDLES !!!!!!! Yes, I know I'm a wimp :'(

I have and will use the "combo for hauling in the biggins" which is a BPS 6'6" medium heavy Pro Qualifier spinning rod with a size 30 Pro Qualifier spinning reel spooled with #30 Stren Super Braid and a 4' leader of #20 XPS Fluorocarbon tied on to a 2/0 Gammy Octopus Hook with a Zoom finesse worm rigged weedless wacky style. Well, that is if bass between 9# and 11# are considered "biggins"

I think you are right, late Winter/early Spring is when I was doing my tests (at your lake if my memory is correct). I didn't try the exposed point set up with the straws. With the shrink tubing, you could probably use a little piece for a whole bag of worms.

Its missing one of the most observed items, wearing camoflage no matter what time of year it is.

Are the straws the red ones? They were the least fragile of the ones I tried.

I had to get software to download pictures from the Razr phone to my XP computer (Handset Manager by Mobile Action Technology Inc.). When I got a couple of Vista computers, the software would not work it them and there is no Vista version of it either. I still have to use the XP machine.

BassHound, I tried the plastic straws from several fast food places and all of them were too brittle to last even for one hook set. That is how I eventually came up with the electrical shrink tubing method.

Every bass I have caught over #9 has come on a weedless wacky rigged finesse worm.

I just got back from an ATV/Golf Cart repair/sales dealer. There are no 12V solenoids for electric golf carts, most are at least 36V. Some are available for gas carts with continuous duty coils but I couldn't get the specs on those. The parts dept suggested a solenoid for an electric winch like those used on ATV's. There are two kinds with one being waterproof for about $90 and another non-waterproof for about $30. After checking the specs for the wenches, I ordered two of the non-waterproof models. A #2000 winch draws over 150 amps under full load so the contacts for those is plenty heavy duty for a trolling motor and the coil is continuous duty. It is listed under parts for Warn Winches.

I've tried the split ring and O ring for Senkos. I didn't like either one. The electrical shrink tubing works much better and allows for a perpendicular hook position for a better hook-up ratio or a parallel hook position.

Thanks Team-Dougherty, I'll be ready if the coil fails. I didn't consider the duty rating of the coil, I was only thinking of the amp capacity of the contacts. When I discussed my application at the auto supply store, wire size for the activation circuit was the only topic. Being a small guage (16 was suggested) ment low amp draw. I used 12 guage. Next purchase will be a golf cart solenoid. edited: I'm going to run the auto version that I have now to see how long it will last and then swap to the golf cart version if I experience a failure. I like the golf cart version better as the negative side of the control circuit is a terminal instead of a grounding frame like the auto version so a remote location can be utilized. Just a single wire quick disconnect for that change.

Another positive attribute is parts. Other than $12 for the solenoid, I only had to obtain one 10-32 nut for the activation circuit connection at the solenoid and a short piece of wire from the positive battery post to the solenoid post (already had that), some #12 wire for the Big Foot switch I already had, the quick disconnect plug (like a two wire version of a 4 wire flat trailer electrical hookup) and some wire terminals and splices. The wing nut on the negative battery post was switched with the solenoid post nut so that was a non purchase. The negative battery post wing nut wouldn't fit within the space of the solenoid frame connection anyway. I plan on using two transom mounted electric motors along with a bow electric on my next setup. This will make the wiring a lot easier and cheaper with virtually no voltage loss due to wire resistance.