Spider

I have the funds earmarked and will purchase one of these suggested rods soon. I have one more question, I have narrowed it down to ether the St. Croix Avid or the Shimano Zodias. My question is, the Shimano Zodias has an EVA handle, doesn't this dampen sensitivity? Or is EVA better now? Thank you

Heard them talk about the Expride all the time, never heard them talk about the Shimano Zodias. will look into this. Thank you.

Appreciated!

I will look and see if I can get a hand on one here local. And appreciate the tip on the longer rod, It didn't dawn on me that moving to a stiffer rod may decrease casting distance. Thank you.

Need advice. I have read all the "best rods" threads. some were very old and most though helpful didn't cover what I needed. I have two Fury rods the FR 703 c and the FR704 c, recommended here on this site. I find them good all purpose rods but the fr 703 c MH/F feels like a medium rod and the FR 704 c feels like a MH/MF and not quite a fast action rod, and I wouldn't call them the most sensitive ether. I also own a G Loomis gl2 wjr 855 7'1" H/F, Duckett Ghost 6'8" MH/F, Falcon BuCoo 7'2" MH/MF and a bunch of other cheaper rods. I'm looking to move up, but don't have anyplace local I can go to to check out other rods first hand so would have to order online. I mostly fish bottom contact t-rigs with a 1/4 oz weight and 6" to 7.5" worms. I think the rod I'm looking for is a MH 10-20 lb extra fast? in or about the $200.00 range. I would like it to be light and from 6'8" to 7' in length and sensitive "I know that this is subjective and your own personal opinion". Any help would be much appreciated.

@OP Take this with a grain of salt. This is just my opinion, and due to the bathtub clear water, and severely pressured lakes I fish. "I can see 12 feet down on some days, a Quagga "Spelling?" mussel lake". It depends on the lakes you fish, time of year, how much pressure and technique you are using. I fish a lot of slow bottom baits, with these, the fish have more time to look closely at the presentation. So a leader is a must. I won't get a single bite without one. And this may be how fast or slow the worm falls If fishing top water, a mono leader helps with shock and to keep the hooks from tangling on walking baits. On crank baits i rarely use a leader, but will use a moderate action rod. If fishing thick brush, or cloudy water I don't feel the need for a leader. This is just my experience, so don't take it as Gospel. Spider.

Personally, if you are comfortable with braid, stick with it and add a fluorocarbon leader like Sunline Sniper or equivalent. and back off the drag a little. Just my opinion.

As a native San Diego fisherman, I can tell you that the lakes here are highly pressured. Add to that that most of the lakes I fish are very clear making fish skittish. Pressured fish techniques are a must here. There are a couple of lakes that have dingy water but are just as pressured. I pull fish most times I go fishing, but one or two are the normal, though some days I get skunked, others I pull runts one after the other. I can understand the op's friends thinking, if he came here thinking he would catch vast numbers of fish. That would not be a normal day here.

I won't blame anyone here if I fail. It's part of the learning curve, and one of the reasons I like fishing so much. It looks like time to break out the spinning gear for the light stuff, and use the bait caster for the bigger stuff. I appreciate all that chimed in. And look forward to that sensitivity test. From what I have read, fluorocarbon is twice as dense as mono which transmits feel better. If this is wrong I apologize.

Great tip, TUVM.

It's looking like Tatsu is the way to go. Though there is a lot to like about Snipers abrasion resistance. Looks like it's time to save some coin. Thank you.

Exactly the same here, but I seem to feel the bites better this way also. Plus you have the advantage of not having to switch the rod back and forth as much. I just wish they made more Left Hand salt water reels.

Yeah, you are correct. I should have included the reel and rod in my post. Lew's LFS Speed Spool SSG1HL, mag setting half way. Dobyns FR 703C 1/8 to 1/4 oz weights. 10# Sun Line Sniper. KVD line and lure conditioner. I viewed the video and saw a couple of things I need to correct. Thank you again for your input.

I do agree with you and understand my limitations, which is why I started out with cheaper brands of fluorocarbon, to practice with "I know that was not a great decision, which is what I'm trying to rectify here". Yes it has been expensive so far. I would not be able to afford to start out with a line like Tatsu at over $50.00 for 200 yards given my level of experience. I also read someplace Tatsu also had a lot of stretch? which I was worried about. I did not take your comment as anything but helpful. The thing is, I can feel every detail of the bottom with fluorocarbon, every rock, branch, sandy bottom and every small bite. So feel it is an advantage. Thank you all for your reply's, and Glen, I will view that video!

Thank you, I was wondering how braid might effect casting. The thing is, I have spent some pretty good cash trying different lines. I would like to not repeat this for obvious reasons.

First I apologize if this has been answered, I did use search. I like the slack line sensitivity of fluorocarbon for bottom fishing, but. I am having issues with bird nests on my bait caster, I am a long time fisherman but only recently started using bait casters. I have watched all the videos and adjusted my bait caster properly but know some of this will improve with more practice. In one of the videos I watched here, one pro says to fill the spool with half Dacron/braid to lighten the spool? I guess that is because fluorocarbon weighs more? Also its cheaper than filling the whole spool with expensive line? Fluorocarbons I have used, Red Label, InvizX "Didn't like the stretch". AbrazX, P-Line fluorocarbon, Berkley Vanish "Bad line IMHO" and Sunline Sniper "My favorite so far". All in 10# test. Can't justify purchasing Tatsu at this time. My questions are, do you use mono or Dacron as backing, or just fill it up with fluorocarbon. And any tips you might have to make the fluorocarbon more manageable. I have tried KVD L&L. This is for pretty light lures, which could be why I am having issues. I'm just wondering what you all think. Thank you.

I'm happy for you. For that deal you can't go wrong. I find my Dobyns rod to be an amazing rod/deal.

I own the Dobyns FR 703C and love it, It is rated med heavy but feels closer to a Medium rating. I have been using it for light T-Rigs and it is doing wonderful. It is a very light rod with good sensitivity and good back bone. I love it for Flukes, weightless worms and light t-rigs. I do not own the 734c so can't comment on that. Hope this helps.

I have used all three, and find red label to be ok entry level, main line. AbrazX has good abrasion strength but is a bit wiry for my taste. InvizX is way too stretchy, I feel. InvizX also has broken on me too often "I fish a lot of rock" and I have lost confidence in it. Also InvezX doesn't seem to like the Palomar knot, no matter how careful you tie it. The SDJam Knot worked better. I did not have these issues with Red Label. It feels like good mid level line, with good abrasion resistance and thin diameter.

This is from a article I read here. It would appear that fluorocarbon stretches about the same as mono, some brands more.

@ MikeD I agree with you 100% Fluorocarbon does have advantages, one is it is less visible in water, but you will find no good data to prove fish really care if something is hanging off the end of the bait. Fluorocarbon has as much stretch than mono. Some brands like Invizx even more than mono. Fluorocarbon does transmit feeling better due to it's density, but in the reverse, doesn't that mean the fish can feel you also? Braid Floats, very visible, makes noise going over reeds and wood "Sawing sound?" but fish don't seem to care. The 8 layer braid is less noisy though. Mono is more visible to bass but they don't seem to notice? Mono has stretch, so you don't feel everything as well as Fluorocarbon, but nether does the fish. Just reel in the slack and set the hook. Mono floats, so it's ideal for top water presentations and treble hooked baits. Fish are dumb, don't overthink this more than it needs to be. Use what you like.

O.P. Only you can answer this question. You will need to try some different lines and decide which you like best. Before we go down the dark road of this line vs that line. When I started fishing I used DuPont Magnathin. Yeah my age is showing. I be leaved at the time is was less visible to the fish, Ya I know. I caught fish, even though the stretch was enormous on that line. I fish mostly Fluorocarbon now, but decided to spool up one of my bait casters with Berkley Big Game last week. You know what, the next day I caught just as many fish? On a gin clear lake by home! I have seen people take big fish on 50# braid with no leader, on crystal clear lakes on a sunny day. Fishes brains are very little after all, as long as you are presenting the bait properly they will bite it I guess what I am trying to say is, don't buy into what others are saying, fish what you like. After all it is your mini vacation, play it like you want to.

For light work I use a Shimano 2500 "Relatively small reel". The most important things to consider are that it is not too heavy "Fatigue" and that it has a good drag system. The second I consider the most important. The President reel you mention is also a good choice. GL

Another 10# fluorocarbon user here, only thing to add is to use line conditioner for better results.

I didn't see this mentioned, but with lighter pound line like 20# you need to back off the drag a little or when you set the hook the thin diameter line will dig into itself. This is a guaranteed backlash every time, 20# will dig into itself easy. I would not recommend lighter than 30# braid on a bait casting reel.