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badgerboyng

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Everything posted by badgerboyng

  1. I also just got a Chronarch MGL, so I'm interested in what you guys are talking about. However, I'm not mechanical at all and I have no idea what you guys are saying to oil... Where is the "break drum" and "SVS ring"? There's an exterior dial on the palming side, an internal area with the break pins, and where do I put the oil? Sorry I'm such a newbie!
  2. If you're in Wisconsin, you cannot fish for bass (even if you're releasing them) until the first Saturday of May (next weekend). Make sure you have a fishing license too!
  3. I think it's best to stick to 3 trailers for swim jigs. A chunk, a craw/menace (something that flaps), and a small swimbait: For cold water / pre-spawn I use any sort of chunk as a trailer... choose your favorite brand. I want minimal action at this time. For the spawn, upgrade to something with more action. For me, either a 5" grub or a Rage Menace. Once the bluegill spawn, I'll switch over to a swimbait style trailer, such as a RI Skinny Dipper.. the Eco Pro will work too, choose whatever brand you want. In the heat of summer, I usually go back to the rage menace and reel it back slowly near the bottom, so it looks like a crawfish. I also throw it into heavy cover, and I'll use a rage menace for that as well.
  4. Extra fast tips bend near the tip, where the rod is relatively light - thus, extra fast tips are soft and allow you to cast light/weightless lures well. On the other hand, mod-fast, moderate, and slow tapers bend further down into the blank, closer to the handle. This means that slower action rods bend further into the rod's "backbone" which has two effects: 1) it makes the tip more stiff, which makes it more difficult to cast light lures but helps the rod load heavy weights well; 2) causes the rod to bend more when under load (i.e. when a fish is on). So it can be confusing, but essentially extra fast tapers load light lures better, and moderate/slow tapers load the fish better. However, some people like that extra fast rods transition to a stiff backbone quickly, as it allows them to easily guide the fish away from cover, whereas with a slow rod, the fish can load the rod so deeply down the blank that it may be difficult to rip the fish away from cover. For your purposes, I recommend an extra fast tip.
  5. I've always wondered why X-fast tips don't do well with heavier lures. That makes sense though! X-fast rods bend near the relatively weak tip section, compared to mod-fast rods, which bend pretty deep into the rod's "backbone".
  6. Wow an 1/8oz jig is pretty light. It's impressive that it can cast well with that little weight. What's the heaviest jig weight that you're comfortable throwing on this rod (weight before adding a trailer)? Thanks for the input!
  7. Do you own that rod? If so, is the tip pretty soft, relative to most X-fast rods?
  8. I started a thread similar to this a few months ago to decide on a rod for using swim jigs in heavy cover. I ended up getting a 844c MBR IMX, which I have paired with 50lb braid for frogs and heavy cover swim jigs. Now I'm looking for a rod that I can use to throw 1/4oz - 3/8oz light wire swim jigs (with trailers added it's more like 1/2-5/8oz) in open water / weed lines as a search bait and for catching smallies. If possible, I would also like to use this rod for other finesse jigs, dragging t-rigged jelly worms, and spinnerbaits. Those are a lot of techniques, but the primary purpose of the rod is to throw swim jigs. I'll pair it with 14lb fluoro, which makes me lean towards X-Fast rods (taking line stretch into account). I am able to get St Croix Avid X, LTB, and Loomis IMX pro rods all for a substantial discount, so I would appreciate it if the recommendations stayed within those offerings. I'm considering the LTB finesse swim jig rod (7'1 MH X-fast), which claims to have a specially designed "light and sensitive tip." I haven't seen one in person, so I don't know if the tip truly has some softness to it. I would like a tip that loads easily to cast far, but that loads up really fast. As for the IMX pros, the 853c JWR is also a 7'1 MH X-fast, but I have no idea how stiff that tip is either. Lastly, I could always go with a cheap 7' MH Fast avid x, but I would be giving up some sensitivity... Although, I suppose sensitivity might not be so crucial with a moving bait. Anyone have experience with the LTB or IMX pro rods that I mentioned? Any recommendations within those lines? Thanks
  9. This thread is hilarious! But in all seriousness, here's what I do: 1) stick to a set budget for general lures and whatnot that you agree on with your wife. This is the money that you can spend without feeling guilty 2) if you want an expensive new rod, reel, or other substantially expensive item... It's okay to buy it. However! My rule is that if anything costs a substantial amount of money, I will write down what it is and why I want it. Then I'll give it three months or more, and then I'll re-read my reasoning and decide whether or not I still really want it. Believe me, it is sooo hard to wait a few months to make the purchase, but I can't tell you how many times I've changed my mind during that time. If you give it some time and still really want it, then by all means go buy it! No need to feel guilty about buying something that you've put a lot of thought into and that you know you will use. 3) If you still feel guilty or need to spend more money after the first 2 steps, then go out and do some side jobs to earn some extra cash! I used to detail clean cars for $80 a pop... so if I wanted a new rod, I could work hard to clean a few cars and then I'd be able to spend my money happily, knowing I earned it for myself. Everyone has a skill that they can use to make money on the side. My dad, for example, creates cool backyard decorations out of wooden pallets that he gets for free from work, and he sells it for some extra cash! Be creative! Hope this helps!
  10. One solid rod and reel is really all you need at this point. As for how many combos you'll "need" to get eventually... well that depends on a few things: do you plan on fishing alone from a bank or a boat, fish intensely with a partner multiple times per week, compete in tournaments with a serious chance at winning one, or something else? This could end up being a very long post, but I'll keep it short. Here's my advice. I don't know how many combos you have right now, so I'll assume you are starting from scratch. First, decide whether you're more into finesse, light line, natural presentations (senkos, tubes, Ned rigs, flukes, etc) or heavier stuff (spinner baits, topwater, pitching, etc). Then either get a nice spinning rod and reel and spend a year focusing on mastering a few finesse presentations, or buy a nice baitcasting combo and focus on mastering a few heavier baits. You're young, and you have a lot of time to learn. Eventually you'll learn how to effectively fish tons of baits, but for now try to focus solely on mastering one combo and a few baits. Trust me on this - focusing on just a few baits will not make you a worse fisherman - do not fall into the bait monkey trap. Gain a ton of confidence in a few baits and master your feel/presentation, and you will be far more successful than your friends who go out and buy 3 combos and drop $200 on lures right away, because those people won't master the art. Don't jump the gun. However... Once you master a handful of "confidence baits" and are extremely comfortable with either casting or spinning gear, it's time to branch out and buy one more combo. After you master that one, buy one more. Once you have 3 rods, I firmly believe you will be able to succeed in tournaments (that is IF you master your presentation and feel and confidence along the way). For those 3 combos, here is what I would recomend: One spinning rod for finesse presentations (medium power, fast or extra fast action), one casting rod for working heavy cover (heavy power, fast action, some flex to the tip) with frogs, swim jigs, pitching lures, etc, and one rod for general use... choose this last rod wisely. If you end up being more into treble hook baits (jerkbaits and crankbaits), then get a medium or medium heavy power rod with a moderate or moderate-fast action (this rod doesn't have to be quite as sensitive as the others). On the other hand, if you end up being more into jigs, worms, plastics, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, etc, then skip the moderate action rod and get a medium heavy power rod with a fast or extra-fast action (get the highest quality rod you can afford if you go this route, as sensitivity is key). I know that's a lot, but hopefully this advice will point you in the right direction for years to come. Just remember to take it slow, master a few baits/presentations at a time, and eventually you might want three combos: one spinning, one medium heavy casting (moderate for crankbaits, fast for jigs/worms), and one heavy rod for working heavy cover. Hope this helps!
  11. Interesting concept... this could work for people who don't have livewells built into their boats. However, I can think of two potential downfalls right away: 1) is there a risk of the bass jumping out / escaping since there's no top? 2) What do you do when you need to engage the large motor and fly over to the next fishing spot or to the weigh in (assuming this is for tournament use)? I don't think it would be stable at fast speeds, and I can't imagine you putting it in the boat while you move, since it has holes. Thoughts?
  12. Does anyone here have experience with the 7'1 MH X-Fast St Croix rod (swim jig finesse) that has been mentioned in this thread? I have never felt one, but it seems like it would be really stiff, since it's a St Croix MH with an x-fast tip... However, as @A-Jay mentioned, St Croix describes it as having a very "light and sensitive tip"... Does this mean it has a relatively soft tip that allows it to cast lighter baits far and has more flex on the retrieve? Keep in mind he'll be using fluorocarbon, which has some stretch to it. I ask because this is one of the OP's top choices, and it seems like the decision is going to come down to the tip. I've always been confused about what the tip is like on this particular rod, since I haven't ever seen one in person.
  13. 1/4oz light wire when up shallow around the spawn or working docks, 3/8oz heavy or light wire when working weed edges, and 3/8oz light wire when slow rolling over the bottom. When going straight into weeds or pads, I'll use a 3/8 or 1/2oz heavy wire. I use Lethal Weapon swim jigs. Lethal Weapon II are light wire, and Lethal Weapon IV are heavy wire.
  14. I would recommend looking at a few St Croix rods. The mojo bass pitching/light flipping rod is 7'6 MH mod-fast action. Since it's a St Croix, it's going to be more like a heavy power rod. It's also only $140. Seems to match all of your requirements! They also have a flipping rod that's 7'11 Heavy mod-fast for $150.
  15. The Rage menace is without a doubt one of the best swim jig trailers. Choose a color that matches the jig and you're going to catch fish with it. In the past, RW has even said that the only bait he's used that out produced live bait was a weightless T-rigged menace. Personally, it's my favorite Rage tail product.
  16. This year, I would like to focus on mastering swim jigs. I feel like not many people throw this bait, but it seems effective for those who do. Plus it's versatile. I'm going to use them for smallmouth in WI, both in rivers and on Lake Michigan. I might use them for largemouth too. I'm planning on using 1/4oz - 3/8oz swim jigs with rage menace trailers or Keitechs. So, do I cast it out and burn it back immediately? Let it sink and reel it back very slowly? What's the best retrieve? Any tips or tricks on how to use a swim jig most effectively would be greatly appreciated.
  17. @therivermonster I was just about to refer him to your post
  18. @therivermonster Thank you for your thoughtful response!
  19. In regard to the spinning rod, do you recommend the Avid because it's better than the IMX, or is it because you think it's a good idea for me to try one rod from each company? If I were to choose a G Loomis spinning rod for tubes, grubs, wacky rigged senkos, and Ned rigs, which rod would you recommend? After looking around the forum for posts that might've already answered my question, I noticed you said the PR844S was you favorite smallmouth rod. Would you recommend that, or is the tip too soft for what I intend to use it for? If you recommend a different rod, which power and action? Sorry for asking so many questions, but I know you're a smallmouth guy and I can tell you know a lot about G Loomis rods. I might as well ask you now while I have the chance. Thanks
  20. Thanks for the replies, everyone. I'll get an IMX 844C, it sounds like an amazing rod. As for the spinning rod, I still have to decide between an Avid X and IMX, but I don't think I can go wrong either way. Thanks again.
  21. If you have been fishing for smallmouth for a while, you probably won't learn much from this book that you didn't already know. It doesn't go into depth on any advanced topics. Instead, it focuses on tried and true techniques, such as slowly reeling in grubs and hair jigs. The beauty of this book, however, is the simplicity of the author's techniques. In a fishing market that is saturated with "cutting edge" lures and specialized equipment, it's refreshing to read such a simple, classic approach. The lures discussed in this book are timeless. The author offers great suggestions for lure color, which I found to be very helpful. He also talks about the go-to structure that always seems to hold smallies. I would recommend this book, but just know that, after reading it, you'll probably think "Man that book is a classic. Reminded me of the good ole' days" rather than "I just learned 20 new techniques that are guaranteed to catch huge bass!"
  22. Just to clarify, you are both recommending the 7' Heavy Mag Bass? It's rated for 1/4-1oz lures, so I think it will work for swimjigs and pitching. I'm also going to get a spinning rod for tubes, grubs, small worms, Ned rigs, and wacky rigged senkos, primarily used for smallmouth. I was going to get an Avid X 6'8 Medium X-Fast, but based on this thread, it seems like the IMX is superior. What's a better choice for that, the 802s JWR (6'8 medium x-fast), or the 803s (medium heavy)?
  23. What's the difference between the classic IMX and the MAG IMX? Also, is a 3 power, which is listed as medium heavy, powerful enough for pitching? Or is a 4 (heavy) power better?
  24. I want to get a rod for swim jigs (1/4oz, 3/8oz, plus trailer) and for pitching jigs into cover and weeds. I am very familiar with the St Croix rating system, and I think a 7' MH Fast Avid X would be a good choice. St Croix's MH is very powerful. However, I am completely lost when it comes to G Loomis. Their website is pretty unhelpful... but from what I hear, the IMX is a much better rod. What are your thoughts on an IMX versus an Avid X? Also, which specific rod (power, action, length, model #) would you recommend for me? Due to a very special circumstance, I am able to get a St Croix Avid X or a G Loomis IMX casting rod at a substantial discount. Both rods would be the same price. So please do not recommend anything other than an Avid X or IMX, and please do not base your recommendation on price.
  25. I never thought about using heavier braid to avoid line digging, but it makes sense. Thanks a lot for the tip! @therivermonster I haven't heard of that knot before. I would greatly appreciate pictures of the knot in the guides. @Poolshark I am also considering the 7' MH Fast rod... Since you have both rods, which one would you recommend for pitching? I talked to a St Croix worker the other day and he said the 7'4 froggin rod would be way more versatile. What's your opinion? So I'll definitely be getting heavy braid for frogging. Do you guys recommend using swim jigs with straight braid, or is a fluoro leader standard for swim jigs?

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