Boomstick

Key word here is "probably"

I've hear the bass fishing at squam lake is really good! One of these days, I'll get out there and check it out myself.

I haven't been able to fish in a while -- basically too tired from chemo (I get to the lake and fall asleep), but the temperature has dropped into the low 70s for the past several days. I'd estimate fall fishing tactics will apply in only a couple weeks from now.

Yeah exactly. Like I said, I find it easier to speed up. My "natural rhythm" or whatever makes me find myself cranking faster than I should even on a 6.3:1 reel and I have to conscientiously think about it to slow down.

I like 6.3:1 better if you're ever going to fish a spinnerbait or a crankbait on it. 7 is great for jigs and soft plastics. Personally, I find it easier to speed up than slow down.

I too will recommend a Tatula rod. I got my 6'10" MH/F for $110 and my 7'2" MH/MF glass cranking rod for $120, and for the price, you're not going to beat it. I run Tatula SV reels with both, which are great braking reels.

For ned rigs and dropshots, I use a ML/XF rod. For a shaky head, I would ideally use a M/F rod. Some people use M/F for everything, but to me M/F seems a little bit stiff unless you're catching daily 10 pounders or whatever. Of course, a ML that runs on the light side is going to be too light as well. My St. Croix Avid X 6'9" ML/XF, which may be slightly on the heavier side is just about perfect, so if you get your hands on one, you can use that as a basepoint.

For the baits you described, a M/F rod should do -- of course some M/F rods are more like MH/F, for example the Fenwick HMG is easily a MH/F rod, a true M/F rod will be rated from 6-12 or 6-14lb line or something like that. I've been recommended the Major Craft Nanoace rod which isn't too terribly expensive and is a true M/F rod, which is on my wishlist.

7ft mh/f isn't great for a crankbait and you can forget about finesse. Then again, I wouldn't try to throw all of those on the same rod to begin with. I run a 6'10" MH/F for jigs, frogs and soft plastics, 7'2" MH/MF glass cranking rod for moving baits and a 6'9" ML/XF rod for finesse.

Braid actually knots much tigher, and is much harder to pull out a bird's nest than it is with thicker mono and flurocarbon lines. I would not recommend going to braid on a baitcaster for a beginner, and even as someone who got casting down pretty well, I still prefer going straight mono or fluoro on my baitcasters whenever possible. Obviously there are some situations that require braid -- like fishing a hollow body frog for example. I wouldn't go below 30lbs personally. 40lbs is much better at not digging into itself.

Fluorocarbon will give you better action, but you should be fine to use mono.

Well first, I personally find that it's easier for me to change lures on a baitcaster. It's also much better for lures that you cast a lot, so I would definitely go that way. I will also second what Burrows said about going with a 6'9" - 6'10" rod, and I also agree that spending around $100 on a rod and a reel is a good value point . I would probably go with a medium fast rod which can do weightless texas rigs, 3/8oz spinnerbaits and square bills and run 12lb line (mono or fluro if you are comfortable tying uni knots).

I have this, it seems to be fairly accurate and it fits in my pocket. https://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Mini-Digital-Scale-25lb/dp/B006W9LB88/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1533653167&sr=8-11&keywords=rapala+scale#customerReviews

My spinning setup is a St Croix Avid X 6'9" ML/XF rod paired with a Daiwa BG 2000 reel. It's a well balanced combo.

The Fuego CT is a price point that helps when you're on a budget. I haven't actually used them but I hear they're still very good.

It will work but if you want to upgrade, try a ML/XF rod and a 1/15oz jighead.

I couldn't possibly disagree with that more. The T-wing system actually works great and does keep the reel from spooling to one side much better than my reels without it do. My understanding is that a lot of people who don't have the extra money to spend and never used it blindingly bash it because they don't understand it.

Some of them aren't, but I thought the Supreme XT was decent looking. How about a Tatula CT maybe?

Look at the Pflueger Supreme XT casting reels. I got one at a great price for my youngest son, and was quite surprised by it. They're as light as the Curado 70, hold the like of the Curado K and I honestly like the brakes a little bit better than the Curado K.

I have on a spinning reel with 15lb braid. The braid hit rocks and had no chance.

Nice fish, both of them! Grats!

My other hobby is guitar, although between everything going on, I don't get to play as much as I used to. I also like camping and hiking trails. I hate the winter though. I thought about trying ice fishing, but I don't tolerate the cold very well, and this year I'm on chemo so my limbs go numb if it's below 65 or so. My youngest son plays travel hockey and that kept me busy last winter.

It's my life goal to make a water balloon catapult that I can aim at jet skiers. Or maybe a remote control "water balloon bomber" helicopter.

Definitely the rod. The line is also equally important. You want a nice stout rod with a fast tip so you can really get those fish out from heavy cover. As far as the reel, the ratio doesn't really matter although a faster reel is nice to have. Most decent reels will have enough power as most have at least 10lbs drag these days. An aluminum framed reel is preferred by many, but I don't believe is an absolute must.

I have thrown some T-rigs around lily pads and between them. Be sure to use some 40lb or heavier braid though!