Boomstick

I can't find anything for the original UHD. There is one for the Echomap Plus 73sv, which I think is the same but I'm not 100% sure. Your best bet is probably to call Garmin directly. On a side note, I stopped taking the display unit out of the base after having some pins break off. In my case, the problem was made worse by a sun shade but I've heard others who have the same problem without the sun shade. But given how it's on a kayak, it's not a big deal to leave it in the base all the time. If you do decide to upgrade, the GT56 transducer is a significant upgrade over the GT54 in both clarity and range, and the 93sv UHD2 has a few more pixels so you can enjoy the added range and clariyty.

Well I'd probably pay the ticket rather than try to fight it, as that could cost more - then I would look to move to another town so I'm not paying that same police department a dollar since they want to play that way apparently.

Doesn't sound fun. I get very minor kidney stones that kind of burns when I pee a little and I have to pee a little bit every 5 minutes until I drink a gallon or so water and it passes. I initially didn't even realize what it actually was, and my doctors didn't believe I never had a kidney stone based on my current condition of my kidneys... But I hear they can be really painful.

So this year marks year three of camping and watching fireworks from my kayak. Here's a short clip of the fireworks.

Yeah I don't want to go smaller. It's usually two of us. If my oldest son comes, he does have his own 3 person tent (cause I snore) but if he ends up in the tent with us, he still fits in a 6 person. REI has a CORE Equipment 6 person that looks similar to my old Columbia, so that's a fairly safe bet. But I'm half considering going with a Canvas tent.

Good news is I do have another spinning rod which I often leave at home but it will throw the same things fine, maybe even better to be honest. The Tatula Elite ML/F runs on the lighter side - I got it to throw 1/16 ned rigs further. There is a shore spot I fish a lot and my Acid X ML/XF couldn’t quite cast to where the bass usually hang out. And I’m pretty sure it’s still under warranty too

So I’ve been camping on Lake Bomoseen, VT all week, but the devil controls the weather up here, we got two cold days where it rained from noon until 9am the next morning and one afternoon of heavy thunderstorms. To make it worse my tent started leaking a ton of water and our sleeping gear all got soaked. We made it out on the kayaks three days. On Tuesday, I got two decent smallies and two rock bass. The first smallie was in around 16-20ft of water off the shore on a jig and the other three fish were in about a foot of water on a crankbait. We decided to continue to the north side of the lake and check out Rabbit Island and the surrounding areas - some docks and milfoil up there but we didn’t get anything. On Wednesday, we decided to flip the milfoil and lily pads in the more northern part of the lake but didn’t get anything Today, we made our same trek to the point but then went to Neshobe Island. I got a small largemouth on a drop shot and a small rockbass on the crankbait. I got nothing near the island but we tried the shoreline south of the state park launch. Here‘s where we went wrong: it would have obviously been smarter to fish offshore on Tuesday instead of head up north, but it was our first day there and we expected 5 days on the water, so we wanted to explore a bit of a lake that we only ever fished from shore so I can’t really complain. But Wednesday, the surface water temperature was 69-70, just like on Tuesday. We should have did our trek today on Wednesday and today where the temp was 74-75, tried the far northern or southern weedy portions of the lake for largemouth, I bet we’d have fared much better on both days. Oh well. I also broke my Tatula Elite ML/F rod that I was using for a tube. I hit it with a crankbait on the back cast and immediately stopped casting because I knew what I did but it was too late to save the last two guides. Despite all the bad stuff, tent leaking, not sleeping as a result, breaking a rod and not catching as many fish as we got from shore here in 2019, overall I’m in a far better mood now than I was the past few months. More trips to come… I live for this

Well I want to pay them a visit sometime no matter what I do, now that I know we have one a hour and a half away. If I decide on another tent, well I just remembered tonight that we broke two forks in our cheap Walmart camp dinnerware set, so if my other kid gets time off, we might have to go out to get plastic forks. I would like to buy a set of nice stainless steel campware.

I didn’t realize this but there is one in Albany. I can hit that, the Dick’s and Field & Stream in one giant store in Latham and the Clifton Park Bass Pro. I was browsing their site and they have what looks like a fairly high end 6 person tent that looks like it may be a good long term replacement option if I go for something similar. I am half considering going for a four season glamping bell tent. Then I can get a kindling burning stove for the winter.l, and I can actually stand up to change clothes in it. Something like this https://a.co/d/09Jp6Bq9

That’s impressive! Even though it’s usually my youngest kid and myself, I need at least a 6 man to hold my clothes for the week. I don’t want to keep that in the car as that gets in the way of fishing when I’m at the boat launch.

So I am camping on Lake Bomoseen and we got a 8 hours of rain Monday and despite spraying my tent down with water sealant my tent leaked and all our sleeping stuff got soaked. My current tent is a discontinued 8 person Columbia. I’ve had it for years and it saw a ton of usage, and it’s definitely better designed than some other common brands I’ve owned that I got maybe two setups out of. I would buy another if it was available. I can do a 6 person tent for my youngest son and I, but the 8 person has been ideal for a week’s worth of clothes and us space wise. I’m looking at two options, one was my prior tent, a Walmart branded bell tent. It leaked a bit of water, I sprayed it with tent sealant and it never leaked again but it started ripping in the front. The other is a Night Cat 8 person tent that has the exhaust port for a small woodstove which might be cool. Anyway wondering if any of you campers have recommendations for tents that hold up.

Frog rods are in particular one rod where I don't see any benefit from a high end rod. You just want the biggest broomstick that can pull them out of anything. Anyway, Daiwa's 7'4" H/F frog blank is perfect for just that. I would personally save some money and go with the Tatula, but there's a Steez model if you really must.

Any MH/F rod will do. The idea is a more moderate rod might reflect off say rocks or stumps, but it doesn't matter if you can't set the hook.

My thought was I might consider the 6'10" ML/XF rod if breaking the tip on the 7'3" is a concern.

10lb would work well in clear water, but 12lb would give a little extra assurance if there's any weeds or rocks, and as others have said it's already the same diameter as 8lb Big Game.

Normally if there's no wind, it casts flawlessly, but in wind I need more brakes because it's impossible to not get a little bit of overrun at times. It actually did pretty good with a 1/4oz popper. I was surprised it cast so flawlessly especially when the wind was gusting.

The correct answer here is both. If I'm throwing a crankbait where I'm trying to throw it max distance, SFS is going to be a better choice as I will actually get much better distance than the Daiwa reel can get with the brakes at 0. However, if I'm throwing a jig, which I may be pitching, skipping or throwing short targeted casts and I don't want to worry about dealing with an occasional bird's nest, Daiwa's mag brakes is a much better choice.

I am not familiar with Phoenix rods, but I have heard they are good. But I am VERY familiar with the Daiwa line. On price point, the Phoenix M1 is roughly on par with the Tatula more than the Tatula Elite, so I would the Tatula Elite to be a step up. Specifically, what rod are you looking at? What are you looking to throw on the rod? Once I know that, I can make some recommendations.

I leant my kid my 6'8" M/XF topwater rod, and that broke on a small weed. Fortunately, it was still under warranty so I got a new one. The replacement is still going strong and I've caught a lot of fish on it. You should see if yours is covered under warranty, that's a pretty good rod with a good power and action and can throw a lot of things. And chances are, the replacement won't break so easily. As for Dobyns, I think you will be a little disappointed with the Fury. I would go with a Sierra 703C which is a much better rod for a little more money. t's also a very useful rod, but has a slower tip so it's really good with treble hooked baits around lighter grass and such while still keeping them pinned - where the St Croix 7'1" M/F is better for soft plastics with a faster tip.

So I have been in need of a faster reel for whopper ploppers for some time now, because fishing them on a 6.3:1 reel actually hurts my hands cranking it so fast. A few years ago, I decided to take the Plueger Patriarch which I have used with 10 or 12lb mono for topwaters and often jerkbaits (because I use them on the same rod) and use that and buy a Tatula 80, but I never got around to it. I finally pulled the trigger and purchased a Tatula 80 a few weeks ago. Now that they have discontinued it, I got a good deal on it, but because of the wind, I hadn't taken that setup out. Yesterday, I got it out a bit - although there was a fair amount of wind so I didn't really get to use it that much. However, this reel threw a 1/4oz popper amazingly. I set the brake to 10 because of the wind and was getting better distance and no birds nests at all. Spooled with 10lb mono. Just thought I'd share.

When going with spinning rods, you will certainly want to go heavy. While you can get away with frogs on a MH casting rod if you're not throwing them over lily pads, spinning rods almost always run lighter than their casting counterparts.

I have the Tatula 6'10" MH/F rod. It's my multi-purpose MH rod. Usually I have jigs and T-rigs on another rod, but I will use it for T-rigs when I need a little more power. The 7'3" is supposed to have a little bit more tip to it, but otherwise be similar.

Back when I had a spinning rod and a casting rod, I used braid on my casting rod. I still use braid on spinning rods because line twist just doesn't exist. The reason was I could change out the leader to something appropriate for what I'm fishing, mono for topwater, or fatter thinner fluorocarbon, or no leader if in heavy cover. I quickly switched to fluorocarbon when I started renting boats (and later bought kayaks). First, I own more reels that can have an appropriate line for each of my uses. But the real kicker is if you are flipping and pitching heavy cover, braid is great, it's strong and sensitive as long as it's tight, plus has no stretch (usually rods with slower tips are good to compensate the lack of stretch honestly). But I frequently fish jigs on the bottom where no matter what you do, your line is going to have a little slack in it frequently as the wind blows you around, and slightly slack fluorocarbon (or even mono) will have some sensitivity to it, where braid at that point has nothing. So yes, fluorocarbon helps me catch more fish in that way. Why fluorocarbon over mono? Well I just changed out my fluorocarbon this year on all of my reels. At minimal, I had 3 seasons on the most recently spooled and I had 4 or 5 on most of them. I can't keep mono in my shed in the winter and have it hold up.

If I was trying to build an arsenal that could throw anything, I would lean towards go with a ML/XF, one that preferably runs a little bit on the heavy side. I have a 6'9" St Croix Avid X and my kid has a Victory 6'10" ML/XF and those are perfect, definitely not quite a medium but on the heavier side of medium light. There is also a Mojo Bass version of the 6'10" Victory. I have a Daiwa Tatula Elite Code Meyer ML/F and that runs a bit lighter, which was what I wanted to throw ned rigs better. When you get into M/F rods, there's finesse mediums and more powerful mediums that are basically on par with their casting variants. And to make things even more confusing sometimes the same brand offers both variants, sometimes in the same line of rods, one example is the St Croix The Victory 7'1 M/F is a heavier rod but the 7'3" is a finesse medium. The line rating or lure rating usually tells you which is which, with the St Croix it's the lure weight rating. I have a Daiwa Tatula Elite Brent Ehrler dropshot rod that fits the finesse medium category that is generally my all purpose spinning rod, except it doesn't cast a 1/16oz ned rig nearly as far as my ML rods. But it's also great for shaky heads and weightless senkos and other things that generally prefer a medium rod, but is usually rigged with a drop shot and it has a little more power than a ML rod to pull them up into the boat, and given how many months of the year that's my bread and butter bait, that makes a solid argument to get a finesse M/F rod over a ML/XF. What's better will really depend what you're trying to do.

So here's my personal thoughts on this one. If you're starting out, you're probably fishing mostly from shore. Maybe you rent a kayak, canoe or row boat occasionally, but most of the time you're finding shore spots. In my case, there's very limited areas that have very heavy cover that I can access from shore. Even from boat, those spots are very isolated, so a rod for heavy cover or frogs is something I'd add later. For people down south where the weeds grow year around, Glenn's recommendation of a H/F over a M/F is 100% spot on. It just depends where you live. Having a MH/F and M/F rod have a little bit of overlap, but each have things they do better than the other. Single hook baits like spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, swim jigs, smaller swimbaits, and football or pitching style jigs all work well on a MH/F rod. A M/F rod may not be the #1 rod I'd use for most treble hook baits (besides jerkbaits, the fast tip helps detect bites on twitches), it is still a really good rod to throw anything with treble hooks, especially through grass. You can also throw some single hooked baits on them, they're great for lighter finesse jigs, or throwing weightless soft plastics (if there's not much wind anyway). Smaller spinnerbaits work well on a M/F rod. You can usually go up to 3/8oz, but there's a spot if I fish on a warm day the bass bite stops at 11am and then I throw a 1/4oz or 5/16oz spinnerbait and catch chain pickerel all day. And just to clarify, when I say a M/F casting rod, I do mean one that runs slightly on the heavy side, which is common among bass rods. Something like the St Croix Mojo Bass 7'1" M/F "plastics" rod is perfect. Daiwa M/F rods should work fine here too (among others). Then there is some overlap between them as well. Both rods will throw a Texas rigged soft plastic well. You can decide which rod to use based on factors like what cover you're in, or are you dragging on rocks? If so you may run thicker line with your MH/F rod, so that may be a better choice. And if neither of those are a factor, if it's a bright windy day and you want to try a spinnerbait and a T-rig, then you can use the T-rig on your M/F rod. Or if you want a crankbait or popper and a T-rig, then you can use the MH/F rod with the T-rig. Hope that helps put it into perspective.