rdj735

I run the BPS stuff (synthetic blend) because it goes on sale for $10/gallon occasionally. I bought my boat last year and dumped it into whatever was already in the tank. No ill effects so far.

I run Ti2's on both console and bow. You can wirelessly (through Bluetooth) share both mapping and sonar from one unit to the next. That being said, I experienced quite a bit of lag in loading detailed maps this way, so I don't do it anymore. Also, when I did my own research some time ago, I believe I found that it was not possible to get side imaging through the NMEA network (which I don't have) - I think the only advantage of the network for Ti2 would be for control of other units, VesselView, and an external antenna.

After testing on Guntersville this past weekend, I think I'm getting closer. With a Solas Rubex HR4 (4-blade stainless 21P), I got to 45mph at 5100 rpm (basically same rpm as before, but with 2-mph increase). Noticeably more lift than my Laser II, and also experienced a touch of porpoising for the first time since I've owned the boat. I think raising the motor will both increase my rpm closer to what it should be, and decrease porpoising. Will be a bit before I can raise it, but will post with results once I can.

Just an update for those who are interested. I was finally able to get my boat back from the shop. However, of the the three "extra" things I'd asked for (new prop, new impeller, raise motor two positions), the only thing they did was the prop. The impeller was fine - I just thought it was a good time to replace, since the lower unit was already off. However, I'm worried that a 4-blade stainless in the lowest position is gonna make for a wild ride, pushing the boat pretty far out of the water at WOT. I'm headed to Guntersville for the weekend, so we'll see...

Yeah, definitely overpropped - only turning about 5200rpm with motor in lowest position. As I'd mentioned, I had some advice on how to get it running optimally, but most people's recommendations are based on the newer 4-stroke Mercs, which have a recommended max RPM a few hundred higher than mine, so I'm a bit nervous about blindly making that prop purchase. In a recent turn of events, however, I was making a long run in rough water during a tourney last weekend, and a submerged log wedged between the prop and cavitation plate, breaking the flange, dinging the prop, and (at least somewhat) spinning the hub. Insurance so far has seemed willing to compensate for all damages, so I may have several opportunities for change coming up soon.

I do not have a jackplate - it is mounted directly. Also, I'm below max RPM at around 5.2k/43 mph. Your thoughts seem to support the recommendations I've been reading on the internet (19-20p 4-blade, motor raised). I currently can't trim high enough to porpoise, with a 22p LaserII, motor in lowest position. Changing to a 4-blade cupped would increase lift (possibly causing porpoising), so raising the motor one or two holes to offset that may get it to where it is lifted its best at WOT, but motor high enough that it may not porpoise. I think this is getting to what I'm trying to understand. Thanks! Yep, that's what I've been reading on the interwebs. Thanks for the info - just trying to understand the effects of the changes I'll probably be making.

Hah, yeah, 21mph is huge! I'm expecting something more modest - maybe the 4-6 range ? My smartest move may be to just go to the motor height and prop that many other 190/115hp folks are running so I can be in the general vicinity, then go from there.

Thanks for the info so far, folks. My hull does not have a pad. My motor is currently in the lowest possible position, so there's nowhere to go but up. I'm also already running a stainless prop (3-blade LaserII 22p). I've never checked for a hook in the hull - will have to do that soon. The thing about it is that it seems to come up really well at 30-ish, where I can see the wake off the side basically right beside where I'm sitting. But, no matter how I trim it, when I go faster, I see that wake move forward. There is a reputable shop an hour away that does nothing but props. My fear is that, when I go there to test them, I won't be able to tell if any problems I have are related to motor height or prop. Many 190 owners just say "raise motor up to third hole, and put a cupped 4-blade on." I just like understanding the physics of that before I start randomly hoisting the motor and buying $500 props.

I don't believe so - I can trim the motor up at WOT to the point where I'm cavitating. Putting jackplates aside, is there only a "window" of speed where your boat is up high out of the water? Or can you do it from "X"mph to WOT? Is it possible that my motor, in its current location, just lifts the boat well at 30-ish mph, but going faster lifts too much, and the bow falls? Would moving the motor up cause the boat to lift better at a higher speed (and possibly not as well at 30)?

I'm making plans to get my 190tx/115 Opti running as good as possible in terms of motor height/prop selection. During my year of owning it, I've been learning how it runs and handles, and what I'd like to change. However, there's one thing I've noticed that seems odd, and I don't understand the cause of it. The boat planes out quickly , and is out of the water substantially at about 30-35mph. However, when I go faster, the boat seems to dig a bit deeper into the water, no matter how I trim it. I would think the opposite should happen - it should come up more. Motor is currently in lowest setting with a stainless Laser II prop. I planned on changing both motor height and prop, but would like to understand the physics of what's currently happening, first.

Thanks for all of the suggestions, folks - I'll try some of them soon. It's amazing how many lures one can accumulate over 30 years of fishing. My first step should probably be slimming down my stock, as I truly only have four groups of colors that I reach for. I wouldn't mind having a box for every depth - but I expect to fish as a co-angler on occasion, and packing a dozen trays out of my boat and into theirs could be frowned upon ?

I've been struggling with this forever. I have boxes of cranks from many brands, and in many colors, and, aside from a few of my favorites, can't seem to keep track of which ones perform which ways. 5'-8', or 7'-10'? I've been considering replacing all of them with one brand so I can do better. Maybe I'm just thinking too hard about it, but I don't feel like I'm being effective when I'm trying to run 9' deep and I tie on a crank that plows the bottom because it wants to run 12'. How do you keep track of how each of your cranks perform?

Navigation lights and a kill-switch lanyard.

My 2013 Tracker 190 currently only has a bungee near the passenger seat to hold the co-angler's rods. Has anyone attempted adding rod tubes running into the port side bow to accomodate co-angler rods? For anyone who has - is there a product you can purchase to simplify things, or did you measure/make it from scratch?

Yeah, I'm gonna have to start looking for other people with these around here. These sound fantastic for shallow ramps, but I also put in at a couple steep ramps, and I can imagine a terrible scene of me trying to walk the trailer to connect the front of the boat, then cranking it up the trailer for 15'. ?

Never heard of these before. Have you seen any issues with them being too slick? Any problem sliding off the trailer before you can walk to the front of the boat and hook the winch?

Yep, the technology is already out, and it's hard to go back. I think the bigger discrepancies are at the club/local level, where not everyone can afford the same equipment. That being said, a pro-level "charts-only" tournament, or something similar, could be fun. Even better, if you put together a tournament like that, and put the new pros against the old legends of bass fishing, to see who could really use intuition to find fish.

I actually haven't been getting yelled at... Maybe I'm not fishing enough? ?

Sorry if I wasn't being clear. The engine is operating normally. I just mean that, when I start the engine, I get the beep that just shows that the system is working. However, sometimes that beep is very soft instead of loud, and I'm afraid that it might do that when there's actually a problem, and I won't hear it.

I have the Elite Ti2 at the console. My only complaint is not already having one at the bow, as well, so I can see my waypoints while running the trolling motor. Panoptix and 360 seem like great features with the other brands, but I wasn't ready to drop that kind of cash for the add-ons. I see some excellent imaging from the Elite.

Traps for big numbers, and jigs w/trailers for big weights. Fishing for largemouths.

How'd this trip go? Where did you end up, and did you catch anything?

I run a 2013 115 Optimax and, occasionally, when I crank the engine, I get a quiet beep, as opposed to the usual loud beep most of you are familiar with. My concern, obviously, is that I may be running and not hear an alarm, should it sound. Anyone experience a similar issue? If so, what should I look for to correct it?

@WRB you got finished before I could finish mine. Just to be clear about my use of "torque"... I don't actually notice it pulling hard right when trimmed in, or hard left when trimmed out. But it definitely "digs in" to the right when I'm trimming back down. One person, without seeing it, guessed I may be trimming the trim tab out of the water, and it's catching when I'm coming back in - but I honestly have no idea ?

Thanks for the advice, folks. First off @Teal, I 100% agree about control. That's exactly why I haven't tried to continue trimming even farther out, due to the looseness of the boat/steering.@Way2slow @KYRANGERMAN When I'm not trying to experiment with it, I usually just get the boat on plane (it does easily), and then trim out until the steering isn't "heavy" anymore. Can you tell me the effects of raising the motor? I understand it'll reduce drag, but I'm guessing it'll also affect steering and the optimal amount of trim needed, as well? I may start with this and then tinker with prop selection if necessary.