LionHeart

I really don't toss swim baits often. Really depends on the weight. As long as the total weight is at least 3/8, absolutely.

That's pretty subjective because a lot of people like a super fast tip for jigs (I am not one of them) IMO it will without a doubt work for jigs. I used it for jigs 3/8 and 1/2 quite a bit when I first got it and it was up to the job. Although I'd recommend braid if you plan to bury a 5/0 jig hook at the end of a long cast. Mono and flouro have too much stretch to pull that off IMO.

Using 30 lb Power Pro and 15 lb Big Game mono as a leader. Totally happy with it. It makes an excellent 5 + XD rod.

I may not be the best person to ask. I'm not one to get too concerned with the balance of a rod. Having said that, if a rod is tip heavy enough for me to notice, I won't buy it. The Lews TP-1 series comes to mind. I personally would not put the Bass X into the tip heavy category, or at least not the rod in question. It has a decent handle length so that may come into play with the balance. I've had a Shimano Calcutta, a Lews Tournament MB, and finally a Diawa Tatula 100 on the rod, and have used it for a wild array of techniques. It is what I consider to be a true moderate fast tip, which makes it able to do well at most things. I mostly use it for 3/8+ spinner baits, whopper ploppers, buzz baits, chatter baits, 5,6, and 8xd's. 3/8 is pretty much its low end though. A 3/8 spinner bait with basically any trailer and it casts very well.

When guys talk about adding distance with a baitcaster by bearing changes, using braid instead if mono for backing (which seems hilarious to me), etc., I have to wonder if they have brakes and spool tension completely off. If not, start there. If your brakes and spool tension are wide open and you still aren't satisfied, use less thumb pressure during the cast. If your brakes are fully off, spool tension is fully loose, you use no thumb pressure during cast (and you are somehow not getting massive birdnest), and you still aren't casting far enough, there is probably something mechanically wrong with your reel. Not trying to be a wise guy, but claiming that using braid as backing adds casting distance seems extremely silly to me.

Never tried KVD, but "Reel Magic" was a quick way to waste 7 bucks.

The toughest part is determining what the thread color will look like by looking at it online. It will always look a little different in real life. I agonized over it way more than I should have.

Alex said he could change the decal colors as well but I honestly liked the blue. Also had them add a smidge of length to the handle.

I have that model of Bass X. Love it! I use it for anything that moves 3/8- 1 and 3/4

I had ALX replace the silver on my Zolo Dragger with metallic gold. It looks fantastic with the original blue accent pieces.

I downloaded a distance tracking app on my phone to walk off distance. Pretty sure it's nowhere near as accurate as a range finder, but it was free, and does the job for me. If you've got a tape measure laying around, just measure it. That's what I used to do. Come to think of it, just walk off 40 yards. That's how much backing you should need for a 100 size reel. Fill the rest with braid and it should be about 75 yards worth.

100 yards is more than enough for casting distance. I'd add some backing purely so you will achieve the intended retrieve speed though.

The only real world advantage a baitcaster has in my opinion is the ability to easily control the distance of your cast. But that can be kind of a big deal. If you have never owned one, it's worth checking out. Like Islandbass said, don't get the cheapest reel you can find. Learning a baitcaster is usually pretty frustrating, but even worse if you don't use decent quality gear.

How do you fish a grub? I use them as trailers all the time, but have never fished one with just a bullet weight.

Do it all the time

When I think of being surprised by a house rod I think Cabelas ZX rods for sure. Guess I'll be trying the BPS rods at some point. They now own my beloved Cabelas store. Bwahahahaha

Their lips are chapped. Happens to me too when it gets cold?

Just post your location and lake. I'll go with you. Let's meet at the state park ramp of Ray Robert's in Valley View TX. I'll be there Monday at 3:50.

Ahh ha. Makes sense. Thanks man

Another nod to ALX. I don't know about all of their models but the Ikos blanks are imported and built here. The Zolo line is 100% made in the USA. Not to take away from the Ikos line, never heard anything but praise about them. I own a Zolo Dragger, makes a great heavy pitching rod IMO. If I could get out of my Original Tatula rod what it is worth to me, my next trig rod would be an ALX Deputy.

I'll quote this for clarity because I think maybe either I'm not clearly asking my question, or it has been answered and is going right over my head. In the above reference of picking up a rod for a given application and not knowing whether it is spooled with 17 or 20 lb test line: Of what utility is that knowledge? If you plan to through a crainkbait, odds are you will grab the rod already set up for crankbaits. Is the rod and reel not the predominant determinant, and the choice of line follow suit? Would you favor a rod spooled with 17 lb instead of 20 lb for the same technique (all else being equal)? I understand (or at least think I do) why certain line types and lb test are preferred for certain applications, it seems fairly obvious. What I am not clear on is if you need to pitch into a bunch of nasty cover (for example), grab your heavy pitching rod, it should already be properly set up for that task. And if indeed it is, then of what value would it be to know the lb test or diameter of fishing line you have already decided appropriate? Maybe there is something I am not getting. Admittedly I am far from proficient.

I guess I can sort of understand the point you guys are trying to make, but in my mind it's like saying this. (Stick with me here) Let's say I have to change the PTO on my riding mower, and instead of using one socket wrench and grabbing the various sockets that I will need to do the job, I grab 12 socket wrenches and attach a different size socket to each wrench. I then label each wrench according to the task it will perform. On one wrench, I write 'Idler pulleys,' another I write 'Deck Level Retainer,' another 'PTO Clutch Bolt.' At this point, the size of the socket on each wrench is irrelevant because I have set up each wrench according to the task it will perform. All I need to know is the task it is intended to perform. In my mind, this is what we do as fisherman when we have 5, 10, 12, etc. rods on deck at the ready. Each rod has already been set up according to its purpose. Wondering what size line is on my finesse plastic rod would be like picking up a wrench labeled 'Idler pulleys,' and wondering if it had a 1/2 or 9/16 socket attached. It wouldn't much matter because that wrench is already to go for its intended purpose. I hope that makes sense to anyone but me. The winter months are rough.

Out of honest curiosity, why would you need to know after the rod is set up? I mean, if you keep a dozen rods on deck I'm guessing that each is set for a specific reason. When would you go to pick up a rod designated for throwing chatter baits, etc. and think, 'oh crap, what size line is on the reel?' Not trying to be a wise acre, asking out of pure ignorance.

I use graphite but find it interesting. Craw, what is it that makes you prefer glass over graphite?