LionHeart

A longer rod will be heavier at the tip which will wear you flat out while walking a frog. I use a 7'4" Zolo Dragger which I had built as a jig rod. As such, the extra handle length is cumbersome to work around, and the over all length of the rod just makes the experience take more effort and resolve than I'd prefer. To me, a 7 footer would be just right.

Gotcha. Send the young man here. Let him seek the answers himself. It is sweet that you are trying to help him out, and IMO bass fishing is an excellent healthy hobby for a 14 yo, but It may be more productive if he comes here and seeks advice himself.

$385? Let's talk about those tennis shoes. For that budget he will not be able to buy top of the line, but some pretty decent gear for sure. This is a super broad question though, as I'm guessing he is looking to do pretty much everything with one rod and reel setup? This cannot be done. A rod is like a tool, and expecting a rod designed for one purpose to accomplish another is like trying to hammer nails with an open end wrench. It can be done, but better to use a hammer. A 7 foot, medium heavy rod is probably the most widely recommended rod because it is the swiss army knife of fishing rods. It should be able to handle lure weights from 1/4-3/4 oz. A 7 gear ratio reel would be my recommendation, it is in my opinion the most versatile reel speed. Unfortunately it isn't like buying most other things. No one manufacturer reigns supreme across all models and purposes. It depends heavily on what techniques one is looking to use. In fact, the best advice I can give would be to consult his sister's husband and let him guide your boy through this process.

It's a cool idea, but a little gimmicky. I use the FG exclusively and feel my hand tied knots are as good as if not better than what this device does. Also, what's with the mono half hitch? I have never seen that one before.

As you can see, it is a matter of preference. Take consolation know that whichever one you choose, you will wish you had chosen the other. Is this your only rod and reel? If so, go 7 speed no doubt about it.

Paca Chunk

I usually wear the base and mid layers that were issued to me in the military, then add a third layer that is a good wind breaker and has a hood (usually an old North Face shell). My torso rarely gets cold unless its below 40 and fairly windy. Maybe check out an Army surplus store if you have one in your area. I will say, the cold weather gear the military issues is pretty excellent.

7 'speed' (roughly 31ish ipt) is a pretty fast reel and there ain't alot it won't do well. Personally I use an 8 'speed' (33 fish ipt) for anything I drag across the bottom or frogs, and love it. Would a 7 speed work just as well? Oh sure. But I prefer an 8. I see guys always make the comment that with the loss of torque, they fear a fast reel won't be able to pull a fish away from cover, muck, or whatever. That is not the job of the reel or its gears. That is the job of your fishing rod. Let the rod do its job, and use the reel to take up slack line. In which case, an 8 speed is better than a 7 speed. Just my opinion which ain't worth much.

2 things: This is a tough time of year generally for bass fishing. Bass are deep, and less active. If you go out for hours and catch nothing, it may be your fault but it's likely also the time of year. Don't get discouraged. Second, if you know nothing about bass fishing it can be like drinking from a fire hose. Find a legit youtube channel and spend copious time watching and learning. Stay away from the channels by kids trying to start their own rod company. They don't offer much useful material, only comedic relief. Tactical Bass'n is really good, also what is the channel Gene Jenson (spelling?) has? It's pretty decent for basic info

If you're flipping, the reel doesn't matter. For pitching I really like a fast reel. I'd use the 8. You can use a 7 ratio for cranking and it will work great, but for bigger crank baits (larger than say a 5XD) I prefer the added torque of a 6 gear ratio reel.

Reel weight does not counter balance the tip weight of a rod unless you place the reel behind where you hold the rod. Is that what you plan to do?

Thanks for all the advice guys. It is much appreciated. I went with the Mustang Survival Corp HIT. Can't wait to give it to my dad.

Hey guys, I'm looking for any advice I can get on a good inflatable PFD. I plan to buy one for my dad for Christmas. He recently got a fishing boat, and as he is getting a bit long in the tooth, I worry about him out on the water by himself. He always has a life vest but just like his son, never wears it for the same reasons other people don't wear them. I'm thinking an inflatable may make be the ticket. Although I am not a man of great means, I see buying a life vest the same as buying a bullet proof vest, if it may have to save your life, best not to skimp. The features that are a must are: Most reliable (obviously), but I want something that he will be able to wear if if fishes in the rain without fear of deployment. Comfort. It needs to be cool and breathable. It gets warm during Tennessee summers and I don't want him taking it off because it is too hot. It needs to fit a bigger guy. My dad is a bigger fellow and again, I want him to be comfortable in it or he ain't gonna wear it. If anybody has any recommendations I would appreciate it very much. Thanks- James

I really only got into frog fishing this past season so take my advice for what it is worth, but I think you would have a really tough time setting frog hooks with a fiber glass fishing rod. I totally get what you are saying about the rod action, but woah baby, I get frustrated just thinking about trying to do what you are asking about.

Honestly I'd stick to a spinning setup for trout, but I am no trout fisherman. The only trout fishing I've done is with small weights and hooks using power bait. Just cast it out and let it sit. You could do this with a bait casting rig but it seems like trying to file down a square peg to fit a round hole.

The answer is absolutely. A 7 speed reel works great for crankbaits smaller than a 6xd. I find a 6 speed ideal and a 5 speed too slow and torquey for just about anything. There ain't a wrong answer here. It's like asking what is the best seat position while driving a car. It's whatever you are comfortable with.

Nope. Give me 80 degrees, with partly overcast and 5-10 mph wind.

The simple answer is that I'd use 30 lb braid with 12lb or so mono leader. You'll get different answers with all sorts of logical reasons but if I only had 1 rod to handle all my moving baits, that's what I'd use for sure. A cheap medium fast rod is excellent for everything you mentioned generally speaking, as long as you keep the total lure weight around 1/4ish to 1/2ish ounce weight and dont plan to use hooks above 4/0. Yes, it would be a very good choice IMO. For the Veritas, yes things like Texas rigs 1/4- 3/8 oz bullet weight and jigs. I am not a big fan of jig fishing personally but any jig heavier than 3/8 plus skirt, plus trailer typically gets thrown on a heavy power rod.

I'd use the $30 rod for an all purpose moving bait rod. They don't need to be particularly light, balanced, or sensitive. Use the veritas as a bottom contact kind of rod. The veritas is light, pretty sensitive, and a medium fishes like a medium heavy

Best advice I can give is if you live out in the country, don't store your rods anywhere that critters can get to them and chew on the handles. It will break your heart.

So when hauling in a big bass with your ultra lite spinning combo, you feel like it is putting a strain on your gear? I'm not trying to be cute but that sounds fairly normal to me.

Just when I think I've heard everything. 5/0, you'll be fine man. Tie the knots wherever you like. I saw on a youtube video by a certain 'Informative' fisherman that spraying lube in your rod guides will increase casting distance. Gotta be careful what you take to heart out there.

What supposed problem would be caused by having said knots on the same side? I just don't get it.

Lesson #1: The technique you are referring to is called pitching, not flipping/pitching. Those are two entirely different techniques. Lesson #2: If you hear someone else say it incorrectly, educate them on the difference. No matter how many kids on YouTube say flipping/ pitching, it ain't correct. Let's get this thing turned around. Lesson #3: I wouldn't recommend setting up your pitching reel any differently than you would use it for casting. A big part of pitching accurately requires you to properly train your thumb. Setting your brakes or spool friction higher than normal will slow your learning. It's best to 'train the way you fight.' Remember, you are using a baitcaster reel, so going for distance is never a good idea while learning to cast regardless. Same goes for pitching. You need to be focusing on when to ease thumb pressure during the 'release' portion of the pitch and not much else. Start off by making easy peasy smooth pitches. If your lure only goes 20 ft. you are doing it right.

Pay a pro to do it or you will never be happy with it. If you're like me, you'll still find fault with it. Costs about 15 bucks. Google fishing rod repair. Be prepared to drive an hour if you have to. Also be prepared to wait a couple weeks if you're lucky.