Vilas15

I've been happy with a revo toro S and a revo SX. And of course the old C3s are still going strong. If Abu copied the Pfleuger president (another pure fishing brand) I'd be all over it.

That's what I'm thinking. Is a bass able to digest a soft plastic at all? The plastic could probably make it all the way through the system looking the same as it went in, so I don't think that's any way to determine how long its been there.

The c3, c4, and morrum are made in sweden. The revos are made in korea. The cheaper ambassadeurs and black max, etc. are made in china.

I'd probably use a 20 lb as the smallest/lightest just because they can get so small it's hard to use. I wouldn't want it any lighter than my line either. I'd probably use a 30 or 50 lb rated snap most often.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/VMC-DUOLOCK-SNAP/2074704.uts?slotId=0

Snaps are OK, swivels are OK, but most will say don't use the combo snap swivels. Snaps are nice for crankbaits, and I like swivels tied up the line ahead of certain things, like in a carolina rig. Are you saying someone used a split ring, barrel swivel, and snap swivel all at once? Thats a lot of hardware that seems unecessary.

An interesting first post on a 5 year old thread...

I'm in the same boat (or ice shanty). If we've still got ice on May 5th then there's a serious problem. Otherwise there's nothing to hope for, it's all predetermined.

How much older? The new mojo's are also SCIII so they should be very similar. I just likened it to the mojos because those are technique specific and wanted to see what techniques St Croix designed a similar rod for.

The st croix website lists the 7'4 Heavy as the most similar Mojo model. Its called the Slop-n-frog/Swim jig. Here's the desription "This is “the rod” for fishing slop and lily pads with frogs and rats. Designed to efficiently cast light frogs and pull bass from the thickest cover. Also recommended for swim jigs."

I lost a magnum bulldawg to a backlash that snapped 80 lb braid... watched it sail off into the sunset. I knew I should've gotten that 100 lb!

Just one in particular . Being 6'7" has plenty of downsides too...

My Lexa 400 is more comfortable to palm, has a faster retrieve, and has better braking than my Abu Ambassadeur 6500. Those are the advantages I've found that make big LowPros worth it. I enjoy both.

Left to right. I prefer to cast off the port side in a deep-V single console and it makes netting easier between the guy in front and in back.

Which one will you use more often? Id go with that one. Or would you rather have 2 Avid/Avix X? Price would come out about the same.

Most musky guys swear by Knipex cutters. Expensive but cut through massive hooks easily. Maybe a bit overkill but might be worth it when you've got a hook in your hand.

I have a couple "B" stock rods, as mentioned above they only have a 1 year warranty and some blemish which you may or may not be able to figure out. Every time I've gone the B stocks are 30% off, and you can get an additional 20% off the B stock rod if you buy a new rod full price at the same time. As far as I know the blemishes are likely issues with the cork, some sort of pit or something. Could also be the finish of the blank or the St Croix decals, etc. There shouldn't be anything functionally wrong and like I mentioned I don't even know what's wrong the the few that I have.

I've got a Lund rebel 1650 with Minn Kota Terrova w/ IPilot Link, 80 lb thrust, 24V, and a Humminbird Helix 9 SI GPS. Never had a problem with batteries running out or not enough thrust. Satisified with the Helix unit as well. I would go with a 24V system and 80 lb thrust minimum.

Alumacraft also has some options: http://www.alumacraft.com/Alumacraft-Boat-Search.php?action=list&model_year=2018&search_boat_types[]=is_bass

Does anyone use this or have any strong opinions? I love Sufix 832 braid and Elite mono so I'm interested in this line. A search shows it mentioned in a few threads but nothing else. And what about the fluoro leader version?