papajoe222

I don't play games when I'm fishing big worms. If I feel the pick-up, or the worm feels light or heavy when I go to move it, I set the hook without hesitating. I also use 5/0 hooks because there have been times when that big worm came back doubled up on the hook point. Sometimes they ball that big worm up in their mouth. I don't give 'em the chance and if by some brain fart on my part they do, that big gap is insurance.

I've heard of guys breaking hooks, but often wondered what exactly one has to do to break a hook? I've been fishing 60 years and never broken a hook and trust me when I say there's a reason I warn my co-angler when I'm about to set the hook when fishing soft plastics or jigs. I've broken a couple of rods setting the hook on things that don't swim, but never a hook. Just wondering. I've used both the flipping and tube Trokar hooks and yes, they are sharp and strong and there are situations where that is exactly what I want from a hook. As far as expense goes, a tungsten weight is expensive, so is fluorocarbon line, but they're worth it, IMO.

I built a cranking. Stick with a MHX-905 blank, white, that works great for mid-deep cranks. It is a slightly heavier (power ) blank than most MH blanks and I don't do much in the way of deep cranking anymore. They also make a 7'6" HM, I believe it's the 967 or 965.

I used two transition guides and put tension on the blank to insure the line wouldn't come in contact it. All three are double foot and the remaining are single foot.

If you want to make it easier to walk a frog I'd suggest adding a split ring to the line tie and trimming the legs. The split ring allows the frog to turn much easier than a direct tie to the eye and trimming the legs reduces the drag that inhibits its turning. Also, try adding a couple of split shot into the belly. They'll help keep the nose up which also makes walking easier.

I'd adhere to the KISS theory. Two topwater baits, one weedless. Three or four crankbaits with small bodies and clear lips, to cover the entire water column of whatever pond you fish. One each willow blade and Colorado blade spinnerbait. One black or white buzzbait. A few tungsten bullet weights in assorted sizes. One pkg. of 3/0 EWG Gammys A handful of ribbon tais worms and a handful of stick worms. If you have room, a few Rage Tail Space Monkeys.

As long as you don't overtax your equipment, you're okay using what you have. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I always like to show the fish something they don't see on a regular basis. Although hollow body frogs and weightless worms work great, I still like to throw a Johnson Silver Minnow with either a curly tail grub, or the back section of a ribbon tail worm. Let it wobble across the tops of the weeds and when it reaches open pockets, let in drop into them, Same goes for the edge of the weeds. Between the wobble and flash of the spoon and theqaction of the trailer, you can clean up behind guys pounding the weed tops with frogs.

I know guys that catch fish walking a frog over open water.I don't even try. If I'm fishing open water, I'd much rather fish a Spook. I feel it's better at drawing strikes and the hook up percentage is much better. I use hollow body frogs for fishing the weeds. If I'm faced with a situation where there's open water between the weeds and me, I opt for soft body frog like a Ribbit that I can work slowly across the weeds and then run it across the surface back to me.

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For every bass that lives it's entire life in one acre of water there are four dozen or more that will roam miles during the course of a year. From deep river channels in the winter, up creek arms to spawn and then out to main lake points only to follow the shad bck up the creek arms in the fall and then back to their winter holding spots

Welcome. Jig and trailer color combinations are near the bottom of the list of things that you should concern yourself with, IMO. There may be times when color will determine your overall success, but fish location, the fall rate and even the trailer's action or lack of, will be the factors that determine your success on a regular basis. I've used everything from the tail section of a worm to a lighter, trailer less jig after depleting my supply of a certain trailer and continued to catch fish.

Thanks! I'll make sure to keep a record of it.

If I could figure out how to, I would. I did some nice inlays on the wraps that actually came out the way I planned. I'd love to read some comments on both, but I have a computer handicap......my grandson isn't here! Quality guides and placement likely contribute more to my perception of increase sensitivity than the spiral wrap.

I'm looking for the name of the treble hooks with the barb on the outside. I picked up some #4 & #6 last spring for my jerk baits and they performed so well, I put a set on a 1/2oz. lipless crank I was using today. OMG! seven fish, and not one came unbuttoned even though all but one jumped at least once. I'm sure it was a result of the thin wire they're made of and the barb's position on the outside. I just don't remember the company that makes them, or what they're called.

I had a nice Forecast SP841 blank sitting around and decided to try my hand at a spiral wrap. I'm not a big fan of spinning rods, so I figured this would give me the action I wanted using a baitcaster. I have to admit, it looks a little strange between the last six guides positioned under the rod along with the placement of them. I can't deny the performance, though. IMO, the rod is more sensitive and just feels more comfortable when working smaller tube jigs and hair jigs. I paired it with one of my Sols and it also casts them effortlessly. Sadly, i only have use for one such rod so I doubt if I'll be doing another. <a href="http://s23.photobucket.com/user/papajoe222/media/IMG_4337.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/papajoe222/IMG_4337.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_4337.jpg"/></a>

Hat's off to you. Great to hear of fellow anglers sharing an angling experience with one of our soldiers. I, too, take part in a similar program to take vets fishing. Sad to say it really hasn't taken off in my local. The rod build is going way above the call, it's 'fantasimo' (my grandson's description). As I'm gaining more confidence in my own builds, I'm contemplating doing something similar. The rod, however, wouldn't have the decorative thread work, possibly a decal or inscription.

I know what you mean about asking,Bill. I'm a regular customer at my local BPS and most of the cashiers don't even ask, I feel awkward about asking for it. Now a Senior Citizen discount..........They hear me three registers over when I ask!

Thanks I know BPS gives a 10% discount at the register, but I was unaware Cabela's had any military discounts.

I fish all the moon phases and years of keeping logs he proven to me it makes little difference. What matters more is the moon's position in the sky. I've always done better when it's descending rather than rising. Not a big difference, but enough to be discernible. Regardless, I always fish alone at night and only take three rigged rods. One with a black buzzbait, one with a black single Colorado blade spinnerbait, and the last with a black or dark blue T-Rigged ribbon tail worm.

A walking topwater can be worked over shallow cover or deep structure and draw strikes from post spawn through the fall turnover. A T-Rig can be, too. Add a crankbait or spinnerbait and you have the water column covered. Then it's just a matter of fine tuning once you start to develop a pattern.

His name is: THE BAIT MONKEY

IMO, big worms don't make that much of a difference. It's where you throw them that does. Deep structure with isolated cover is my #1 choice and my #2 is any transition area with deep water access. I have three worms that are my confidence big worms; A Zoom OleMonster, Mann's Jelly Worm and Net Bait's C-Mac. The deeper I fish, the darker the worm I throw.

It's the older, red version and the owner was the type to leave a rod rigged over the off season. Thanks Jeff, I got another earlier this season, new in the box. When it rains Daiwas, I turn my umbrella upside down.

Most anglers will back off the drag on their reels at the end of the day, but forget about the spool tension. If you want consistent performance from your reels, do both. At the very least, don't leave tension on it over extended periods. Case in point; I just got a screaming deal on an older Fuego that I just couldn't pass up. The previous owner was frustrated with backlash issues that it developed early last season that he couldn't solve. He asked me to check it out for him. I took the reel apart to give it a good cleaning. It was clean and well lubed, but during my inspection I discovered the cause of his problem. He had left tension on the spool over the off season and possibly longer.The plastic spacer the spool shaft pushes against had dimpled excessively and consistent tension couldn't be achieved by adjusting the knob. I flipped the spacer over, reassembled the reel and gave it a test run. He had purchased another reel and when I went to return this one, said I could have it for much less than the reel is worth. I jumped all over it and now I have three of these fine reels.