papajoe222

Ever since fluoro hit the market I've tried to accept it as another tool to use as it has it's advantages over mono, but I've grown to absolutely despise the stuff. Last fall I picked up a spool of this blend from Yo-Zuri and I gotta say I'm really impressed. I used it a few times last season, but I've really put it through the conditions I would use fluoro in if I didn't hate the stuff so muchon my last few outings.. Anyway, I think I have found a place for the Yo-Zuri in my 'tool box.' This is a great cranking line and outshines mono on my tubin' gear. The things I'm really impressed with are the knot strength and sensitivity. I have a tendency toward a very zealous hook set and that was the downfall of fluoro for me. Not a problem now. I did my 'cross her eyes' hook set on a couple of 3+lb. girls and not only did the knot not break, the sensitivity factor was the reason for my recognition of the first fish. The pick-up of my tube was so subtle, I doubt I would have detected it with mono. Manageability is still a downside as this stuff is on the stiff side, but a little KVD line conditioner and it became manageable. For those of you that have given up on fluorocarbon lines, this could be an alternative. It even comes in an 'Ultra Soft' version that I haven't tried, but my ultra light is looking to get some 6lb. on it soon. (yea, I know 6lb. isn't exactly ultra light, but any thinner and I can't see to tie the stuff)

It's one of the two TM batteries. The other battery pulls 13.2 volts when first plugged in.

You must not fish any water with shallow cover. Without any protection, your transducer is in a position to be the first thing to strike anything. You'll save money doing it your way, but likely end up having to replace it down the road.

My concern is that the battery in question is only drawing a trickle charge from the automatic charger even when first connected. I would expect it to draw a full 6amps @ 13+ volts. I guess it could be holding a charge well enough that it doesn't require more. I just thought there might be a problem.

I normally don't throw square bills until after the spawn and when I do, I like a bigger bait. I don't own any 2.5's, but I'm thinking maybe I should add a couple after all the good things I've been reading about them and the 1.5

When the carp are spawning, which follows shortly after the bass and before the bluegill, I avoid the immediate area as I've never done much good close to all their commotion. Their ritual is a good indicator to me that the female bass have moved off the nests and that's when I begin fishing deeper areas.

I throw T-rig worms on braid in gin clear water all the time. Then again, when I'm T-rigging a worm I drag it along the bottom so the line's visibility isn't a concern. I do, however, add a couple of bars to the line about 4in. apart above the worm.

I believe it's a combination of both. The more line you can move on the hookset, the better your chances of hooking up, but only if the rod has some backbone. then again, with a MH X-Fast rod, there isn't much give so it isn't necessary to move a lot of line as the power of the rod will drive the hook home.

I have a 24V system set up for my trolling motor along with the cranking battery. One of the three is not accepting a full charge from my three bank charger. My volt meter only registers 12.7V the other two batteries are drawing the full 13.2 Volts. It's the newest of the three batteries and if there were a dead cell, it wouldn't register more than 11 Volts. Anyone have an idea what may be going on? I switched the leads from the charger around with the same results, so I know it isn't the charger.

This. Unlike most topwaters, you can't change the cadence, only the speed. With hard body baits you can change both the speed and cadence including dead still.

Only four feet deep? If you want to get her away from live bait you could start her off with a 4in. Senko style worm. Nose hook it with a #4 circle hook and she'll have plenty of action, if you can keep the bluegill at bay.

If the scum is below the surface, you can opt for a topwater. If there is enough space above the scum a Spook should put you back into fish, if not a hollow body frog.

The only time I cast with two hands is when I'm throwing cranks, but then again that's about the only time I'm looking for distance. If I were fishing from shore, I'd do It a lot more.

Don't get me wrong, I love fishing anytime the water isn't hard, but only in the spring can I catch them with almost everything in my tacke box. I was out for a few hours this morning and boated seven bass over 16 in. from a local forest preserve lake. Two each on a spinnerbait, popper and worm, one on a lizard. I had another two on a crank that came unbuttoned. This was the only one over 18in.

Anything that runs under 12ft., it's mono for me. Deeper than that, I use braid, but on a different rod/reel.

Great job. Not to take away from your success, but what lb. test line are you breaking? From your description, it doesn't sound like you're breaking off at the knot, which is what prompted me to discontinue using fluorocarbon.

Just wondering what your dad was catching the bowfin on? I've picked them up on an occasional crank, but the only consistent producer has been live or dead shiners.

I like to skip a tube under docks unless I can get up close and pitch a jig there. Most of the lakes I fish have clear water and the fish spook easily, so I'll stay out 10yrds. or so and skip a tube. If I'm just randomly going from dock to dock, I'll have two rods rigged with cranks that run off to the side and cast so that it runs under the dock and bounces off the pilings.

I used the Rapala knot for years until the old eyes made tying knots a bit of a hassle. It's simple to tie and allows the bait the freedom to move easily. Wish I would have known about that canoe mans loop.

Welcome. When getting back int fishing or just starting out, I always recommend finding a versatile bait that covers or can cover different depths and is productive throughout the open water season. Two come to mind and a third isn't that far out of the running. A jig, Senko and a spinnerbait. For the waters you describe and fishing from shore, I'd go with the stick bait and rig it Texas or wacky style without a weight. The water is shallow enough that it will sink to the bottom easily without any and it has the most action without one. Being proficient with more than one bait/presentation lets you adjust to changing conditions. You can adjust your rigging and/or presentation on these baits for those changing conditions so multiple baits aren't necessary.

Are you sure those aren't circle hooks? They make an octopus circle hook Model-2214 that looks almost identical to their regular octopus hook. With a circle hook you don't set the hook, but keeping your rod tip high, you just reel. They are great for any plastic that the fish might swallow.

Just from a couple of statements that you made, I'd venture to say there aren't any big fish. A 2lb. bass is a decent fish and may be one of the bigger fish there. The bottom content, lack of vegetation, abundance of small fish and high phosphorous all add up to a very poor candidate for producing big fish. I'd also venture a guess that there isn't an abundance of bait fish present. That plus the abundance of small fish would stunt the growth rate of all the fish. Your subdivision likely has no lake management plan, which will contribute to the fish population remaining stunted. If there is an association for your subdivision, you could approach them about setting a slot limit and encouraging removal of fish under 12in. and possibly the stocking of a forage species, but don't expect any short term results. A 13in. bass will take five years to reach quality size (18in.+) in our area and that is under good conditions which could take a while to achieve. The good news is that this body of water sounds like a great place to hone your skills, experiment with new techniques and build your confidence. There are a number of big fish producing lakes within an hour or so of the Chicago area you can take that experience to.

About the only big bait that hasn't produced many small fish for me is a 1/2oz. jig with a big craw trailer. Compared to some baits, some would consider it small, but a big bulky trailer on a jig is a big meal for Ms. Bass. I'd bet I could count the number of fish under 15in. I caught on a jig/craw combo last year on my hands. Just something about a jig that seems to produce nicer fish. I catch more small fish on 10in.worms. Before someone comments about a 15in. bass being small, consider the region I'm in and the fact that the bait is a mere 5in. long.

Finding quality fish on pressured waters is a daunting task, but if you're willing to put in the time it can be worth the effort. If you can get a topo map, look at those community holes on it. What do they have in common? What is the bottom content? Is there a common depth to the productive areas of them? Now it's time to do some homework, first on the map. Look for small areas that share similarities with those community holes. There are often off shore points that are visible on a map, but don't appear to be related to the shoreline and they may only run from one depth to another. They're similar to an off shore shelf, but have the features of a point that extends from shore. Follow the creek bed on the map looking for small swings and areas where it parallels small flats. Lastly, get on the water and leave your rods in the locker and check those spots you located on the map with your depth finder. Look for signs of forage and cover on them and mark the ones that have either or both present. No go back and fish them hard. Hopefully you'll discover a pattern you can use on multiple spots. Hope that helps.

Welcome to the onset of old age. I've had five hand surgeries, one shoulder, one elbow and I need to get the other shoulder done soon. It'd be more if they made replacements parts like backs. It could be worse, we could have lived in a time where there were no surgeries to correct those things.