papajoe222

Me too. Good luck with the install, I ache just thinking about jobs like that. Hope it lasts,too.

Head423 is currently 23 miles south of Atlanta still running at full speed and wondering why he ever visited this site. Poor guy. On the upside, as with any diverse group like ours, it's nice to see that we can agree to disagree and do it with a smile on our faces. Too bad he's running so hard, he missed out on the fun.

I was just wondering how you guys skin hook your plastics. The reason I wonder is because of a recent experience I had while fishing with my neighbor. We were fishing 6in. stick worms and he was missing a lot of fish. I saw that he was only using a 2/O hook and suggested he skin hook the worm for better hook ups, but he continued to miss fish, I gave him a 4/0 Gammy and when he cut off to tie it on I noticed that he had the worm T-rigged. When I asked why he didn't take my suggestion, he replied that he did and showed me the hook point in the worm. My idea of skin hooking is to bring the hook point up through the side of the plastic rather than the center. I really dislike miscommunication with fellow anglers, especially when it leads to missed opportunities. He began hooking up after changing out to the larger hook, but I wonder what kind of day he would have had . Did I mislead him?

Check with Tracker Marine. If there is a Bass Pro Shop near you, you could also check with them at their parts counter. On another note, I have a 2005 Tracker and the original charger is still doing it's job on my two trolling motor batteries and I fish an electric only lake twice a week. I'm not trying to steer you away from getting another Guest 8, but I'd rather drill a couple of holes in the bracket than purchase the same brand of charger that failed me. MinnKota chargers receive nothing but five star reviews and they have great customer service. The reason I know is my neighbor has the same exact boat and changed to a three bank one about five seasons ago. He checked out every brand out there and of course, I got an earful about replacing mine.

If it weren't for the fatigue factor, notice I didn't say age, I'd deep crank the majority of deep structure. I switch it up with a C-rig when the old arm and wrist start to give out. One of the options I used for years was C-rigging a shallow crank. Now I just use a Booyah Boo Rig and a crappie sized crank or a Bandit 100 series. Little cranks down deep are very rarely seen and the big girls love 'em more that a 12in. worm. The 1/2oz. rig will get down and stay down and unlike deep diving cranks you can fish it in 12ft. of water or 25 without changing baits.

This can and is very frustrating, but the upside is that you've accomplished what can be the most difficult obstacle to catching. You've located the fish. Most often, when fishing shallow in clear water, the fish are spooked easily and are not actively feeding. Back as far from the area as a long cast will allow, or cast well past the fish. Second, as they are likely not going to chase your offering, use something that can be either moved along very slowly, or by dead sticking (allowing it to sit motionless). Jigs, drop-shotting and top-waters would fit that description nicely. Attempting to elicit a reaction strike with a fast moving presentation, will result in more frustration in my experience.

Base your lure preference on the depth of the water and the cover. If either, or both are unknown, a jig or T-rigged plastic is your best option. If a bass chases your lure, but doesn't commit to strike it she is interested. The first thing I would suggest is changing the speed, or angle of your retrieve when the fish is following and on a few more cass. Then, I would either go to a smaller or different color. Only active fish will follow a bait, so if you don't get bit or don't see any filling fish keep changing things up.

Welcome to the board and this awesome sport. WRB's statement is correct. Bass' including smallies, are not bottom feeders. Their eyes are positioned for optimal viewing above and in front of them. In order to view something below their line of sight, the have to adjust their body position, or the object needs to be at a distance that allows it to enter their field of vision. This is the reason most hits occur as the bait is falling. This fact is a little off topic, but does pertain to the OP's question. A lure falling on slack line is difficult to detect a bite on. Whether the reel is engaged or in free spool, some tension on the line is paramount to success. If casting to a specific target, cast past it whenever possible. You can then maintain some tension on the line as your lure falls toward you. The more tension (reel engaged), the more it will move toward you

A bass will take a bait head first the majority of the time, so there really isn't a need to wait after you feel, or see the bite. I stull use a cross their eyes hook set with worms, but that's more a conditioned response than a necessity.

Is the white an underwrap? If so, what thread and color preservative did you use. I've tried two brands of both thread and color lock and haven't found a combination that the blank doesn't bleed through. Sweet look. Nice work, especially on the cork. My future wintertime project will be attempting a checker board grip.

Don't know how to post the link, but the Wilson Sisters performing Highway to Heaven

Not knowing the forage base of your waters, I wouldn't recommend any particular color. If bluegill or minnows are the forage of choice, honey, pearl pepper and green pumpkin purple gold flake. A good all around color, regardless, would be green pumpkin. You can always add some color to them with a Sharpie.

I use hair and feather jigs a lot during the pre and post ice periods, but they're rarely over 3/16oz. I tied up a bunch over the winter, some with feathers and hair, and haven't used them yet as I was on the DL until May. Until I started experimenting with smaller tubes, they were also used for a finess presentation. I use basically two retrieves, the one you mention and what I call hip-hopping it through the water column. It's basically a yo-yo swimming retrieve. If they're looking for something more verticle, I switch to a BitsyBug and a smally chunk.

Sounds like someone was scoping you out . This is the main reason I don't leave my garage door open. Something similar happened to my neighbor that always had his open if he was home. They caught the guy, it was the garbage man. He saw the huge, rolling tool cabinet and returned until the door was down and then broke in knowing my neighbor wasn't home. Hope they catch the guy and he still has your gear. It'll take a while to get it back, but that beats the alternative.

I figure I can get by the rest of the month with a couple of packs of ribbon tails in Junebug and green pumpkin in 6 or 7in. and 10 or 12in. BPS doesn't carry the NetBait, C-mac, but they do carry the Ole Monster. I figure that'll only set me back $20 or so and my pension check will be here at the beginning of the month and another $60 or so worth of worms will get me through the season.

Not that I would ever limit myself to one Winter................hair jig Spring ........lipless crank Summer.....Zara Spook Fall........short arm single willow spinnerbait

Speed worm

So after an early morning outing, I returned home to discover my worm satchel missing. Big bummer. I seriously doubt that I misplaced it, but no matter the reason I need to replace around 25-30 bags of worms. I just hope the person that has/found my satchel knows quality plastics when he sees them.

I always back off the drag AND spool tension after every use. Some of my reels have carbon drag washers. I look at this the same way I do using scent on baits; it can't hurt.

God willing and the creek don't rise, I plan on making both. I timed my surgery to be healed up by fishing season up here and was recouping for the first Baked Potato Classic. Missed seeing some and the opportunity to meet others, not to mention a chance to fish that legendary water.

Prior to a storm front can be the best fishing, but most dangerous times to be on the water. A fast approaching front is often accompanied by lightning and despite the great fishing, I don't recommend being on the water when the sky is lighting up. Keep an ear on the thunder frequency and severity when deciding whether or not to abandon it. A falling barometer seems to accompany most active fish periods and the faster it's falling, the quicker the fish will turn on. Fishing before and during a storm from will be the best as a rising barometer will turn them. Three years ago I was lucky enough to be on the water as a storm was approaching. I caught 23 bass in an hour and a half, drove over four hours and fished a lake up there with better than avg. success. The majority of fish that day came on topwater. The next day brought bluebird shies and tough post frontal conditions.

You are talking baitcaster, right? Most spinning rods won't have a fast enough tip.

Caught my first bass on a punch rig yesterday, although I was fishing coontail. The pads up here are only around 4-5in. diameter and there's space between them, so 1/4oz. would work. Another lake I go to has pads that are 6-8in. and I swear you could walk across them they're so dense. I would imagine it would take an ounce ore more to get through them. Just an observation; my presentation benefited when using plastics having a more subtle action. The ones with a lot would catch the different moss. I know the stems of bigger pads want to catch on to action tails also.

Ole Monster and Culprit for 10 in. threaded on a 3/0 straight shank worm hook. I thread it about 3in. down from the head, exit on an angle and skin hook it. Weight depends on the depth I'm fishing and wind conditions. I started adding a swivel a short distance up the line as it will roll on you if you attempt to work it fast.

Not being familiar with that particular model, I can only offer some conditions that may have caused what you experienced. Occasionally your line will slip behind the spool and when that happens, it can either prohibit the spool from turning or begin accumulating around the spool shaft. In the first case, depending on your drag setting, you would still be able to turn the handle with some difficulty and possible some noise. The second thing and more likely the culprit, is that an excess of grease was applied prior to assembly. Your spool release may not have re-engaged completely despite the thumb bar returning to it's normal position. The noise you heard could have been the trip lever being struck by the cam that would normally trip it. A little jarring on your return may have been just what was needed to bump things back into place. If that is the case, it may never happen again or it could become an intermittent problem. The only way to determine the problem would be to either open the reel yourself and check, or take it to a reputable reel repair guy. You could also contact Lews with an explanation of the problem and follow their recommendations.