papajoe222

I should have mentioned that I'm pulling a Tracker TX with a 50hp Merc. My current and prior have no problems pulling it around the flat land of Illinois, but even with the upgrade on the brakes it only does a fair job when it comes to stopping. I was thinking possibly the GMC mid size SUV, But I'll likely end up with a Tahoe or Expedition. Access for momma is going to be a huge factor. Thanks for the input. I've some searching to do. Luckily I have plenty of time.

My Honda Pilot does a good job towing my boat, but she'll likely turn 200K this winter. That means I'll either be looking at dumping some serious cash into her, or looking to replace her come spring. I know it's a long way off, but I was wondering what other SUV's you guys have been using for towing. Momma can't get up into a truck, so I'll need to stick to a mid-size SUV and I know some of them just won't handle the workload I give out.

I have bulk spools of Original Stren that are easily 15 years old an have had no problems aside from the normal memory that mono has.

Hook-ups on topwater baits are always a crap shoot. At times you will find the bait half way down their throat and other times, it will be a single hook in the fleshy part of the lip. What makes it more frustrating with frogs is the fact that there is no hook at the end of the bait like the hard baits have, so it the fish just grabs the legs, you're going to come up empty whether you wait, or set the hook as soon as your frog disappears. My advice is to set the hook whenever. If she has it in her mouth, you'll hook-up.

We won't need either for the next BPC. Hard baits are going to rule both of them.

The set-up you use depends quite a bit on where you'll be using it and it what type of cover. I prefer a tungsten weight, a glass bead, braid for the main line and a leader from 12-18in. I believe a lot of fish are missed on a long leader, especially if there is any current. I like the Havoc baits because they float, but my favorite is a BK tube when I'm working it fast. A football jig will sub for a C-rig if the fish are feeding on the bottom. A drop shot is a better alternative, but like some of the others, I have more confidence in the C-rig because of the information that heavy weight transfers up the line.

I used one of them 'fairy wands' for years. It was a blast catching 10-14in. bass with, but the first time I hooked into a decent fish, it broke the tippet and now that thing just sits and collects dust. I check it out now and then, thinking I should give it a shot again, but then my common sense head slaps me and I move on to bigger things.

It's been 35years, but DeKalb county here in Illinois did a similar thing. Placed cribs, and rock piles around the lake, built a handicap deck on a point where the water depth drops within casting distance, added a golf course style club house and a tackle and boat rental shop. It was designed for fishermen and the only downside is that there is a 10hp. limit for outboards. I'd be on that lake every other week if they'd ever switch it to no wake. They introduced muskie shortly after flooding, but for the first five years or so, the crappie and bass fishing was awesome. Three muskie state records have come out of it. Hopefully, this lake is close to you so that you can take advantage of it and witness it's progression into a great fishery/

If you decide to build yourself, you can reduce costs even more by waiting until your supplier offers free shipping and then ordering the components for multiple builds. Ordering more than one blank will save on shipping costs, too.

I picked up a small frog, about 1/4oz. at my local Meijer a while back and I have to tell you it's the ticket when the bass are only swirling on the big toads. My 7ft.spinning rod and 30lb.braid and that little frog saved the day when the barometer was fairly high on Wed. I forget who makes it, Matzo or something. The only problem I've had with it is the finish cracking and peeling. Does anyone else produce a frog on the 2in. range?

Just south and east of the bridge at middle bayou, there are two points with a smaller point between them. ( in the white area around 7:00 and 8:00 of the bridge where the white section begins) There are sharp inside turns on the north side of both the small, middle point and the second larger point. I would target those points working from the tip in on the south side of the first point I mentioned, working my way into the uderwater cove and back out again. You could then continue around the smaller point and down the straight drop off to the next sharp turn out. There is a ton of off shore structure on this lake and what I would suggest is to break down a small area like I just suggested and work the entire water column. If you can establish a depth or presentation pattern that works there, you can likely use it in similar areas in the vicinity.

Mine started doing this a few days ago. There are two screws on the right side of the pedal that hold the switch in place. remove the screws and the switch will drop out. There is a boot that covers the pressure button on the switch, it likely came off and is up in the cover. Pull it out and place it over the switch and then remount the switch. If you're concerned that it may happen again, place a thin coat of silicone on the base of the boot and let it set before remounting. Be careful not to get any on the switch itself

Well, I'm at that place where I need to make a decision. Either put some money into my crankin' reel, or get something new. The bait monkey has voted (numerous times) and I'm leaning toward the new answer. My Daiwa Advantage has been filling in the last week or so, but it's a little on the heavy side and the 6.3:1 gearing is working me a little harder than I prefer and it's a little heavier that what I'd like. I'm a Daiwa guy, but I'm not married to them, just looking for something that can stand the hard work. Something in the 4.9-5.2 gear range moderately priced. I had a 3.8 Curado some years back and although a little slow, that thing wouldn't quit.

ME WANT ONE. Any idea on the retail price?

A longer (7ft.+) M/H power with a moderate to fast tip would be my recommendation. I use a 7ft.6in. M/H with a tip that I would rate as moderately fast if there were such a rating. I don't understand why you use a mono leader. Please enlighten me.

It could be a number of things. Spool tension, brakes turned on, too light of a lure for the combo, the company greased the bearings to give it a smoother feel at the point of purchase. If you aren't backlashing, you can rule out the too light of a lure or the rod being too stiff, but I'd just eliminate the different possibilities. If you're really frustrated, I'd say return it. that isn't what you wanted,

There are only two times I don't use a trailer hook. One is in the spring before the spawn, in which case I'll opt for a plastic trailer like a Kalin's Lunker Grub to slow it down and give it a larger profile. The other is when I'm fishing timber and I'll likely switch over to a square bill anyway.

Two good thoughts here. Speed up, and downsize. Seeing as the experience with live bait hasn't proved to be successful, I'd opt for the first. Speeding up your retrieve will accomplish two things. It won't give the fish a good look at your imitation and it may likely result in a reaction strike. Keep the lure above the fish and retrieve quickly, making multiple casts, Then change your retrieve angle and do it again. The only other advice I can give you is to purchase a Zara Spook before you get there.

On a hot summer day, I'd almost welcome the shower but not the disturbance. Many of the lakes I fish are small and overcrowded, not just on the week-end either. I have two choices; night fish, or accept the fact that I'm not the only one out there to enjoy myself. Unless I'm aware that someone is intentionally attempting to disrupt my enjoyment, I won't say or do anything. If they are, then I feel that disrupting theirs is fair. A quick, short run to another spot is in order and because the lake is so crowded, I just have to run fairly close to said disrupter. (I know there is no such word, but it sounds good......I think)

Stick worms. There's a multitude of ways to rig them and no matter the conditions most of them will work.

It appears to be around 16in. which, depending on it's girth would put it in the upper 2lb. to low 3lb.

I'm no expert, but the jaw, dorsal fin and coloration sure appear to be that of a spot. Do you recall what the tongue was like? If that dorsal fin is connected and rounded at the back and there is a rough patch on it's tongue, I classify it as a spot. That's a nice one, BTW. I'm guessing between 3&3.5lb.

I also do (30lb.)and I also use straight Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Water clarity is what I base my decision on. I don't use braid with a leader, it's either one or the other.

If your aim is bigger fish, I assume you will be culling, buzzbaits, Jigs with a big trailer and a SuperSpook for a kicker or two. Work the buzzer fast, the jig whatever way you think is best and the Spook erratically. I mention three because the boater may have the TM on high.

I figured it meant different things to different anglers, but what would you call what I consider skin hooking??? Arkansas hooking? Or.......? Be creative, we may coin a new phrase. BTW, How an old fart with poor eyesight Texas rigs is NOT an option.