papajoe222

As WRB stated, the night bite will pick up after a couple of hours of total darkness. Around here that's normally around midnight. That's when I break out the deep cranks and football jigs and target the deeper haunts. The fish may have stopped feeding, but will more readily attack a bait that wanders into their comfort zone at night.

I keep them in the original bags for identification purposes when I run short and use a Browning worm bag. BPS has their brand in three sizes. Either one works great. You can even use the different sizes for different types of lures. Each 'page' can hold multiple bags of baits,or you can add more of them to increase individual storage compartments.

Other than the fact that all that plastic is a bit heavier, I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'd opt for a bait with little or no salt. Many moons ago, I would fashion my own 'creatures' by melting various baits, or parts of them, together and fiah them on a stand up style jig head similar to todays shakey heads. Had a lot of succes both on smallies fishing hard bottoms and on LM in the weeds.

I'd venture to say there are bullhead (a species of catfish) in those waters and the bass like them for a number of reasons, the most obvious of which is the fact that they don't blend in with their surroundings very well and that makes them an easy target. That would be my answer to matching the hatch. On the other hand, just throwing something different than everyone else can and often is a ticket to success. That strategy put me in the money in a number of tournaments. So much so that some of the other regulars started calling me TB (TacoBell).

Aside from dropping the rod tip and reeling up the slack line (I never give a fish more time than that), my only suggestion is using a straight up hook set as with any single hook bait. Your equipment is more than adequate for the job, that's why the focus is on your hook set. Don't play a touch and feel game with the fish. When you feel that tap or see the line move off or jump, reel down and swing up. If I were a betting man, I'd bet that's the style hook set your buddy uses.

BPS and Cabellas both have top of the line raingear from lightweight summer to the Gortex 100mph stuff. I'd avoid FrogTogs because you'll end up wet by the end of the day.

This crank is very similar to their FatFree Shad which isn't produced in a silent version. The SwitchBack has a different action and is a little less bouyant, but I will still break one out when I'm looking to 'Run Silent, Run Deep' (That's for you old movie buffs)

I tend to base jig weight on the depth of water I'm fishing and in anything over 10ft. it's a 1/4 or heavier even with a short thin worm. I'm not concerned with a slow fall rate, but it's ability to stay on the bottom in one place while being shook and my ability to feel it being inhaled by Ms. finicky.

There are a number of excellent baits that will cover the depth range you're targeting. My preference is a Norman DD22, Luhr Jensen 'Hot Lips', or a Rapal DT series. Of the three, I throw the DD22 more often than not as it doesn't seem to hang up as often as the Rapala and is easier on the forearm and wrist than the Hot Lips. The thing to remember about deep cranking is that this isn't a tactic to use when trying to locate fish as it'll tire you out. Not to say they aren't what I would classify as a search bait, quite the opposite. Just as when fishing shallow cover, you need to choose spots with either a history or a good potential of producing fish. If you're not graphing baitfish in the area or actual fish, the spot had better be a proven one. I'll target breaklines and transition areas when searching out a new spot and if I can find forage or irregularities on the structure, I run over that spot from different angles until I'm confident it either holds fish or has excellent potential. If you're targeting suspended fish, be sure to use a bait like the DT's or Suspending Fat Free Shad from Bomber that will stay down or rise slowly when paused as just cranking through suspended fish rarely draws a response. Keep at it. Once you gain confidence in this technique, you can boat multiple fish from a spot in short order. Good luck.

As long as there is a food source in the vacinity, they can be both shallow and deep at the same time. That food source could very well be different in each area. Shallow fish may be relating to smaller sunfish, or other forage that stays shallow the majority of the time. Deep fish may be relating to schools of baitfish, or holding along a migration route that they use to the shallows to feed and then return to their deeper haunts. The biggest difference to me is the fact that deep fish tend to bunch up whereas shallow holding fish are normally scattered. This is the reason you see most anglers that fish shallow constantly moving while anglers targeting deep fish tend to concentrate on one area. If you have the resources to check out both the shallows and the deeper structure, you have a much better chance of being successful vs. an angler that either lacks those resources or locks themself into one area or the other.

Although a piece of grass will alter the action, you can still catch fish. If you're concerned, give the rod another pop the same as you would when ripping it free from the weeds. Often times that will clear the hooks. With a high floating, lipped crank, a pause will sometimes clear the lip, but that doesn't work will all weed types. In answer to your second question, your equipment makes the difference and to a certain extent, the type of weeds. A soft action rod and/or stretchy mono are NOT what you want to be using. A M/H cranking stick and braid or heavy mono or fluoro are the ticket. The crank you're using should have a tight wiggle so the hooks stay close to it's body and won't catch the grass as easily as a wide wobbling lure will. A couple of other things to remember are to stop reeling before you attempt ripping it free. You're not setting the hook. That extra half turn of the reel handle will just burry your crank deeper into the weeds. The other is to develop a good feel for the bait you're using, this is why I prefer a graphite rod over glass for most of my cranking. If you can't feel the bait as it starts to catch the grass, you'll end up burrying it into the grass more. This is an awesome way to trigger fish holding in the weeds.

Sound like they may have been abused, either by store personnel or yourself. I've seen the way some clerks handle equipment at some of the bigger outlets, so that's likely where the initial damage occured. On the off chance that you could be the culprit, remember that graphite is a brittle substance and banging rod tips into anything, even each other, can cause unseen damage that could result in breakage later on. Inexpensive rod socks are great insurance for rods not in use. Another thing you should avoid is leaving your rod rigged with tension on the tip of the rod. I've seen guys at the launch load rods with as much bend in the tip section it made me cringe. My money is on the store clerk

These are my two, all time, favorites when it comes to topwater fishing. Unlike yourself, however, I use them under different conditions and for different reasons. I view a buzzer as more of a search/reaction bait. It's great for covering water quickly in search of (big) active fish and although it can and does call fish up from underlying structure, it shines more when target fishing cover. As for conditions, I look for conditions when fish are more active. Overcast, breezy, stable weather. With multiple casts to the same target, you can entice a fish to hit one under tough conditions, but a Spook is a much better tool under those conditions. I prefer a Spook when I'm confident of fish location either after I've developed a pattern, or in areas known for holding fish. I'll also use one as a follow up to a missed strike on a buzzer. It can be used for targeting specific cover or for calling fish up that are either suspending or holding on underwater structure. It's great for active fish and like a buzzer you'll get some explosive strikes, but it shines under tough conditions when the fish are not in a chasing mood. The advantage then is that you can work it extremely slow and stop it any time during the retrieve. This is where many anglers miss out when fishing one. Making a comotion on top (working it fast) is the way most guys retrieve it, but they miss out when the bite is tough and this bait really shines under those conditions. About the only condition that I won't throw one is when it's windy ( I'll go to a bigger bait unless I can't controll it because of the wind), or when I'm searching for a kicker fish.

The original BaitMate (Gamefish) uses anise oil as does the newer version gel with the glitter in it. I haven't seen it on the shelves this year, so I'm not sure if it's still in distribution. My wife has been hoarding the last bottle we have. I have other attractants she won't use as long as there's a drop left in that bottle.

Two things I do when this happens to me, before switching out baits. First is to pause the bait more often or for a longer time. Definately give a longer pause when fishing water that's 20ft.+ as a fish can only make so many adjustments when it's coming up quickly to inhale your offering. Second is to slow down my presentation. I see too many guys working a top water bait fairly fast and that's the only way they work it. I'll be trailering my boat and get the 'What'd you catch 'em on/' When I tell them a Spook, they look at me like 'that can't be because I tried them. The other thing with smallies that I do is go with a bright frog or firetiger pattern. For some reason they really key on 'em.

You'll love the availability of the added thrust of a 24volt motor. I upgraded to a MotorGuide digital Tour for my Tracker and love it. Check with your Tracker dealer before running new wiring. My boat actually came with heavier guage wiring. Definately go with a three bank charger and stay away from BPS models. I've heard nothing but good about the MinnKotas. Be sure to add an in-line circuit breaker 40 or 50amp depending on the motor you choose.

Welcome to the board. I, too have had cats hit all types of artificials, even top water.

A JellyWorm has no salt, so it doesn't sink. On the other hand it isn't exactly a floating worm either, but it will stand up on the jig head fairly well and more so than some.

Be sure you're shaking on totaly slack line. Any tension what so ever will tip most of them.

I echo the braid mainline and mono leader approach. as B@ss Crazy said, you don't loose much, if any sensitivity over that the short length. I prefer Stren Big Game or High impact as they are larger diameter lines. Don't forget guys, the longer the leader you're using, the longer your rod sweep needs to be on the hookset. I learned that lesson the hard way...lost fish.

Got out late this morning and was having fairly good success with a tail spinner made by Cordell. I ended up loosing it and a nice bass. It happened to be the only one I owned and I don't recall the name and haven't been able to locate another. Unlike the majority of this type of bait that are thin and pencil like, this one is short and fat. I don't recall if I added the feathered treble to the back or if it came that way. Anyone know what they call that bait and/or where I can find one? Thanks in advance guys.

My set-up includes baitcasting gear, but a spinning rod with a M/H power and fast tip could suit you. I like braid with a leader of 18in. or so. Don't overlook Manns Jelly Worm in the bigger size. They have a small diameter that not only makes for better hook-ups, but their action is better than some of the fatter, big worms.

X2. These and Blue Fox Vibrax have taken plenty of quality bass while pike fishing.

Yep.

X2, including the welcome. A great tactic for targeting the tops of the weeds for active fish is a floating worm.with just enough weight to get it down to the weed tops. Pop it will your rod tip when it stops sinking (it'll lay on top the weeds) and let is settle back down. That's also a great way to locate any pockets as it will take longer for that worm to settle.