BIG M

That devil horse is floating in the lake somewhere. Somebody will find it and catch fish on it. Bass throw those baits very quickly after the line is broken.

This is the finest shallow running crank I've ever used. Runs approx 8 inches deep or it can wake with the best.

The ones that I make

Nice looking swimmers, you have more patience than me to do the photo finish work.

A bass will eat anything when it's in the mood. That bait is just SICK! Your skills with carving and painting are just out there, it's not really fair for us average Joe's.

Dave, both of the baits have a very clean look. Nice job

That's a very cool look rod. Now just build him a Denver crankbait and he will set.

If you look at the sub 1ft cranks on the market, all have the lip set at 75-85 degrees. I wanted mine set at 20 degrees to maintain the same action as the other baits of that style. I just keep cutting down the lip until I got it running as shallow as I wanted.

Dave, that bait has a fairly wide back rolling wobble wobble for a flatside. The lip was cut short to keep from running deep than a foot. It runs about 8 inches deep.

Here is a new color pattern I've been working on, does it look like a little crappie. A batch of chart/blue thrown in for good measure.

I've never had a bait look better. Barry that might be the finest bluegill you've painted. I bet your pops is very proud to display that bait.

I don't use screw eyes as my final joints. The screw eyes are temporary until the final clear coat is cured. Screw eyes will not seal into the bait, you can back them out once the clear is cured. You still use the twisted wire hangers for the final joints. I don't think the twisted wire will back out of the holes as easy as the screw eyes do. I'll try and get you a pic of what I'm talking about.

Dave, This is the only way I've done my swim baits. I have no idea how you can controll the fade of paint, I just paint the pieces. I've never been real concerned if paint matches perfectly. I put screw eyes in all the holes prior to primer, paint, and clear coat. The screw eyes back out real easy. That is also how I hold each piece on the drying wheel. It may take a couple of baits to get the hang of it. Hope that helps.

Looking good Barry. Did you ever find a Mama Cat?

You are not kidding, take a couple of weeks off and the brush feels like a lead weight in my hand.

I just paint each segment as I go. Start at the head of the bait and work back to the tail. I do place screw eyes in my pre-drilled holes to keep them clear. I put the bait back together 1 segment at a time also. It is time consuming but a cleaner finished for bait for me. I'm messy with the epoxy.

I think that would work. The uv stuff in the ultra v should provide protection, inho.

D, Have you tried painting and clear coating before the bait is put together. It will save you the trouble of having to clean out the joints.

Eric, I'm painting all the time and still have re-paint baits, what are you trying to say.

Barry, that one has approx 10hrs in it.

Good question D, the pic of the golden shiner did not have gold scales on the tail. So I just shot pearl white and light coat of pearl gold. Looking at the bait now I should have used a heavy coat of pearl gold.

Here is a swim bait I've been working on, Golden Shiner is the pattern and it weighes 2oz made of red cedar, med/slow sinker with a nice fishy action.

I've never tried painting over flex coat, I use the rod building epoxy over my sealer and that works very well. Just give it a try on a couple of baits and see how it works. If you are painting wood baits and the stuff doesn't work just hit with a torch for a couple of seconds and it peels off back to the wood.

I built a couple of spinning rods but that was enough of that, not my cup of tea. Besides my wife would kill me if I start another hobby. I don't think your skills were all that rusty.

I use wildlife colors, polytranspar, and createx.