BIG M

I would say flex coat is closer to e-tex than devcon. It is a 2 part system but requires at least 2hrs turning time on the wheel and then a full 24 to cure. I like to use 2 coats but sometimes I'll use 3 coats. It's a thin finish that does not add the weight of devcon. I have not tried any of the 1 part rod finishes. I not a fan of 1 part systems due to the smell. The is another 2 part system made by WASCO for clear coating mounted fish and I may give that one a try. D, there are no secrets in lure building. Somewhere every product has been tried by a lure builder. This is a crazy addiction and the search for the perfect clear coat is a never ending search.

I only use spinning gear and I throw cranks 85% of the time. It's the tool that works for me and I really suck with bait casting gear. To each his own and I'm sure the fish could less.

This is the tackle making section. What is your question?

I'll be the odd man on this one. I use 20/6 super braid for shallow and deep cranking. I don't want any stretch at all and the thin dia. allows me to fish certain baits at depths you can reach with mono or floro. I will add a short leader of mono if I banging a lot rocks. As for pulling the hooks out, just use a rod ment to handle cranks.

A couple of round bodies and a little shallow running flatside.

flex coat is a 2 part rod finish. You can keep all the 1 part stuff, I used every polyurathane in the hardware store and none compare.

I'll stick with flex coat.

That is a chicken Sh#t post right there.

Devcon 2ton 30 min epoxy, the only 1 they have that dries clear. I never paid attention to how baits I finished from 1 tube. Devcon 2ton on has a working time of about 7 min when mixed, you can thin it some with Denatured Alcohol to give a little longer working time but the clear coat is thinner.

20gage stainless steel wire is what I prefer to use. Get a nail or drill bit and fold the wire around it in a U shape. Grab both ends with pliers and twist until you get a nice tight loop. Epoxy in a predrilled hole and it will never come out.

I use super glue and a coat of epoxy. Not sure about the head cement.

I find it easier to walk a bait with the rod tip up in the 10:00 position, and I twitch the rod from 10:00 to 11:00. Maybe not the correct way but it does work for me as I fish from the bank most of the time.

Here are some mag divers, a couple of round bodies, and flatsides.

xacto wood carving knife will do. 100, 150, 220 sandpaper will cover your needs. I rough cut my blanks with a scroll saw and the rest is done with the carving knife and sandpaper.

Flex coat ultra V high build

Barry those are some sweet paint jobs and you know I hate you

Just wait until Mrs. SMFisher gets to see them in hand. Mr. SMFisher doesn't stand a chance. The pics do not do any justice to the paint. It was my pleasure to paint those baits, first jitterbugs I've worked on.

A few jitterbugs that I painted.

Barry, the golden shiner looks killer. I really like the lighter colors. Do you find it easier to paint the craw pattern using tape rather than a stencil.

John, redwood is pretty easy to work with. I would say that it carves and sands like eastern white cedar.

Here's a few different body styles and colors. A mix of flatsides, semi-round bodies and a magnum.

I told you so. Great looking bait Barry.

Here are some new cranks in a bluegill pattern. I think that I've finally found a bluegill pattern I like and can paint.

Very nice

I would not try to match that pic exact. I prefer to have my bait fish pattern to have similar colors but look a little different to stand out from the forage in the area. I think that's an edge to getting bit. bnwcrankin would be your best bet for a very close reproduction of the pic. I think he has posted some pics of that particular sunfish.