TrickyVT1887

Where are IzorLine and McCoy?

i read that the gears were more durable as well and that some of the smoothness is sacrificed as a result but i have yet to strip the gears in one of my shimanos so that isn't really a major concern to me

St. Croix's rep told me about these, they had Diawa make the reels for them.

So got the new Saros for Christmas, my girlfriend saw me eying it in the store and she got it for me. I was rather happy after unwrapping it then i opened the box noticed the screw in handle that seemed a little different from all my other Shimanos then i spun the handle a few times getting a feel for the reel and it seemed rather stiff. So i went to Gander Mtn to check it against the display reel which was noticeably smoother than mine but then i asked to see the new Stradic as well and IMO the new series of reels don't feel near as smooth as the older stradics and i took a NIB Symetre to compare to the new Saros and Stradic and it felt better than both of them so in turn i returned the reel and got another 2500 Symetre. i left happy with a new reel and a spool of P-Line and my Girlfriend left happy with some cash in her pocket. Anyone else have any experiences with the new shimanos?

P-Line is all I use on my spinning gear I use CXX in the mossy green color 8# its normally overrated when it comes to line strength so the 8 is more like most company's 10# but it does have memory I remedy that by slightly under filling my spool and tripping my bale by hand that seems to help prevent line twist a little bit but it's my go to line for my spinning reels. Baitcast I use izorline XXX Platinum but if im fishing really clear water i'm going with Seaguar Carbon Pro i'll probably try the INVIS-X this year though

1. Curado 200B 2. Curado 200B5 3. my other Curado 200B5 4. Curado 200BSF 5. Chronarch 100MG (traded it for the older stradic on a 6'6" G-Loomis IMX med because I got tired of not being able to use it fishing tidal water)

if you can tie a good knot it shouldn't matter as well as the fact that most fluoro i've used has been thinner than mono so you can get away with higher lb tests

Fluoro has never bothered me jumping off the spool but I use tough line normally on them, so my solution for this problem on spinning reels is to spool the line with the natural memory of the line as well as under fill the spool.

I compromised, I use fluoro for spinning gear on several of the crystal clear reservoirs that i fish locally where it is a must to catch any quantity of fish but otherwise i stick to Copolymer like P-Line CXX or Izorline Platinum XXX they have less stretch than mono and a lot of strength.

whichever you want all about personal preference go to a store and try out the 1500, 2500, and 4000 and see which one fits your application the best

congrats on your purchase told you you wouldn't be dissapointed

For me personally when choosing weight size specifically for T Rigs, I will go with the smallest weight I can get away with, normally starting with 1/8oz and if I can get away with it I will use 1/16 oz. When the wind picks up or i need to fish a little deeper I'll move up to 3/16 then 1/4. Typically the only time I use over 1/4 for a T Rig when flipping grass, Normally if I need a T Rig over 1/4 oz I start throwing a jig. I throw my light T-rigs 1/16-1/8 on a spinning set up with aG-Loomis 6'6" Med IMX with 8lb P-Line CXX and a 1500 Shimano Symetre. My heavier rigs I throw on a G-Loomis 6'8" MH MossyBack with 12lb Izor-Line Platinum XXX on a Curado 200B.

its $5 for a back of tungsten buy it try it if u dont like it dont try it again i used it and got "hooked"

its not a guarantee because its the fisherman that catches the fish the tackle is just a tool to catch them, but tungsten does have a superior feel than lead and its a lot easier to feel the fish pick it up and as Raul said it has a distinctive sound that neither lead or steel have.

same here the one in my avatar was caught on a white pure poison 7lb 12oz 23 and 3/4" White-Chartreuse lol had one ove 6 on a chart white spinnerbait earlier that day lol

Well if the reels retained their quality then there would be no reason for a negative perception

well Penn is the same way the lower end reels have been moved to china ever since being bought out by Shakespeare but the International is still made in the US the reason reels are made in China is for one reason to cut cost.

WHO CARES IT MATTERS ABOUT THE DEPENDABILITY OF THE BRAND The fact of the matter is many products are produced in China in order to save the manufacturer money and therefore make more money that is the whole reasoning behind companies opening factories in china. WHY IS IT SHIMANO'S LOWER END REELS ARE MADE IN MALAYSIA AND THEIR HIGHER END REELS ARE MADE IN JAPAN??? If their Malaysia factory made the quality of product EXPECTED with the Calais, Stella, Chronarch, Curado, Sustain, and Stradic why would these reels be made in Japan???????

I didn't mean anything by that but the fact that they aren't made in the same factory as the C3 and C4 reels, the staple of Ambassadors lineup i didn't state that since it was made in china means its crap but rather that it was made in a different place than the C3 and C4 reels

The revo unlike ambassadors C3 and C4 series is not made in Sweden but rather made in china, dont know if this means anything but just stating the fact

If you knew what went into the process of making then you would not feel that way Tungsten is an expensive material, its not just Tru-Tungsten, Lake Fork is the Same price. How about Tungsten Shot for waterfowl over $25 for a box it just isn't cheap.

ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM, Netbait Jewel Jigs Bandit Crankbaits IZORLINE

Why do you think that no foregrip and a split rear grip is going to add sensitivity and reduce weight. If it is a quality rod neither should make a huge difference, other than being cosmetic. One of your best options would be to take your reel with you where you plan to purchase your rod and see how it balances and seats on the rod so you have an idea of what your getting. Take the suggestions you get here and try them out see what you like personally. For me my weightless rod is a SPINNING 6'6" G-Loomis GL2 MH action. Works great for distance as well as pitching to structure, for me a spinning reel works perfect for this you have more control over the weightless bait as well as can use lighter line.

thats what the handle on the reel is for i thought??? so why do you need a separate bar to pick up slack in your line?

Probably my most successful value combo is a Shimano Curado B5 5:1 gear ratio on a Guide Series Advantage Crankbait rod. Wears you out after using it because of the rods weight but caught tons of fish on it. I also have a B5 Curado on a cheap 6ft Shakespeare rod for my spinnerbait rod I LOVE IT it catches tons of fish and the rod was given to me so its my cheapest baitcast combo. Spinning is a Symetre paired with a GL2 Loomis, a little more expensive but better priced than a stradic on a GLX :-/.