PhishLI

Great news! One vote for "not Junk". I'm tilting back. Even better news. I can chuck a frog with my Supreme XT insane distances. If the CL beats that, well, that's great too. Nice fish, and thanks for clipping your toenails!

It doesn't matter what the material is if the reel's a turd. I'm not interested in cheap plastic reels either, but Tanso doesn't appear to be cheap plastic. https://www.toyotanso.com/Products/Special_graphite/

That's too bad. I was leaning towards trying one. I'm really digging the 2020 Tournament Pro LFS for light plastics and finesse jigs now that I've got a grip on it's feel. Maybe they'll straighten the Custom Lite out eventually. I imagine the 30mm spool is super light also. Besides the problems you noted, did you get as far as fishing it at all? If so, any thoughts on it's casting capabilities with lighter stuff?

If I'm anchored up or spot locked and working an area I'm not going to love the idea of a total stranger rolling into my zone, regardless of their smile. I'd expect that another boater would not appreciate it at all if I rolled up on them in the same situation. If I pass someone when we're both on the move, no problemo. I may chat if I'm not in a rush or in the mood. If I like their vibe I won't tell them which bait is the worst possible choice or direct them to the deadest part of the lake ?

Describe your setup in detail and how long you've been using a baitcasting rig. You'll get better answers.

I was just saying that the Tat SV is better suited for throwing lighter baits consistently compared to the Coastal SV. This isn't to say that you can't with the Coastal SV or other reels with larger heavier spools, just that you need to be on top of your game minute by minute. The Tat SV shines with lighter baits and wind and gives you a bit of breathing room due to how it's braking is calibrated. Some may call it a crutch, but I'm always running my brakes on the hairy edge of a blowup, so whatever. It simply offers a braking profile that gives you a touch of slack. If rather light baits into the wind is not what you're concerned with then the Coastal SV may be the logical next choice if you want to find out what Daiwa SV is all bout. It's a better long caster. There's probably nothing you can't do with a distance tuned Daiwa like the Elite long cast, but that depends entirely on how sharply your skills are honed. If your casting mechanics have been developed around centrifugally braked reels you may be in for a rude surprise with the Elite. It's nothing that you can't overcome with practice, and several epiphanies. In the and you'll either love it or hate it.

The Elite Pitch/Flip and the Elite Long cast are calibrated differently. The Tat SV will sling true 6-7 gram weight transfer system jerkbaits on a 7' medium rod as far as you'd ever want under control into the wind with the brakes set between 4-5. Not something you'd want to deal with using a K at any setting. A full spool of line is the limitation here due to weight. The Coastal SV is just a little less capable of throwing lower weights max distances as well as the Tat, but just a tick up and it's fine. It's braking profile feels different compared to the Tat SV, but that may be due to the weight of it's spool when full. If you don't intend to go that low regularly then grab the Coastal SV. If you run your reels loose and at the lowest allowable brake settings for a given bait be prepared to adjust your casting stroke and the effort you put into the cast. It's a different thing, but you'll come to appreciate the SV nuances once you get the swing of it.

So the bait is catching air. I know, it's like a badge of honor to run with zero spool tension, but just add a touch. Nobody will know and you'll stop blowing up.

How many brake tabs do you have engaged? Spool tension setting? P.S. Is the brake ring over lubed/greased?

AJ, Please share the model # of that rod if it's easy. I'm pretty sure I spotted a few at the local F&S in the clearance rack just before the lock down.

Any reel of any brand I have with centrifugal brakes gets it's friction surface wiped with a q-tip then oiled every third outing. Oil it before your first outing. It takes very little oil and about 30 seconds per reel. Make sure you use the clean side of a q-tip to distribute the oil evenly around the ring then remove any excess. On the Tour make sure you rotate the brake dial to "Free" before opening the latch and before swinging the sidecover open. In this position the brake ring won't clash with the reel's frame when you swing it out to access the ring. This operation can be completed easily while the reel is mounted on the rod, even while you're at the side of the lake. No biggie. Small potatoes.

Spool width and skipping is something that's not often talked about. The reel with the widest spool in my pile is a Pflueger Supreme XT. When I'm skipping or pitching heavier baits it's more likely than not that I'll be using this reel, and it's precisely because my fat thumb touches nothing but the line and not the spool itself. It uses a 6 pin spring loaded centrifugal braking system, so it's essentially off for that duty with one pin engaged which is how it's set for general casting duty. So, I'm with you on this point.

Is that the non perf'd spool that weighs 13ish grams?

Me too. Same weight as a K. Spool's a bit heavy, otherwise it's a really solid reel. I have the 7 spd. My brother uses his 6 spd on a swimbait rod cranking 2-3oz wakes. Nice and smooth so far.

Sure, OK, fine, but I'm not buying heirloom objects for $89 plus free shipping and I doubt that anyone else is. A couple of pinion and gear sets purchased and set aside for that fateful day might be in order. I'll keep my eye out for a brass gear swap as some of the people that've spent a bleeding fortune on super high end Shimanos and Daiwas have had to do. In the meantime I'm enjoying chucking lures and catching fish with mine. Besides the inevitable ever looming gear meshing issues that'll arrive someday, this reel is a great performer when directly compared to current reels at it's price point. It's probably in a class by itself here with regard to distance bombing average weight baits, and that really matters to me when I'm wading lakes.

Speaking as someone who actually owns and uses one it's smooth as can be after pulling in about 25 4-6 lb fish. Nearly as smooth a my 6 speed K. It's far from gritty feeling. Maybe it will be eventually. We'll see. I've had a few reels that started changing for the worse way sooner because I'd winched fish in. Not so with this one, yet, and I've done some winching with it.

I haven't used that rod, so I have no opinion. I have a Tour S3 7.3 mounted on a 13 Omen Black II 7'3" MHF with 15 lb Big Game. This reel mounted on this rod allows me to chuck lures extreme distances, so I think you're covered there. Oil isn't included with the reel, but you should oil and then wipe clean the brake ring on the side plate. I use either Shimano Bantam Oil or the Daiwa Reel Oiler. A flush and oiling of the spool bearings, if you have a spool pin remover, wouldn't hurt but isn't absolutely necessary. Oiling between the O.D. of the inner race and the shield will break down the grease after several applications. The bearing cages might be plastic, so avoid acetone if they are, and if you decide to degrease them. Paslode Cleaner Degreaser is safe. The shields are held in with circlips.

It's way beyond decent. One of my faves for sure. I have another one on the way right now.

I absolutely missed that! Sorry! Sincerely. You didn't. I was responding to the some of the other points being made on this topic and somehow twisted your post into those. More apologies. Sincerely. Me either.

So there it is in a nutshell. "You" are uncomfortable and less than proficient here. "You" find it clunky and awkward. "You" have extrapolated your experience out to anyone else who casts right and reels left. You've projected whichever glitchy movements you have out and onto anyone else who casts and reels this way. Most of us are probably guilty of something similar, even if we only think it and don't write about it as you have. I slide up the reel using the leverage of the handle while cranking once I haven't been struck on the drop or the first few cranks. It's nothing less than graceful, seamless, easy, and painless.

Yes Don't worry about it. It's a 5/8oz crank, not a 4oz jointed wake. It'll be fine. You've a got a double supported pinion and brass gears. I use my 6 speed Curado K occasionally for the same baits.

Cast with right, crank with left. I have one righty reel with me always for casting with my left arm due to boat position or casting down the shore to the right. No hand switching for me, 'cause I'm not weird. ?

Daiwa Aird-X 7 MHF 2pc. I have one for this reason myself. It's always with me just in case. Excellent for the price. I've caught hundreds of fish on it. No issues.

Last year I tried the Yum Thumpin Dinger in a pinch and my luck with chatters went way up. Sticking with the theme of lighter, stringy, trailers I tried a Missle Baits Baby D Stroyer with the same results. They're all I use now. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Yum_Thumpin_Dinger/descpage-YTD.html?from=gshop&gclid=CjwKCAjwqpP2BRBTEiwAfpiD-2DHKej25TIEnhUgR49A4yM-YMzErbQkA85r0PYCmt5eFFl9AuD8tBoC844QAvD_BwE https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Missile_Baits_Baby_D_Stroyer_Creature_Bait_10pk/descpage-MBBD55.html

Daiwa Tatula LT 3000 CXH, Daiwa Tatula XT 6'6"MF. The reels's awesome. The rod's a good all arounder, reasonably light, and tough. I've abused mine slinging baits in tight wooded spots with branches all around me in areas around the bank. Pulled in a few 6ers. Happy with it.