CountryboyinDC

I honestly think about 2 rods cover most of the techniques you mentioned. A spinning M and ML power fast or x-fast action should be all you need. I see manufacturers separately labeling ML rods shakey head and drop shot, and I don't know what the difference would be if you need the same power rod for both. I do have quite a few more than 2, but and I carry as many as 3 when I'm fishing shallow rivers. I can use the same rod for Neko and shakey-head, etc. With the techniques you're already using, chances are you have the rigs that you need for Neko and wacky.

Mine are pretty much all suspended by 2 cam straps from ceilings in the garage, carport and basement. Canoes, I store gunwales down with a piece of 2x4 along the bottom to keep them from rolling. It's a simple, cheap solution. @GTN has a solution that supports the boats aling their length, and that would probably be the manufacturers' preference, but I've never had an issue.

I guess you could wax it with car wax, I'm not sure what the outcome would be. For me, I still put 303 https://www.goldeagle.com/product/303-aerospace-protectant/ on my Royalex canoes and polyethylene kayaks. I think most paddlers use that if anything. Unless your billiard room is exceptionally exposed to UV, you may want to wait to apply until you're ready to start fishing next year. It won't hurt either way, and it's definitely not an involved chore. I also go through and tighten all the screws on my fishing kayaks. The only things that cold hurt are things that contract by different proportions (Royalex canoes with ash gunwales were particularly problematic), but your kayak should be fine. That's a nice kayak - I considered one even though I don't fly fish. Lots of neat features.

We can't really say too much. Growing up, we could get people to help us work cows so long as they got the mountain oysters, no other pay necessary. Then there's chitlins, Yankee chitlins (scrapple), and a whole host of things that I don't believe should be consumed. I will say when I see chicken feet and combs getting consumed, I have to wonder if it's really worth what little protein you must be getting from eating it.

I'm probably safer riding with my wife while she's texting....

The Owner rig looks pretty slick, I've never used it, nor have I used the "weedguard" type tube jigs. I have heard people complain about rigging the latter. You can also use a Shaw Grigsby hook https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/eagle-claw-shaw-grigsby-high-performance-hooks and the drop shot weight of your choice. I would probably use a cylinder shaped tungsten with round hole as opposed to the ones with the 'line cutter' line tie to make rigging easiest. I looked back at some threads and this has come up before and here's a video that details it.

From what I heard from someone who bought one, it was in no way a good one. It just looked like one in the package. When you put it in the water, it looked as much like a Hudd as a model airplane (I think he said the ROF was like 1' per minute too). Hard to believe that the lawsuit hasn't been settled. Or maybe it has. A $7 poorly performing knock-off swimbait doesn't seem worth sending your lawyers to court over

If you're fishing eddys, I think you'll find a bait off the bottom is better. While I've caught fish with a jig in these eddys/trailing pools, I actually think a soft plastic itself catches better in these spots. But surely, this is not the only place to find a nice 4 lb. shoalie, even in the summer. There are all kinds of habitat that hold fish - pools above the riffle, current breaks close to banks where the water is reasonably deep, and so many more places can hold a bass. And a jig in these places may be very effective drug/hopped along the bottom. I don't think I'd try to use a heavier weight to 'fight the current', just realize that the fish are not feeding or hanging out in strong current. They are staging adjacent to it. That will help you think about how to best present whatever lure you use. A 6'6 medium Loomis would probably work well, not just for jigs, but for a lot of things you may want to use for river bass. I don't know the Shimano lines at all, but there are a lot of Shimano enthusiasts on this forum, so they might be able to advise you with the Expiride. My river jig rod is a Falcon Cara T7 6'10 medium heavy/fast. It is the least powerful MH I've owned. I love this rod, and when I learned Falcon was no longer manufacturing them, I bought another in case this one broke (I'd already broken one). I think that you may like a shorter length to start - even though there is no heavy cover that you need pitch and flip into, accurate casts will really help here.

They caught a ring poaching flying squirrels down in FL https://www.baynews9.com/fl/tampa/news/2020/10/20/florida-wildlife-officers-bust-flying-squirrel-smuggling-ring. It would be good to know what kind of fine they get. Evidently, squirrel wings are in high demand in southeast Asia.

Shoalies are about like any other riverine bass that I've fished; I used to fish for them on the Chattahoochee north of Atlanta. They are a lot like smallmouth, IMHO. Anyway, for the OP, who asking about a couple of rod tapers, namely the JWR versus the MBR. I believe that I'd rather have the MBR taper of the 2 for a jig setup for river bassing. I don't fish 1/2 oz jigs very often on the river, most of mine are 3/8 oz or lighter (some are 1/8 oz), but some have a heavy hook, like the War Eagle finesse jig. I never have a hard time setting the hook with a rod that I would imagine would equate to a medium power MBR (it's a Falcon finesse jig rod). I do use braid with a short flurocarbon leader. I think that I would feel the JWR taper a bit fast. I have an IMX JWR that I have and I like it to be sure, but river bass tend to stay aerial. Also, a lot of times, I cast above the rapid and allow the bait to be carried through the rapid into the trailing pools. I would imagine that I'd be unwittingly pulling the hook out of her mouth a lot of the time with a really fast tapered rod.

I have 1 - a spinning rod, 6'10 M/XF. I honestly can't tell where the extra $70-80 buys you compared to an Avid. I can't tell the difference between these lines; there are more and smaller guides on the Legend Tournaments (and Legned Glass), but I think they're stainless Alconites just like the Avid. That said l, my next rod purchase will likely be a Legend Tournament. They make the only USA-made spinnerbait rod with a MH/Modfast taper between 6 1/2 and 7 feet that I can find. That's the thing about them, there are a lot of models. The Avid casting lineup is just a lot more limited.

I went out this morning, obviously haven't been reading the news. The gate was closed with 2 cop cars in front of it. Maybe this will save someone else the trouble of going out there. www.wusa9.com/amp/article/news/local/missing/missing-paddle-boarder-brings-concerns-for-beaverdam-reservoir-visitors/65-7453650e-4620-420a-a31e-cd8a3df9f4a3

I also live in Vienna. Virginia, USA that is. I knew there was a Vienna in Texas and in West Virginia. I didn't realize there was one in Europe?. Welcome from a fellow Viennian.

They're great baits for river smallmouth. If you're looking for a jighead, try the Owner blockhead jig. You'll want to pull one of the wire keepers off, the bait will still stay up. You can also use a 1/0 worm hook (it doesn't have to be EWG, but that's what I use). You want to Texpose these without skin-hooking it. These baits need to stay away from other plastics, or like the Zman baits, they will melt. They are extremely hard to thread onto a jig or hook of any sort. But once you have them rigged, I get 40 or more fish out of them. They work on rivers I fish where I've never seen a Dobson fly or helgrammite in the area.

Not quite a squarebill, but for all intents and purposes that's what it is. I've caught a few good fish off a SPRO Little John in clear water rivers and reservoirs. Most of the time I use a squarebill, the water clarity is stained or muddy, when I think about it. But there definitely are exceptions - I like a squarebill next to a grass island in a shallow river for example, and those are mainly clear.

That list is generous, it even lists Penn. Penn may make a reel or 2 in the US, but look on the box of a Fierce or Battle. I guarantee it won't say 'Product of the United States.'

Ardent was the last company of which I'm aware to make freshwater bass reels in the US, and they haven't for some time. There are still fly reels, centerpons, and saltwater spinning reels made here, but for the most part your reels are likely going to be made in southeast Asia.

I've often thought that too - how did this name come about? I worked at a nursery in high school that grew about 40 acres of those gourds, and never saw one unripened that color. They may turn that shade as they rot; they end up a blackish-gray color. I guess 'green' sounds better than 'rotting'. I've found that the color that bass like most is the one you're down to your last few about the time you get to waling on them. They'll turn up their noses at everything else.

This is one of those times when I read a story and there are so many questions that I don't want answered.

I don't get to hunt much since I moved to the DC area. I only get a few days at deer camp, and there is a deer camp this year, I won't be going. I've thought of buying a little piece of land an hour or 2 from where I live, but the thought of another thing to take care of is as much an obstacle as is the cost. So there's no sense in longing after something you can't have, I'll just have to be grateful for the crowded fishing grounds here. I could probably be happy hunting pronghorn out west, fishing inshore on the east coast, or with beagles chasing rabbits in Missouri. It's all good.

I understand what lapping is for, and I don't believe that it could hurt anything (I guess you make steel rings more subject to oxidation). I have heard stories of misaligned mounts damaging the optics, I just haven't personally. Lapping scope rings is one more thing to do that probably won't get to, unless life changes a bunch.

I don't shoot or reload like I used to, but this thread made me check, and yes, the binder is still there. The main things I use this binder for pertain to brass prep for the accurate rifles (neck diameter for turning, etc.). I looked at the loads in there - it seems as though I don't need the 24 powders in my cabinet. Most of them were use IMR-4350 or H-322. I guess it wouldn't hurt to run the pages through a scanner, though.

I'm surprised by all the love for the 7mm/08. I agree, that or the 6.5/08 aka .260 Rem are in my mind the perfect whitetail rounds. I take a .25/06 or a .270 Rem. with me when I go in the woods these days. I traded my T/C Encore in 7 mm/08 years ago (I still see it at deer camp) with the plan to buy a Remington 700 Mountain Rifle in the same caliber and over time donsome 'souping up' to the rifle. Still haven't gotten to it.

I don't lap rings routinely, and $150 would be an expensive set of mounts for me. I think that if I had a hard-recoiling gun or an issue, I would probably have it done or possibly do it myself. I asked around with the more-seasoned benchrest guys when I used to compete about lapping, and they asked "Are you trying to save weight, because there's easier ways to go about it?". I do have what looks like a couple of thick dowels with pointed ends that I use to make sure the rings are reasonably well aligned.

I haven't seen those, I believe they're a new company. Pedal drives pose an issue for stand up straps. The pedal drive itself is in the line of where you would ideally attach such a strap, and no matter where you attach one, it will inevitably become wound around a pedal. The best option may be to put an anchor of sorts on the track rail on the side you don't cast from most often, this can be an eyelet like https://www.yakattack.us/horizontal-tie-downs-pair-aap-1027/ or a cleat like https://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-432U. Route your strap (I like the one Jackson puts on their kayaks) through that. Don't be surprised if you find the strap annoying to the point it isn't worth the trouble. In my pedal drive, the seat is quite high, and after I've been sitting for a while, I wish mine have one. I carefully reach for the pedal drive itself, and very gently pull myself up. I would imagine Old Town could probably use that against me for a warranty claim. Welcome, and good fishing.