CountryboyinDC

Have you actually put this in water since you did the seat modification, or are you waiting for the paddle? I'm wondering how stable that will be.

This house is pretty near the convergence of the Little Juniata and the Raystown branch. I have a panfish rod in the car. I saw some video he shot of the river by the house, definitely speaks more to brook trout than smallmouth. Let me go see how much a 3 day trout stamp costs.

I don't think I know of anyone with that exact model, but at $400, you're right, that's even cheaper than your likely to find a used 10' Wilderness Tarpon or similar. Most people have good luck with the Sea Eagle stuff. Most of them will fit in a compact car trunk when deflated.

@BrianMDTX, you might have better luck getting some responses on a paddling forum or a Facebook owners group. The water and storage circumstances you describe make an inflatable seem like a great solution. I can relate to the storage predicament, here's my carport and I'm embarrassed about how much I have crammed into the garage besides the cars.

If you're starting at Duncanon, you could do it either way, get Blue Mountain to take you there and float to Maryville or just fish the river horizontally. You could easily fish 8 hours to cross the river and come back to the Route 15 put in. That was already a pretty popular stretch, it must elbow to elbow now from what everyone's saying fishing spots are like now.

I would agree @Angry John that the Avid line is the sweet spot value/price-wise for the US-made rods. I have 3 Premiers, and they're all what I'd call accurate in the taper (2 are fast, 1 is a moderate crankbait model). They don't seem to be ultra-high modulus graphite. I think the power could have something to do with what you're experiencing comparing to the BPS rods. By the way, I have the 6'6 M-F (casting) for topwater plugs, and I wouldn't want anything faster, even with the 10 lb mono I'm usually using. I don't often use it for other baits.

The Sportsman/Topwater PDL has hull access for installing Landing Gear or whatever. They build it just like my Predator PDL with an access hatch for the rudder controls under the seat. That should suffice - you're going to be using a 'rigging bullet' strategy anyway. On my Predator PDL, I installed a 8" hatch aft in the tankwell too, for access. I think the Topwater may have that a contour feature that would make that easy, too. The question for the Topwater would be whether it has a suitable site for the landing gear. Putting them on the Predator is a huge pain because of the deck/gunwale contours, and so folks end up putting them way back in the tankwell region (balance way toward the front handle). Maybe someone like @Tizi can advise you on that.

KastKing Royale Select Fishing Rods - from Amazon, make sure that click the clipless coupon for 30% off. https://www.amazon.com/KastKing-Royale-Legend-Fishing-Spinning/dp/B072FNXC4Q?tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=f274de38b01211ea8c6842e834a7e0140INT&th=1

Another one to consider is the Native/Liquidlogic one (they're pretty much the same, Liquidlogic usually runs cheaper). https://www.liquidlogickayaks.com/product/LRVB1215.html SUPs are not my thing. I paddled this one, and like every other SUP I've paddled, I didn't get why it was better than a kayak or canoe. It tracked okay, and there's a place for your crate and cooler, and a (barely) seat. The only other fishing biased one I've used was a Jackson one and I definitely wouldn't recommend that one (think it was like a SUPerangler, or something). It was as much of a non-tracking pig as I've come across on a non-inflatable boat in a while.

I only use their straight tailed worms, and only for drop shotting. I use a color that is sort of 'segmented' looking. I had to check, but the color name is 'Peoples Worm'. Sounds sort of communist, but the fish like it. I once tried their Ned rig worms, and bought the Margarita Mutilator 3 color, admittedly because that was the funniest name on the rack. It was not a producer for me - switching back to a TRD worm did generate bites on the same jighead.

I've dated a couple beauticians before, and if they're all nearly as crazy as those 2, they shouldn't be near anyone's neck with a razor.

I don't target snakeheads, they're the pike of the tidal Potomac. Tie on a brand new Koppers $12 frog, and they're guaranteed to bite that one. 30" is a good one, but the biggest I've caught was 24" (with really beautiful coloration, wasn't mostly black like a lot of the others). I think a H/F would probably be a great rod, but there are some others on this forum that I believe fish in snakehead country more than I do like @Logan S, @Choporoz, @OnthePotomac, and others. I would guess that bass rods for whatever technique you're using to target them would work, but there may be better options.

The best academic answers to your questions are probably on the paddle maufacturers' website, in all honesty. Some, like Werner and AB like to classify their paddles in low and high angles, just as tackle sellers classify bass jigs according to certain characteristics. Like bass jigs, you certainly shouldn't let that classification alone drive what you buy or how you use it - I use a couple of 'finesse jigs' to pitch into some pretty heavy cover (War Eagle and Santone). If you're using a 240 cm paddle with an 18" blade, you're either 7'+, a fair portion of the paddle shaft is in the water during your paddle stroke (bad), or you have a pretty wide (32"+) kayak. If you have a pretty wide kayak, and you're not 7', you probably are using a low angle forward paddle stroke. But that doesn't necessarily mean that you won't prefer a 'high angle' paddle. For AB straight shaft nonwhitewater paddles, I think this leaves the Manta Ray (high) or Sting Ray (low). I've used both, and in the $200 models (carbon shaft, reinforced blades) they represent a fantastic value. I prefer theManta Ray personally, even on a wide kayak, but I am using the paddle more often for maneuvering than covering long distances, and the larger blade area is better for sweeps and draws that help with kayak positioning. As for AB styling, I've heard more than once that the graphics look like they're lost in the 80s. Maybe so, but the graphics on my ZRE canoe paddle is equally antiquated, and the old adage 'chrome won't get you home' applies here too.

Most of my frogging is done on the tidal Potomac, and I'd say that the success with them (and really anything else) is more influenced by the moon (tides) than where the sun sets in the sky.

https://www.thefishgrip.net These are almost ubiquitous on fishing kayaks. They're about $15, don't seem to hurt the fish. I use them not only for taking hooks out of toothy fish (mostly snakeheads for me, unfortunately, I made my 10,000 cast in the wrong direction to catch a walleye) and treble hooks where I don't want to use my fingers to hold the fish, but also to hold the fish if I'm going to measure it on a bump board. The Rapala gripper that @MN Fisher posted looks really similar, but I've never seen one in a store.

That's what I'm hoping. I've never seen it, let alone fished it. Where I'm from, the Roanoke River is that way to a degree. But it's not quite cold enough for the trout, by the end of July there are none left. I could usually find a 16" smallie on it, though.

This is a long shot, but I was wondering if anyone fishes the Little Juniata around Alexandria, PA often. I'm going to be staying in one of my neighbor's vacation homes for the weekend next weekend. The house is actually on the river, but I'm bringing a canoe and my son's kayak. If the river doesn't lend itself to paddling at that time, I'll probably wade in the mornings. He told me to forgo whatever opportunitiessmallies might exists on the river and borrow his Sage and go after the trout, which I'm not doing. I'm wondering if I should just drive somewhere else or fish there? Thanks.

Another option is to make one yourself using this company's components. https://mgs4u.com/product/diy-shallow-water-anchor-part-kits/?attribute_pa_anchor-rod-length=8-foot&attribute_pa_standard-or-modular=standard&v=7516fd43adaa I made 2 8' anchor pins that can be assembled to be a single pin as short as 4' or as long as 14'. It's real simple to put them together with JB Weld, and it allows you to make whatever you want. The same rod could serve as a stakeout pole, push pole, and (in my mind emergency only) paddle. They aren't super cheap, I think I have $180 or so in my setups. Before I was using electric fence poles, and getting a splinters in my hands, these have eliminated that.

I sometimes stain my mother's deck, and I generally power wash one day and apply the Lowes brand (Valspar, I think) stain with a roller the next. I think my brother uses Cabot. Nothing seems to make the decks at her house last more than a decade, and we power wash and stain every year. If you've already got a salt treated deck, I say take care of it, otherwise use composite. If the composite decking looks warped, it's because the joists are, and no one took the time to use a hand planer or jointer to make them straight. I have a small composite deck that was here when I moved here. If you're really picky, you can put some Wet and Forget on it once a year. I don't. I love the feel and look of salt treated decking when it's new. After that it's a pain.

That's what I drink most of the time. If I offer someone around here a Miller Lite or a PBR (both of which are fine with me), people look at you funny. I've compromised by buying a local but pretty common beer, Devil's Backbone Vienna Lager. It's always on sale at Norms, and it doesn't get me the stink eye from neighbors.

Yes, graphite is composed only of carbon atoms. Carbon fiber is just a form of graphite.

I bought one online (2500) at Cabelas this morning. Somebody will get a nice reel for Christmas.

You're right, it really doesn't matter, I guess. The reels are obviously solid and a little lighter than aluminum, otherwise they wouldn't be so popular. I don't care for the feel of that one, don't know if it's the graphite composition or what. I like the FK a little better, and I save $20 on each one, but I don't think this is anything other than a nice reel.

I would have thought that they would have run the name meaning past a chemist before they ran with it - surely they have someone at that company that fits that definition. Carbon has 6 electrons, helium has 4. If you look at the carbon atom as a Bohr model, I guess you could say it has 4 electrons in its outer orbital. But Shimano's ad says 4 electrons in the carbon atom, which is just wrong.

CI4 stands for Carbon Interfusion with the 4 referring to the number of electrons in the Carbon atom. Ultimately, this means CI4 is reinforced Carbon Fiber. The new CI4+ is the next generation of Shimano's CI4 material and 250% stronger. This is from a Shimano ad. It sounds like graphite to me.