SirWoogie

Sorry you had that experience and still waiting after 8 months. I only bought one rod from them, but it took 5 months to get it (April - September, basically missed most of the season). To be fair, they clearly tell you this on their website and checkout multiple times it could take 4-6 months+ (arguably yours is taking longer). Everyone should believe that estimate if it's not in-stock. Mine was a BlackWidow so don't know if that influences the time frames. The rod overall is nice, but not so much that you couldn't get equivalent feeling and capability from another brand that can get it to you faster.

I know an old thread, but chiming in myself. I have an Prov-V Bass 1875. I have an Ionic 125 for electronic and crank. Using three LiTime 100ah TM for the trolling (ghost at 36v). I always recommend using multiple batteries instead of the same voltage-to-motor approach, particularly if your trolling motor can switch voltages (i.e. 12v/24v, 24v/36v). A combined cranking/electronics for most circumstances is sufficient. I run multiple graphs, FFS, livewell, etc for 8-10 hour day and still have plenty left 50%+). Trolling, I can go a full week and still have over 1/3 still on them. For brands, you have lots of options, but if you trying to get a full contingent under 1k for everything, you're likely going with Chinese brands. I can say LiTime have been good for me, and I know others that have had warranty replacement and wasn't an issue. I've messaged support and they have been communicative. As for fires and explosions don't worry... if you stick with any lithium that is LiFPo4 (which practically everybody using for marine), you don't have that concern. They are stable and do not have thermal runaway. Two 50's likely would be fine, but if you want total peace of mind and multiple days guaranteed then go with 100ah. For cranking, get a dual purpose one (they have them in 140ah and 165ah variants). All of of that would come in less than 1k. If you want to go with more domestic supported brands (Ionic, Millertech, Monster, etc) you'll pay more (over your budget), but you'll get more local support and longer warranty. Last thing, the whole keep it to 20-80 is a rule of thumb, but not absolute. There is no issue going 100-0 then back up. I store mine at 100% all the time. The key is, don't leave it discharged at 0 for a long time (say day or less). The BMS built into all of the modern batteries keep things sane before any destruction. Even if it slightly reduces your overall full cycle charge (which is unlikely), the you will get a long lifetime. Most batteries are guaranteed for at least 3000 full cycles (most do many more). Each of those cycles roughly represents a long fishing day (8+ hours). That's decades plus worth of fishing.

SOLVED: Wrapping up the ALF sub-thread. I ended up cancelling the order. I did get a reply from sales via email. They stated inventory was about 2+ weeks out then ship. They should really revert their website to providing inventory status, or at least a feedback system that tells you upon order expected ship times based on inventory availability. I would still go back to them as they did right by cancelling and I've had good experience with them 1+ years ago. But they don't seem to be as responsive as much as they were before (even today, the phone rings and eventually to voicemail even after 6 attempts through the day) and their lack of inventory status is a big red flag. I'd suggest calling or emailing sales on inventory availability if you place an order.

ohh snap, you're right. It had been a while for me, but had a few rods wanted and they've been good with me in the past. This could be unfortunate. I'll see what happens next few days then may have to cancel (don't see an option to do that at the moment).

Is something up with ALF? I've had an order sitting there for 10 days with no status, and nobody is answering the phone nor returning messages.

The key to answering the question(s) are a few things: How long do you intend to fish on average per day? What is the trolling motor and intended graph model to install? Is the trolling 12v? What physical size/weight would you prefer for it (#1 somewhat dictates that) What budget do you want to stay within (there are low/medium/high costs, again depends on #1). The box you can do many types of things, but depends on outcome of #3. I know it was a resuscitated thread, but still good to answer.

For the boating crowd, particular to Lund.... How best did you cut holes in the storage panels to pass through cables? In my case I want to put batteries in multiple compartments and looking for advice to get a clean cut through. Standard hole saw the "ends" then metal cut to create a strip? Certainly I'd remove the panel to work on it easier. I don't have access to an aircraft mechanic. Also, I can't seem to google very well on what this would be called (it's used in the metal compartments in the trolling battery compartment). I'd like the cut to have a clean look and ensure no exposed metal, this (riveted?) seems to fit the bill. Thoughts on where to find?

Thanks. Those are the Lithiumhub/Ionic brand.

2018 Lund 1875 Pro-V Bass. Fantastic boat and got a good deal on it.

Wow, that's a really unfortunate event! As always, learning experience. I've already had my share of wallet trauma, so can appreciate the advice, thank you! That's an appreciable aspect of lithium I like... the BMS is there to step in. Now, of course the BMS isn't foolproof, but definitely is another protection mechanism to avoid over/under/spikes/damage. In addition the LifePo4 chemistry makes them more stable than even some aspect of AGM/lead. My debate now is how far do I go with the reorganization. I already have 3 x 100 Ah 12v lithium batteries purchased for the eventual move to a 36v trolling. I have the existing 3 that came in the boat. How much do I bulletproof the battery situation. (1) Find a way to keep the 2 x 125Ah (that are presently the 24v trolling duty), run them in parallel and us them as house/crank/electronic and sell the 100Ah. Issue there is not enough room in the existing battery compartment, (2) do I put a hole through a panel to expand the compartment or find a macguverian way to put them in the rod locker battery compartment and run heavy gauge back to the wiring harness and bus bar it. (3) Lastly, just do the 3 trolling and the 1 125Ah and call it a day (sell the 100 and the other 125). Maximum I ever plan to have in here long term is up to 4 graphs, 1 FFS, 2x poles, a sonar module and a ethernet hub. 1 x 125 can more than handle a full day even with all that. Might eventually put a PP Charge which gives me even greater protection. I hate letting go of good batteries, but cash is also good... the engineer in me is conflicted. This is all before of course thinking about fishing... hah.

Indeed! Waiting on a Trailer Valet XL to arrive. The driveway and apron is a sharp L so using a vehicle isn't going to happen.

Present battery wire mess. But, solid and buckled down.

Well, I appear to not have the ability to create albums in the gallery. I can add photo's to the general gallery (Fishing Albums) but can't create one of my own. Perhaps I don't have enough cred? So, attached is one pic I have. Kinda small as I can't upload anything over 500KB either. Usually pretty adept at forums, but can't seem to figure out the album creation.

Well, something came along that was to tough to pass up. Already have two Bonafide fishing kayaks (SS127 and SS107) decently equipped and those have been great, but wanted a boat to enjoy as well. Been a lurker here for a long time. So much content, advice, and fantastic conversation from all those dedicated to this activity can't thank the community enough. So with that...🫠 Picked up a 2018 1875 Lund Pro-V Bass. It's in fantastic condition overall, and had some reasonable goodies on it. Who knows, maybe that seller is on here and he will recognize as I describe. Picked up from a great dealer locally. Special shout out to @A-Jay, while I've been a Lund fan for a long time (father had a 16' over the years), I always liked AJ's layout and selection of the bench vs. XS and the size of the boat is just perfect for an all around experience. Regrettably, it didn't have the slide out tackle storage (I guess 2018 is when Lund started not offering it because of complaints in that solution), still has the empty space though. I'm also sure there was studies on whether XS or bench was being ordered which lead them to only offering an XS config. I prefer the bench as it'll be my wife and I 98% of the time on the water anyway. If I had to buy new, I'd not be able to do it, so this worked out great. Obligatory equipment rundown Black 1875 with bunk custom (single axle). Merc Verado 200 4STK Ultrex 80 24v. A Lowrance 3-in-1 is mounted on it tied to the bow graph. 1 bow Lowrance 9 HDS Live, 1 console Lowrance 9 HDS Live (notable the split of vendors). All networked. Oddly, NMEA 200 was left out of the boat. Likely to add so I can put the GPS puck on the back closer to transducer and get waypoint sync working (why does Lowrance not support ethernet or wireless is beyond me....) and stage me for motor integration and ghost. I'm a Lowrance guy, so I'll give the Ultrex a shot for now (getting the iPilot remote to get waypoint and trail working). I'd prefer integrated vendor, but I'd have to get a Ghost or MotorGuide. Likely a next year purchase, already have batteries purchased for a 36v down the road. ActiveTarget with single transducer on the trolling motor (Hey, why don't I ever see any stories on FFS? /s 😏) 2 x 125Ah Ionics for the trolling. < 10 cycles on them so far, so that's awesome. 1 x 100Ah Ionic for electronics, and 1 lead acid for crank/house. 17 cycles on the lithium (again, bonus). I've already removed the lead acid and wired to the lithium for house/electronic/crank combo. It's 900 CCA equivalent and Merc supports it (on the list for this motor). 4 bank Noku Gen Pro (4x10). Additions I might make over next year or so is swap the Ultrex for a 36v Ghost and put a 12" HDS Live on the bow (probably pick up a beatdown pole as well) and move the exiting 9" as a double on the console. Not sure I need the jump to HDS Pro and if the HD really buys enough for me to switch. Also want to do some rewiring of electric. While the gauge is in spec, I'd rather make it more robust and move the electronic connections using Blue Sea fuse panels at mid-ship instead. Well, that is enough for now. See some of you out there.