Jig Man

Are you wanting a one side or a two sided mold? You can go to www.tackleunderground.com and find out most anything you want to know about pop mold making.

The only way to figure the actual depreciation values is to take a boat and check its value over a 5 or so year period. You must use the exact boat with the same features for this to work. Your example of 2010 boats shows what BPS has done in the last 3 years to improve their product.

When you check out how fast some boats lose their value it can become a factor in what is bought in the first place. There is a popular brand which I won't name that depreciated way faster than others because of the quality. It started taking a beating when guys went to trade them in and got very little for them so many of them switched brands to keep from losing thousands. A lot of these guys stayed upside down in their boats anyway so the savings were even more when you considered the interest rates that they were paying.

Yes I do. You need spru extenders in order to help with this problem. You can buy them from places like Bears's but they are pricey when you add shipping. Some guys use sockets. I went to Lowe's and bought copper fittings that are about 1" long and set them on top of the holes. With them and pouring slowly the bait slots fill up and I get a sufficient amount of plastisol above the spru so that any shrinking will be filled up with plastisol instead of air. It isn't perfect but I rarely get voids in mine since the change.

You obviously are not like the normal fisherman/boat owner. I used to be in the business. It is just like new rods and reels coming out and guys wanting to upgrade. It is only on a much larger scale.

You should be able to power the nmea off the 520c. It is the hds that don't power the network.

Good luck on that. That would probably take a machined injection mold. The last one I had quoted to me was $400. I didn't feel like I would ever break even on it so I passed.

Considering your situation I believe MF gave you some very good advice. When fishing spinning gear I like 6.5' MF rods with reels in the 2500 size.

What does it look like? That will depend on the people willing to make it for you. Can you post a pic of the bait?

Melon pepper tubes; swimming or hopping.

Yes it does require nmea network. That unit only shares 2d sonar via Ethernet.

I do it all three ways. Todays bands are a lot better than those of the past.

You can go to www.tackleunderground.com and do some searches and get the answer to most any bait building question that you have. If you want to inject a bait of your own choosing it can be quite expensive to have an injection mold machined. The last time I priced one for a custom bait I wanted, I was quoted $400 so I passed.

I like Calhoun medium. I order it in 2 1/2 gallon jugs from Bear's. If you are just getting started, order some heat stabilizer while you are at it.

It should plug and play. The gps is built in.

I'd be surprised if you have more than 100 lbs tongue weight. If you can lift the front of the trailer then any jack will work for you. I have a rig that weighs in at over 4000# fully loaded with a tandem trailer and a 1000 lb jack has been doing fine for 12 years.

X2 Mine was made by them 12 years ago. It spends lots of days in campgrounds and has been from MO to S. TX many times. It still looks almost new.

None. All of mine will have to go for the $5 per gallon propane which is running short right now.

The PM-1 is the only battery I have found that will run an aerator, 2 structure scan boxes, 2 hds units and start my Optimax on a cold afternoon. I've been using it for 2 years now and I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.

I keep it in the boat except for stuff that is only used seasonally like Float n Fly rod. They stay in my rod storage closet in the garage. I only take my electronics off if I am covering the boat in a campground and think that they may get too hot. I keep a good insurance policy in case stuff gets stolen.

The thing you need to keep in mind is how long you will run the motor and how far from your vehicle you will get. You don't want to have to paddle back. The best numbers that you can look at are reserve amps sometimes called reserve capacity. The higher those are the longer you can run the trolling motor without depleting the battery. I'd look for 180 or more. Don't concern yourself with CCAs or Marine CCAs. Reserve is the important item.

X2 I do that on most every cast that isn't to open water. You can learn to be as accurate with spinning as with baitcasting if you practice.

I guess I didn't read you post carefully enough. I thought you were talking about max fuel consumption. I haven't hit wot in quite a while. I rarely exceed 5000 rpms. Many days I start the motor to unload the boat then start it again to load it. I try to launch where the fishing is good for that time of year and keep the running to a minimum as it costs me $35-50 for truck fuel every trip.

I have a 225 Optimax on a Champion 206. WOT a gallon every two minutes is what Merc projected when I bought it. That is close to the same as a Yammy HPDI.

I've been wearing costas for 3 years. I tried the glass lens then the gray. I couldn't see my gps screen with either so I wound up with amber.