Jig Man

I think you need to find some who knows what to look for and have them take a look at what you have and how it is rigged up. The traditional method would be 2 batteries for the trolling motor and 1 for cranking the outboard and running accessories.

You might go to www.tackleunderground.com and check the for sale section. A couple of years ago I sold several on that site.

That should be enough to last you a couple of lifetimes.

I bought mine from Cadman.

I reread it and it is hard to say since multiple batteries were mentioned with no info on the tmotor. He needs to come back and give us more info about the setup.

If his cranking battery is dropping that low then you should buy him a good one with lots of CCA. If you want to spend some bucks get the Sears PM1. I run 2 hds low units, 2 lss 1 boxes and areator all day long. I have an Optimax motor which takes several turn overs to start. My Sears agm does an awesome job for me.

You should be able to run your outboard with a 24 series battery with 600 CCAs or there abouts. As for the trolling motor, 12 V trolling motors pull more amps than 24 or 36 V so you need to concern yourself with reserve capacity (sometimes called reserve amps). Get as close to 200 reserve capacity as you can find in your price range.

I throw the rig on a dedicated setup; a 6.5' H rod, a Curado 6.3:1 reel and 50# Power Pro braid. I fish it in all clear to dingy water. I fish it at various depths. I like to crank, pause, let it drop and crank again. Last time out I caught fish right on the bottom in 17 fow. With the 50# braid I can wrap the line around a boat cleat and pull it loose if it is really hung up. Since we also can only have 3 baits with hooks. I run small blades on the other wires. I make my own so I usually carry 10 different ones. I use several different colors and shapes of blades depending on what gets a bite. Right now I'm iced in but hoping to get out and toss it in a very few days. It is a lot of fun and sometimes the bite will nearly jerk the rod out of your hand.

Cablea's guide wear didn't fit right so I bought BPS 100 mph gortex and haven't looked back.

Look up Stay in Charge. It will charge your batteries while you are motoring during the day and top them off on the way to and from the storage shed using your tow vehicle charging system.

I have always been a MG guy. I can't get used to the look of the gynormous MK foot control and they put the power button on the wrong side of it anyway.

It appears that you have already made your decision. You just have to find that second vehicle.

I'd definitely go with the chart plotter depth finder. It broadens your options.

I'm not a big Ranger fan but I'd take it over a Skeeter.

How many of those things do you have?

Yep and after lots of years using the metal pins I switched to the teflon ones. I mold with them in, leave them in to paint, leave them in to bake then take them out to finish the jig.

Cadman is absolutely correct. Follow his instructions and you will be alright. I have been pouring lead for several decades and haven't had problems with it. Just be careful and save.

$2910 is what it books on NADA for average retail.

I'm a line watcher also so I use white Power Pro.

I've been using a Bac Rac for at least 3 years. I always take it with me when I'm in another guy's boat and let anyone fishing with me use it if they so choose.

I have a rotary vise like smalljaw. I use it for all of my maribous and bucktails. When I wire tie living rubber I use a bench vise so I can pull against it. It is a lot sturdier than my rotary. When I use tabs and collars I don't need a vise.

Here in MO the Conservation Dept in cooperation with the Corps of Engineers uses 55 gallon drums with concrete to hold the trees.

Every time a new product comes on to the market lots of guys sell their current models and buy the latest toys. You can get really good buys on some very good used items if you look around.

How many are you wanting?

http://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html