Phil77

I have almost every ACB reel lews makes and none of them ever made that sound. I fish 5-7 days a week so my brakes are oiled weekly. I'd return it or call lews, they have excellent customer service. Where did you purchase it so I know where not to order from?

Sounds bad like metal on metal. Might try oiling the brake ring but that sounds like the spool pin isn't in place.

Which one of the two pictured handles 1/8 oz better? My super duty does it very well, just wondering if I should give the G a try or buy a couple more super duty's.

The zero adjuster is just a marketing sham. Most of the Daiwa reels I have cast better with some wiggle in the spool anyway. You will lose the supposed factory setting after servicing it anyways.

Had a mojo Bass Glass a few years ago when I used to deep crank and loved it. I don't see the need for a heavy action for crankbaits, most I would go is a MH but that's just me. I had the 7'2M and it was very comfortable, never got wore out on the retrieve. Think I paid 150-160 for it.

I'd like to say I never backlash but I'll get stupid in a head wind at least once a year. Five minutes or less if I'm on a school, ill switch to a backup and wait till I get home to deal with the blow up.

I rarely throw anything deeper than a square bill but I prefer mono with a medium power rod to help keep them pinned. I have had good luck with braid and bladed jigs though.

Not much you cant do with a 7MH or 7M. I wouldn't buy a rod with a number as the action.

Straight P-line CXX or straight braid, I wouldn't trust FC for swimbaits. Ditch the leader, I've never needed one and I fish everything from chocolate milk to gin clear waters tied directly to the lure.

I have the original Concept Z and it hasn't given me any trouble. I have no experience with the SLD version the gray and orange one.

My Met20 is still smooth but my main complaint is the brake adjustment dial on mine gets stuck to the point of not being able to adjust it. I have loosened the three tiny screws that hold the dial assembly in and over oiled it to no avail. The main advantage of the met is ergonomics, very comfortable reel and casts light baits very well with minimal effort on the cast. I can lob a weightless zman bangstick 50-75 feet with a wrist flick. The curado mgl has two extra brake blocks on the spool so that might help tame the SVS a little better. I don't think you could go wrong with either reel.

Mojo Bass Glass 6'10. I haven't used that one but the 7'2M I used to have worked great.

What happens if you catch a fish over 1 1/2 oz? All joking aside it should be fine if your just pitching and flipping, I wouldn't go overhead bomb casting with 2oz.

The only idiots I've seen break a rod on the hookset are the ones who act like they're setting a hook in an alligator's jaw instead of a fresh water bass. I broke a $250 dollar rod trying to free a snagged texas rig worth less than a dollar years ago, still kicking myself for that one.

Might be excess grease on the AR bearing or you assembled the drag in the wrong order. Try wiping any excess grease from the AR bearing and double check the drag washers.

200E6 Chronarch, still have three on my boat.

I've always used a 7MH, the only treble hook lure I don't throw on a medium rod.

T-rig/jig, spinnerbait, top water.

Most likely this. I've had the same issue once, the reels have such tight tolerances. I backed the spool tension off and removed the spool and put it back together. Make sure the spool wiggles when the tension is loose if not remove and replace with tension backed off. Highly doubt it's bad bearings, shimano uses d**n good bearings, my old greenies and chronarchs still have the original bearings that only get cleaned once a year.

I had a bad experience with seaguar years ago and wont buy any of their products ever again. I still use FC for a couple techniques and like it but mono and braid work just as well for me. I guess it's more of a confidence thing for most anglers. I'm using sunline assassin and sniper for a few things but still love my P-line cxx and J-Braid.

The lews tourney pro and bb1 have the ACB brake system. It's an external adjustable centrifugal system that blows the SVS system away by far. The only downside is you have to clean and oil the brake ring, no big deal takes a couple of minutes. If you're wanting a magnetic reel check out the lews Super Duty G, I bought one for dragging football jigs but surprisingly it casts 1/8 finesse jigs very well. All three I mentioned are $200 or lower and they all palm very well. Curado 200k is an excellent reel if it's dedicated to one bait, I don't like having to open it and fiddle with brake blocks and tune the dial. I seem to always have a 5-15 mph headwind so having one external adjustment saves time and frustration.

If you're going 20+ feet down do your body a favor and get a cheap 7-7'3 glass rod. Doesn't have to be fancy, but cranking that deep can get painful without a shock absorbing rod. I've been trolling dd22's for walleye for the last two weeks and occasionally fishing it near humps with an Ike Delay 7'6M I picked up used. It hardly feels like a deep crank on that rod and I'm not ready for a nap and some arthritis cream at the end of the day. The gear you have will work but will wear you out quick. I've had better luck in 20+ ft with a 3/4 Tokyo rigged paddle tail or a 3/4 swim jig with a 5 inch spark shad but that's a whole different thread.

Put about 40-80 hours on it really fishing then report back. Makes about as much sense as complaining about a boat before you've even launched it.

I'll check it out, thanks.

I have a bunch of old tap handles and just for a side project would like to make a few fishing rods with them. If anyone has done this where can I get the reel seat that screws into the tap handle and how do you attach the section of rod to the threaded part of the tap handle? These will be for decoration only on my trophy wall so they don't need to be perfect.