Great White Fisherman

Yes I wouldn't trust myself to do it right. I'd have a shop do that. But for now, it's not necessary because I have good news. For whatever reason, the old siphon valve was in fact bad. Comparatively they were identical and I thought I would end up with the same problem. But somehow, some way, the new one works and the old one didn't. No surging at full throttle! I'm so glad it isn't the pump, I wasn't in the mood to tackle that. Electric or otherwise...expensive! I appreciate your input though, really. Yes, I do alot of looking around and I post to different forums. I prefer to get several opinions and have options to try.

Thank you. Now I did some looking around about installing electric pumps and everything I've found says NOT to do it and to not use it as the primary pump, only as a momentary primer. Some mention that it will flood the carbs and possibly blow seals when at idle because the flow is constant instead of variable in relation to rpm like with a diaphragm pump. What say you?

I'm a little concerned at how cheap electric pumps are. I found some high dollar ones but most were under $50. Is this normal or am I looking at the wrong stuff? One of them mentions 6-9 psi

I actually posted it *here* looking for better info, sir. I liked your answer too, it's a shame, I was wanting to read it again but now it's gone... Is it really a problem to get different opinions? Regardless of where the perceived greener pastures are? As I said, I came to BR looking for better advice because I wasn't getting much on iBoats. Seeing as you obviously had a problem with it when you believed it was the reverse, you should now be happy. I had some questions about the electric pump conversion. Namely, estimated project cost and recommended pumps.

The engine runs pretty well, except that between 3/4 and full throttle, it will lurch. Speed will drop for a second then return for a few seconds and repeat. It doesn't do this, or at least far and few between, when below 3/4 throttle. A search revealed it could be the fuel pump is weak or a bad coil causing misfires. The fuel pump idea sounds like just the ticket based on how it behaves at higher speed. But before I go buying a $600 part, $200 on Amazon or eBay, I was thinking perhaps a bad fuel filter could be to blame. I replaced the external fuel hose with one off my other boat and it has an inline filter barely a few months old. The one inside the cowling looks original and being an 87 model.....ya. So I pulled it and replaced it with a brass coupling. Cut open the filter to see if it was clogged and it was actually very clean. I could see through the mesh screen. So it wouldn't appear that it was the issue. I would like to avoid fuel pump replacement unless necessary. So my next idea is junked up jets on the carbs. I plan on using a portable 6 gallon tank with a can of seafoam and running it full throttle till it runs out and hopefully it fixes or lessens the problem. Good idea or no? Otherwise, I have to pull the carbs....not something I'm too keen on doing. Note - I have the VRO disconnected at the harness and the hose because of reading on another thread that they can destroy a motor if they go bad and that usually the first sign the VRO has gone bad "IS" destroying the motor. I don't want to take that chance so I'm sticking with 2 stroke gas in the tank....could that be the problem?

Thank you for your input. Been awhile without any answers. So I've looked through every diagram I can find, searched google to no avail, and did a visual search all over the motor. My real question here is what does the temp sensor do when it's activated? It runs straight into the power pack. And let's say I were to retrofit a buzzer, would having it disconnected from the power pack be an issue? I wouldn't think so because under normal operation, it's just a dead end wire. So back to the big question, what does it do when it overheats??

Model - E25RERC I found that this motor has a temp switch that traces back to the power pack. However, I can't find a buzzer or horn of any kind. All the wires that come from the power pack are in use, going to the stator, coils, and ground. So am I missing something? And if there is no buzzer, what happens when it overheats? Does it short the power pack and shut the engine down? That's my only guess at this point.

A little background first. Those who know about these little motors know there is a water bypass plate right above the anti cavitation plate. When I first got this motor I wasn't sure what this plate was for but I had a feeling it had to do with the water intake. My suspicions were proven true when I was running in a barrel and allowed the water level to slowly go down until the plate was exposed and the pisser ran dry. I shut it off immediately of course. So with this in mind... From bracket to cav plate is 17" and my transom is 16". Everything I've read about proper mounting says the cav plate and keel should be as close to level as possible so that the cav plate will ride the surface of the water at high speed. That's all fine and good till I thought about that water plate. If the cav plate is on the surface, the water plate will be out of the water. What should I do? Leave it an inch low? Or will the plate being exposed not matter when going at speed?

I don't know where I'll find a worm that big...and a castable one at that

Yes, but the ones I try to catch are a distance away. There's no way they can see me because of refraction. I can only see them because of the sun shining on them and the lenses. And the feeding continuously part, that's why I've tried different times trying to find their feeding time. No dice

Oh yes! No doubt. Only thing in this pond is gills and bass

I've heard Spring prespawn is a great time to catch bass. Well, in my experience, that is entirely false. Locating the fish hasn't been an issue because I wear polarized lenses when I hit the pond, I can SEE the bass floating around, and in numbers! It's remarkable actually. So I can see where they are, I cast past them, and work the bait right up to them. What do they do? Act like it doesn't exist or sometimes run away like they're spooked. What's the deal?! They're not hungry? Senkos freak them out? I don't get it. I've tried all kinds of lures from jigs to cranks to plastics and fished in the morning as well as noon (I work nights so evening is not possible). I don't understand how I can bring it right to their mouth and they turn away...

Yes, finances dictate my options plus it's on a kayak which always has the potential to flip so I'm not too keen on having a high dollar piece of equipment on it lol. And this one does have Chirp and it's much crisper than on the same frequency without. However, options for setting any kind of density don't exist in the menu. I think I'll do much better when I go out to some cleaner fishing spots

I took this little tidbit about air bubbles and did some research. Turns out, hydrilla stems are packed with air cavities from the photosynthesis process. This would explain why it shows a strong return. On the same note, I always see bubbles rise up when a turtle is moving on the bottom so that leads me to believe that either the roots/tubers or the mud on the bottom is also packed with air bubbles giving a strong return as well. With this information, I've come to the conclusion that it is pretty much impossible to tell the bottom apart from the hydrilla. Maybe in the dead of winter when it dies off I can get a good contour. For now, I'll have to just go off of the softer returns underneath the red to guage the depth, just subract a foot maybe. This hydrilla business is just more and more annoying. Hard to fish it and now it screws up my sonar ?

I've read it, watched videos, played with all the settings, all the gain levels show the surface clutter just more and thicker the higher it is of course. And going lower shows much less on the screen as in shallower. The only way the graph will dip to the 20s is on high but like I said, there's no difference to show a defined bottom between the vegetation and the mud