The engine runs pretty well, except that between 3/4 and full throttle, it will lurch. Speed will drop for a second then return for a few seconds and repeat. It doesn't do this, or at least far and few between, when below 3/4 throttle. A search revealed it could be the fuel pump is weak or a bad coil causing misfires.

The fuel pump idea sounds like just the ticket based on how it behaves at higher speed. But before I go buying a $600 part, $200 on Amazon or eBay, I was thinking perhaps a bad fuel filter could be to blame. I replaced the external fuel hose with one off my other boat and it has an inline filter barely a few months old. The one inside the cowling looks original and being an 87 model.....ya. So I pulled it and replaced it with a brass coupling. Cut open the filter to see if it was clogged and it was actually very clean. I could see through the mesh screen. So it wouldn't appear that it was the issue.

I would like to avoid fuel pump replacement unless necessary. So my next idea is junked up jets on the carbs. I plan on using a portable 6 gallon tank with a can of seafoam and running it full throttle till it runs out and hopefully it fixes or lessens the problem. Good idea or no? Otherwise, I have to pull the carbs....not something I'm too keen on doing.

Note - I have the VRO disconnected at the harness and the hose because of reading on another thread that they can destroy a motor if they go bad and that usually the first sign the VRO has gone bad "IS" destroying the motor. I don't want to take that chance so I'm sticking with 2 stroke gas in the tank....could that be the problem?

I deleted my post since it's not needed.

I see he posted the same question on iBoats and figures they have better info over there, so it looks like wasted time trying to help here so I figures no need taking up web space with help someone doesn't want. 

My outboard was running rough and try to stall at high speeds recently. I replaced the plugs and the fuel filter. I have had it out once since then and it started and run like it was supposed to.

On 8/9/2020 at 2:14 PM, Way2slow said:

I deleted my post since it's not needed.

I see he posted the same question on iBoats and figures they have better info over there, so it looks like wasted time trying to help here so I figures no need taking up web space with help someone doesn't want. 

I actually posted it *here* looking for better info, sir. I liked your answer too, it's a shame, I was wanting to read it again but now it's gone... Is it really a problem to get different opinions? Regardless of where the perceived greener pastures are? As I said, I came to BR looking for better advice because I wasn't getting much on iBoats. Seeing as you obviously had a problem with it when you believed it was the reverse, you should now be happy.

 

I had some questions about the electric pump conversion. Namely, estimated project cost and recommended pumps.

To eliminate the fuel pump buy an inexpensive one @ an auto parts place and run the boat with it installed somewhere near the tank.  Do only one thing at a time when troubleshooting.

I'm a little concerned at how cheap electric pumps are. I found some high dollar ones but most were under $50. Is this normal or am I looking at the wrong stuff? One of them mentions 6-9 psi

Don't screw around with those cheap vibrating pumps, they generally won't work.  You motor can burn as much a 20 gallons per hour (GPH) at WOT.  A lot of those little cheap pumps only deliver 5 to 10 GPH.

 

This pump is the one you need.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60898.  This pump has the 3/8 fittings and the perfect pressure for your system.

Connect it using a relay from the key switch through a 10 amp toggle switch on the console.  That way, when you turn the key switch on, the pump powers up, but just incase you need the key switch on, but don't need the fuel pump on, the toggle switch lets you turn it off.  DO NOT install it to the key switch without a relay, the switch is not designed for that much of a load and can burn your key switch up.

Starting is like a DFI, just turn the switch on, press the key in to prime it a couple seconds and it fires right up.

Mount the pump at the same level as about the middle of the fuel tank.

You can leave the factory pump and just bypass it.  I generally take if off, but if you do that, don't forget to remove the pulse valve and plug the hole it's treaded into.  The pulse valve is that brass looking fitting in the block that a line from the factory pump goes to.  

Thank you. Now I did some looking around about installing electric pumps and everything I've found says NOT to do it and to not use it as the primary pump, only as a momentary primer. Some mention that it will flood the carbs and possibly blow seals when at idle because the flow is constant instead of variable in relation to rpm like with a diaphragm pump. What say you?

After reading my post again and your skepticism with all that junk on iBoat,  I figured probably your best bet is to go with a pump designed for your motor.

 

 

On 8/16/2020 at 10:58 PM, Way2slow said:

After reading my post again and your skepticism with all that junk on iBoat,  I figured probably your best bet is to go with a pump designed for your motor.

 

 

Yes I wouldn't trust myself to do it right. I'd have a shop do that. But for now, it's not necessary because I have good news. For whatever reason, the old siphon valve was in fact bad. Comparatively they were identical and I thought I would end up with the same problem. But somehow, some way, the new one works and the old one didn't. No surging at full throttle! I'm so glad it isn't the pump, I wasn't in the mood to tackle that. Electric or otherwise...expensive! I appreciate your input though, really. Yes, I do alot of looking around and I post to different forums. I prefer to get several opinions and have options to try.