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LOL, That was the Cadillac that WAS a Cavalier. It didn't just look like one.

$150-$200 might be enough to get you a top grade blank to build a rod on. There are some good blanks for less, but not as good for the most part. Top notch guides add another $50 or more. It cost me at least $250 to build a a rod based on a really good blank like a Loomis LMX or Phenix K2. The bling, state of the art handles, and custom reel seats isn't included in that. Your average $150 rod would start with a pretty mediocre blank I would think maybe $40 or so. If someone can't tell the difference, so be it, but I sure can.

I have Megabass rods and I also build some of my own rods. I do some Megabass style guide wraps on my own rods without a whole lot of issues and I'm not as as good as someone who does it for a living is. As for guides, Megabass usually if not always uses whatever are the premium Fuji guides of the day so they should be pretty easy to look at and figure out what they are. ? Blind guy with Cerebral Palsy perhaps?

Funny, he was talking about buying a Pixy....I'm still using them for light baits..

Fenwick is big in Asia. I think the Gold Wing is still offered. https://www.7seasproshopthai.com/categories/rods/fenwick-golden-wing-pro-edition-fgws902mh-spinning.html This one is about $140

Well, it's a fishing forum not an engineering forum and I try to keep things simple and still get the point across. Though like Einstein said," Keep things as simple as possible...but not any simpler."

??? A limp line will be dead for sure. A line capable of deflecting the rod tip, even a tiny bit is not a limp line. Those changes in forces, pulling/moving/etc, are what is causing the vibrations I'm referring to. Technically speaking I suppose that the line itself is not vibrating as much as it is the vehicle the action of which causes the rod to vibrate. This exactly what happens as you drag a wacky head across the bottom or whatever. Each tiny little tug and pull as the lure rides over little pieces of gravel or whatnot displaces the rod tip and the rod oscillates as it tries to recover its resting state. Every tiny change in tension will cause a vibration providing that it is not a constant force. But it is in any case the line which carries the original input. I've fished rods that dampen almost all vibrations and all you are left with are the tugs and the large shifts in weights. That is because the rod dampens vibrations well. I have other rods through which you can feel much more, even texture changes in the mud and individual pebbles. Vibration might be better described as an oscillation that occurs as a material, electromagnetic wave, or other medium disturbed from a state of equilibrium settles back to that state of equilibrium. And for the record, a vibration is not limited to sinusoidal wave forms. There are examples such as a jointed pendulum in which oscillation is random, or structures such as trees that are fractal systems which may develop all sorts of wave forms as the wind blows. The sound of a trumpet is not a sine wave (though it is a derivative). I don't know where you are going with the reference to the modal response of the rod. I would expect that the resonant frequency of the rod and the associated harmonic nodes and the overall frequency response curve would play into how sensitive a rod is to various differing vibrations, but if this discussion isn't already in the weeds, going further down this road would certainly be less than useful for most I think.

I would say that the vibrations travel mainly through the line and the difference between a sensitive rod and one less so is that the less sensitive rod dampens the vibration more than the more sensitive one does.

Yep, aluminum is anodic to all other metals except for zinc and magnesium. But the effect differs with different metals. For example aluminum is much better next to steel than it is next to nickle/copper. Any dissimilar metals in contact will experience some galvanic corrosion. It is simply a matter of how much how fast and which metal is going to do the corroding.

That's possible I guess. I see ads saying they are made in the USA. But then, their website doesn't mention it and I think they would be putting it out front if they were.

Hell man, I've been fishing for 50 years and still have a few days like that every year. But once you have a good day, you'll know why you keep doing it. Way to go BassWhole!

Well, the closed faced reels are cheap which is great for someone new to fishing who isn't sure if they will even like it. And they are super easy to use...if you can get them to work that is. They are mostly bought for little kids for these same reasons. I know you are brand new, but at risk of offending you a little I'll just say it right out. If you think that you want to stick with fishing, put the closed faced reel and the cheap lousy rod that they sold with it in the garage and save it for when one the kids break theirs. Then go out and buy a decent spinning rod and reel which is the next easiest type to use. A decent beginner rod could be had for maybe $60 and the reel for around the same. I know that might seem expensive, but keep in mind that a great rod and reel setup could be $1000 or more. But you don';t need that to start with. If that is too much for your budget, I'm sure there are guys here that would help you out with a really good deal on a used setup. What ever you do, most of the time you'll do better steering clear of the rod and reel combos for sale. They almost always pair an OK reel with a crap rod or visa-versa. The folks here love helping the new folks out, so feel free to continue to seek advice while you are trying to decide if and what to buy. Just a warning though. I started out with a Zebco 33 combo 50 years ago. Now, I've got 40 rod and reels and had to have a boat, trolling motor, sonar, etc. ...oh, and a truck to pull it with, and at least 50 boxes full of lures, hooks, etc......Just saying, that once you take the first step down the road it's hard to say just where you will end up.

I think all of the Falcon rods are still made in the USA except for the HD series. They used to use blanks made in the USA too, but the supply fell through and they had to go overseas to have the blanks made. You're right about them getting beat up over it though, they still are. In fact I'm pretty sure that someone will be along shortly to prove it.

Could be that people are recommending the same rod for both applications, but not the same line which would to me imply that you would probably want 2 of that particular rod if you wanted to do both at the same time. Example: "Rod XYZ is a great rod for Carolina rigs when spooled with 15 flouro and is equally adept at throwing football jigs if spooled with 12lb Flouro." I would simply read into that s saying that it is a sensitive rod for bottom applications that has enough backbone to set the hook at a distance.

It is the same stuff. It is a dry lubricant. You can buy it as a dry powder but it's kind of a pain. They both are mixed with a liquid, and in both cases the liquid evaporates leaving the dry powder in the bearing. They both come in just about any size you want to buy it in and it's cheap except for when it is sold in little bottles to fishing geeks. I buy it in 8oz. bottles for about $4-5. It's about $.75 an ounce retail by the gallon and stupid cheap by the drum. It's a widely used industrial product and is often sold by the 55 gal. drum. There is some difference between the 321 and the 301, but it is not a different material or anything, but simply that the 301 is mixed with a solvent and is not compatible with many plastics (which is why it comes in cans) whereas the 321 is not mixed with solvent and is safe for use with most plastics. Other than that they are the same thing. There is no oil in 321. Unlike a lubricant like oil which temporarily fills in microscopic imperfection in the metal surfaces to reduce friction, but which adds a bit of rolling resistance as it does so, the powder fills in even tinier imperfections and bonds with the surface of the material leaving no residue and adds no rolling resistance. Engineering specs show no deterioration over time or with pressure and temp effects. As for me, I'll just stick with the 321 since most reels have plastic parts, but either works fine as long as you remember to let the bearing dry out completely before you put them back into the reel.

My understanding is that it is the same stuff. The 321 is just in a suspension making it easier to apply. If the stock bearings are still good, I think you'd be good either way with jerk baits etc.

I'm not an expert by any means, but I have run into that problem when I've tried to apply the resin with a paintbrush, as in painting it on. I have better luck just using the brush to sort of drizzle the material onto the top of the rod. I put so much on that it starts forming drips at the bottom and then I use the brush to soak those up without actually touching the rod. I think using the brush to paint it on is what just makes it wavy. The idea is that if you have an excess so that it is almost dripping over the entire length, then it should all settle to the same uniform depth...oh and lots of heat. Also I use thin build resin there so that it doesn't end up too thick.

I guess it kind of boils down to what you have fished with to compare the sensitivity of a rod and everyone will see it differently, but I tend to agree that Dobyns rods are not very sensitive. Well built? Well balanced? Yes, but not very sensitive.

For bass? NFC 721-1 LMX X-Ray XF, with a Daiwa PX68 and a stock spool.

I am hesitant to say that anything is anything for sure on a fishing forum. As soon as I do, a half dozen people come out and argue that it isn't. I will say, that the ceramic bearings make enough difference to ME that I've changed to either ZPI or Hedge Hog ceramics on more than 20 of my bait casters. But on the other hand I don't normally change out the bearings on brand new higher end Daiwa or Shimano reels unless it's going to be for really light baits. Both companies use very nice bearings in their reels. But, I would recommend that folks put away the oil and try the TSI 321 lubricant. In my experience that makes a big difference in the way that bearings perform. The PX68 with a stock spool and (good) original bearings ought to be decent with down to 1/8 oz. or so. The ceramic bearings would help a bit with the original spool, but would I think be a must for the ultra light aftermarket BFS spools.

Although I've fished all the other Falcon rods including the Original brown colored ones. I regrettably never had a Cara. Even the $69 HD rod fishes like it cost much more. I'd put them up against the lower priced St. Croix and Dobyns rods as well.

I get it now. I've used that type before, and do like that they have that little cup that catches the pin and also that they are good at precision. But on the other hand, they are slow and I've had them strip out on the really tough pins. But maybe the ultra expensive Daiwa tool is made of harder material. I've lost a few pins with the pliers, but I don't mind much, I often will put a new pin in anyway so I always have spares. I just went with the Boca pliers and haven't had a reason to look back yet.

I'm not familiar with a Billings tool so I can't really comment on that. The pliers have a pin that was able to push out any pins that I have encountered, but my reels are limited to Daiwa, Shimano and Abu. I think the pliers would work on the spool that you show as you only need maybe 1/16" clearance, which you have if the Daiwa pin pusher works on it. Is the Billings a brand or type of tool?

I've been telling people for years that Falcon makes what I think are the best rods going at the under $200 price point. But on this forum, most people recommend either St. Croix or Dobyns rods to the newbies so that's what people usually buy and then recommend to others down the road, often without the benefit of even fishing something else. I've tried all 3 and for my money Falcon is the one. I find that they compete favorably with rods costing $200 or more in some cases. I'm glad you found a circumstance that allowed you to try one. I'm pretty sure that you'll agree with my assessment. Most folks do once they give Falcons a try.

I changed all of mine to the Hedge Hog Air BFS. They are excellent bearings. I never use oil on them, only TSI 321. Using oil slows the ceramic bearings down, especially the BFS bearings with the tiny ceramic balls. As you say, you will need a pin removing tool, but not necessary the Daiwa tool. I use and prefer the pliers type of pin remover. Many people say it is difficult to use, but I don't agree. I think they are quick and easy. I think the tools like the Daiwa remover are tedious and slow. But they usually work too.