DontTreadOnMe

hi fellas, can anyone please recommend a good landing net for canoe use? i guess mainly to target bass and walleye, but really for anything i may catch in small to medium sized lakes in the midwest. perhaps even pike, who knows. it's a three-seat, 15-16 ft canoe that usually has two guys in it (occasionally three), so there's a bit more room onboard than many kayaks. however, it's not a huge boat, so i was thinking maybe some kind of folding net would be good. what would be a good compromise? i'm considering a frabill powerstow 8510, but i'm wondering if the 27" net depth is not enough. the norseman stowmaster series also looks decent, but again, i'm not sure which size would be the best compromise. thanks

but if you do want an actual tool for such things, it does exist ? this is a coin driver by pb swiss. they make a couple of variants: model 8125 and 8126 i enjoy using it. i hate struggling with coins on stubborn plugs and caps.

interesting https://www.mudhole.com/Flexcoat-Polyurethane-Reel-Seat-Arbors so i'm guessing some kind of light adhesive was used along with that, and the arbor just partially disintegrated and failed under torque?

i was in park falls not long ago. i should've brought it in! i'm not going to be there again until next year probably, and even if they'd fix it for free, i don't want to pay shipping to send it to them for something that i now know is an easy fix. i just got done gluing it, and i'll share my experience here in case it's useful to someone. after drilling the holes, unfortunately the cavity was full of some kind of foamy glue. at first i wondered if it was a polyurethane glue, but it's way more brittle and weak. i was able to scrape at it and turn it to dust without too much effort: anyone know what kind of adhesive that might be? almost like a brittle spray foam. i can kind of see why they selected this adhesive. it's probably semi-permanent and facilitates future repair or replacement of the reel seat, which is a nice thought. on the other hand, i also see why it failed. it's not that strong of a product tbh. so because the cavity was full of it, i knew i wouldn't get good adhesion. i probably wouldn't have even been able to inject much epoxy. so i expanded the lower hole into a slot and scraped a bunch of it out. i turned the seat, scraped, and repeated until i made a full revolution: ] then i masked it off (taking special care to protect the reel clamp threads below), and it was ready to accept some epoxy: i injected glue into the slot as i rotated the reel seat and made a full revolution. i also injected some into the top hole for good measure. thanks again for the good repair tip.

cool, i put on some 40lb to try! in the reel's instruction manual, it recommends wrapping 3-5 turns of line around the spool before tying the knot. i tried that, but i couldn't get it to not slip. i wonder if daiwa's method works for mono but not braid or if i was just doing something wrong? so then i tried electrical tape over the knot (and a second piece 180° away) as suggested. used 3M Super 88 since that's what i have (my fav electrical tape). worked much better. i wasn't sure how much braid to put on. obviously, i spooled it up more than half way, but is this too much line?

great idea, thanks. where would you drill the holes? does this placement look reasonable (see red dots)?

i bought a refurbished st croix triumph rod in person from the factory, and it's my understanding that there's no warranty. i haven't contacted st croix yet about it because i'm assuming it's a waste of time. unfortunately, after not much use, the reel seat freely rotates. the reel easily spins out of alignment with the rod guides. let me illustrate: the red part spins freely about the rod axis with respect to the green parts. for now, i have taped it up with gaffer tape so i can use the rod, but this isn't an ideal solution. is there any way to get the cork handle off and properly glue on the reel seat to the rod/blank? i'm guessing you can't remove the cork without destroying it i also probably don't understand how it was assembled. any advice? here are more pics of the failed rod next to another of the same kind: thanks!

i ended up getting a refurbished dobyns 704C in the discontinued savvy series (SS 704C). it was $100 shipped. i received it today. dobyns shipped it fast. has some obvious signs of use and some scuffs. it seems like a pretty nice rod, but what do i know. for the reel, i got a 2020 daiwa tatula sv tw 103HS L. that's the 7.1:1 with left hand crank. i'm right handed, and i'm wondering why so many people go for right hand crank. in fishing videos, i see such people passing the rod back and forth between their right and left hands between casting and reeling, and to me this seems bizarre and awkward. hm. my impression of the reel is that it seems nice enough, but for 180-200 bucks, i was really expecting a more premium feel. though it's made of metal afaik, it has a very plastic-y feel to it. but i don't really care as long as it works well. again, what do i know. i'm just sharing my noob impression of it. i first ordered the reel from dick's with their 10% off coupon for joining their mailing list (and shipping was free), but i later realized it was the older 2017 model. since i never mounted or used it, i'll return it next time i'm near a.....forgot how to use English's. i then got the 2020 one from tackletrap with 10% off code TT10. unlike dicks, i wasn't charged tax, and i appreciate that. they also shipped pretty fast although they didn't send me a tracking number or a shipment notification email. since i happen to have both reels, here are some comparison pics of the old vs new tat sv tw: Daiwa Tatula SV TW 2017 vs 2020 Image Album there's more angles in the linked album. if you want a closeup of something specific, let me know. tbh it's hard for me to notice a difference in size between them. from what i had read, i was expecting the new one to be noticeably smaller. they shaved off 13g though. ------------------------------------------------ ok, some questions: i have 30lb and 40lb spools of sufix 832 braid in front of me. should i go with 30lb or 40lb? i've heard that 40lb digs into itself less and rips through grass and water lilies better if you get a snag. but of course 30lb is thinner and lighter. thoughts? and for the SV gurus, do i need to put a mono backer on this, or should i just do all braid? i was thinking of doing all braid with an arbor knot and a small piece of scotch tape over the knot. i don't care about wasting a few dollars' worth of braid. also, i understand that the idea of SV is to make the spool as light as you can so it has less inertia (well, rotational kinetic energy to be more precise) while spinning. so should i only spool it up 1/2 - 3/4 of the way? i read that some people do that. thanks, everyone

well, i had mentioned that i was interested in Sierra because i read that the guides are better, and that was his response. i didn't ask him for all the differences. perhaps the sierra is a little more sensitive or something. also, the cork handle is higher grade.

gary dobyns got back to me, and he said that between 703C and 704C, he'd go 704 for more versatility. he also said 734C would be another good option. i'm asking his staff to check for 704C and 734C refurb availability in Fury and Sierra. between the Fury and Sierra, he said that though the Sierra guides are made by Fuji which is a more popular and more expensive brand name than the Sea Guide brand ones in the Fury, the Fury guides are just as good, and he's in fact seen fewer failures in the Fury guides than Sierra guides...

rock on. thanks, guys. for the reel, i'll probably get Daiwa Tatula SV TW 7.3:1 (TASV 103HSL) for the rod, i just emailed dobyns asking if they have any refurb/demo rods like sierra 703C, 704C, or similar (even in other series). i also explained my situation and asked for general recommendations. also, i'm on the lookout for daiwa tatula rods on ebay like that 7'1" MH/XF (i think TAT711MHXB). it looks like there are some deals to be had. does that sound reasonable? and for line, perhaps i'll try sufix advance in 12-15 lb. if i try braid, what's a good one?

ah, really? whoops. guess i'll stick with fury then!

thanks for the awesome suggestions, everyone! they're very helpful, and i really appreciate it. i'm definitely taking a hard look at Shimano Curado K ($180) and the Daiwa Tatula SV TW ($200). from my research so far, it looks like i couldn't really go wrong with the curado k. seems like an awesome reel all around. the tatula sv tw also looks baller. apparently designed to be forgiving on backlash issues, but it has a smaller spool which may or may not be a bad thing depending on how far you want to cast. i also saw one guy complain about inadvertently adjusting the controls all the time. i found a thread on another forum (apparently a Voldemort situation here) comparing them with many nice things to say about the sv tw. a guy named "5 by 3" said: i might be leaning towards the tatula sv tw given that i'm totally new to baitcasting, and it sounds pretty forgiving. i also thought i was set on a 7:1 gear ratio, but is that too fast for everything except frogging and flipping n pitching? would 6:1 be overall more versatile, and could i still pitch n flip if i want? as for rods, dobyns fury looks pretty awesome. i'm also eyeing the dobyns sierra now too since it's not that much more expensive. if i got the curado k or the tatula sv tw, which sierra rod do you think would go best with it? i was looking at the SA 704SF (7'0" 10-20 lb, 1/4-1 oz. Medium Heavy Fast Action). but now i'm reading that the rod power doesn't perfectly translate between the fury and sierra lines, so i'm confused. also, is there a reason that i should just stick with a fury instead?

ballpark figure perhaps around $300 for a rod and reel, could spend more or less. if i buy another setup, i want it to be because i want to fish a different way and not because of upgrade-itis, if that makes sense. but with that said, i'm probably not about to buy shimano's flagship reel or something (guessing that's 500-1000). thanks, i'll check out that sufix advance! i'm guessing it doesn't sink like fluoro? fuego is one i'm considering. also, someone else just recommended dobyns fury as well. sweet looking rods.

thanks. that daiwa fuego looks nice. never heard of H2O express. looks like that's about a $190 setup ($110 + $80) or possibly cheaper depending on where you shop. do you think that's comparable in quality to the custom black combo ($280 MSRP, $265 @ amazon, or $240 @ dick's)? as dumb as this sounds, i'm not really sure. there's so much jargon and so many types of lures and associated techniques. this forum had a little anti-spam quiz i had to do when i joined. it asked for "Another name for a lipped lure that dives under the surface during the retrieve." i just guessed crankbait, and it accepted that answer, but i didn't even realize that lip in front of them makes them dive down. i've never used a crankbait. i'm looking for something that is a good complement to my medium spinner setup. something suitable for fishing in small to medium-sized lakes. biggest thing i've thrown on my current rod is a half-ounce lure. there can be some overlap in between my spinner and the new baitcaster in terms of what they can handle. and i'm open to possibly getting another rod eventually. but for now, i just want a second rod so i can have two different things rigged up at once for flexibility and convenience.