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Anthony Watson started following Help identifying an older senko style bait , Berkeley big game fluoro , Mercury 200 efi diagnosis and 1 other
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Berkeley big game fluoro
Has anyone tried the big game fluoro yet? If so what experience have you had with it? Just by looking at it looks to be like the standard big game, it runs big in the line diameter for the pound rating so I’m sure it will be stronger than advertised. It seems like a really good price point, and if it’s half the line big game mono is it will be awesome
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Flat-sided crankbait recommendations
The og tiny 4 and the frittside 5 have been my best producers in flatsides. I throw them in the standard shad(white with black back, white with blue back, chart with black back) and red craw patterns depending on the time of year
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Mercury 200 efi diagnosis
I have a buddy with a late 90s Mercury efi 2000. Recently it started becoming hard to start when cold, it seems to idle rougher than normal, and it’s really sluggish on the first initial takeoff of the day. Sometimes he can rev it to almost “clear it out” and then it will seemingly be fine and plane out like normal. After the first initial takeoff it acts totally normal the rest of the day. Busts right off on the first key turn and gets up on plane just like usual. I’m thinking it’s a fuel or fuel delivery issue. Anyone else have any suggestions?
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Technique order on offshore structure
Angles can be a deal breaker. I’ve noticed on my home lake that I can hit brush piles from different angles, one may produce no bites, while another may load the boat
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Technique order on offshore structure
I’ve noticed that I fish with 2 different mindsets when competitive fishing and just fun fishing. Most days fun fishing is more productive, maybe because I’m not expecting myself to catch a big bag, I’m just out there to have a good time. Or it could be that when I evaluate my day it’s not in lbs/oz and more about fun had. I’ve also noticed I do better in competitive settings when I show up with the mindset of “I’m just gonna go fish today and let the cards stack as they will”
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Technique order on offshore structure
Great advice Tom as always! I learn something every time you post
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Technique order on offshore structure
I find myself doing this often. I spend WAY more time on an offshore spot than I do on visible cover spots. I’ll spend 30 minutes on an offshore spot yet maybe 2-3 minutes on a visible cover spot, usually I stay moving when fishing down the bank.
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Technique order on offshore structure
I’ll be honest I had to look this up to see what it was
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Technique order on offshore structure
@LrgmouthShad thanks for the advice. I’m starting to learn that little keys like what you mentioned are what separate “good” spots from “great” spots It’s tough to run a crankbait through brush, especially a DD crank. I just try to pinpoint my brush pile and then run my crank right next to it as close as I feel I can without running it right through. A lure retriever also helps a lot and has saved me some money
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Technique order on offshore structure
I tend to go with my gut instinct as well, and what I have confidence in This year I’ve been trying to force myself to fish offshore/structure more instead of relying on visible cover. It’s been a bit of learning curve but I’m slowly making progress I have been leading off with a dd crank, then going to a Texas rig, jig, or c rig. I’ve heard multiple people say that approaching it with a moving bait may actually pull fish off of the structure. I’ll have to try your order and see if it produces more bites for me
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Technique order on offshore structure
So say you are fishing offshore structure (brushpiles, rockpiles, etc), is there a lineup of baits you will throw at it and if so what order do you prefer. I’m not asking for specific baits, I’m just wondering if you pull up to a spot do you throw a moving/reaction bait at it first, then follow it up with a worm/jig or is it vice versa? Or do you just hit it with one bait and move on?
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Help identifying an older senko style bait
That is very similar. I might have to buy some of those and try it. I’m very partial to the wacky rig, but it’s hard to fish in heavy brush. And those weedless wacky hooks that they offer just don’t do the trick
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Help identifying an older senko style bait
This may be a long shot….back in the early to mid 2000s there was a senko style bait that had an “appendage” right in the middle of the bait, the bait looked like a “T”. It allowed you to essentially wacky rig it but to use a ewg or worm style hook so you could Texas rig through the “appendage” and keep it weedless. I can’t for the life of me remember which company made it or what it was called. Does anyone remember this bait or know of anything on the market similar?
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Which rod/which reel and why??
I would add a medium moderate rod roughly 7’ with a 6.something gear ratio reel for crank baits, jerkbaits, and even chatterbaits. 6.x gear ratio reels are the most versatile in my opinion because it’s much easier to speed up reeling than it is to slow down reeling, at least for me it is
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Frog Colors ?
As said by many others here, I keep my frog colors very simple….white bottom or black bottom. Black bottom for low light conditions and white for more light conditions. Top color really doesn’t matter to me