postoak

Thanks. Hmm, going from brass main gear to aluminum main gear isn't good, IMO. It may function better in some sense or make the reel a little lighter, but I like the solidity of brass (maybe I'm just old-fashioned).

Also what do MP and MB stand for? And how is the Tournament better than the KVD? What makes the Tournament MP $10 more? The number of bearings are the same and the line capacity is the same. Is it just the double anodized spool? Finally, what are "speed gears"?

I have a camera (well, my iPhone). I even bought a mini-tripod so that I could film videos. I took 49 photos of my Speed Spool disassembly and it was only by going back and checking those that I noticed there were two holes the arm could go into. It may seem obvious from the photo (if you zoom in), but you actually have to exert some force to expose the correct hole if the arm has popped out of place. The photo is upside down from the way I took it.

Yep, the Speed Spool 2nd Gen's was that the one I have (others don't show this) has two holes in the frame for the upper coil spring. If this anchor pops out and you put it back in the wrong hole, you can't close the side plate. It took me about 15 minutes to notice the second hole because it is covered by the spring arm.

Yeah, a month ago I was afraid to even open one up and sent off a couple for overhauls. Now, I'm pretty sure I know more about these than 99% of people. I just wish I had some reels to do maintenance on at this point.

Thanks again, you're the best! I think I understand it all pretty well except 1 or 2 minor things. I took my Lew's Speed Spool 2nd Gen apart before lunch to watch the upper spring movement. I said it was anchored on on end into the clutch plate, but it is actually the cam plate. Safe difference, I think. And yeah on this Lew's the pinion gear is lifted way up, unlike on the Shimano I had looked at before.

Thanks Bulldog. So the cam plate and pinion yoke camming surface are supposed to lift the pinion gear above and out of contact with the main gear? Because I don't see that happening on the one I just worked on. (Which isn't what I was expecting, TBH.) Movement was only about 1mm up (towards the crank handle). I'm going to open another reel and see how far it moves things. I also don't understand how turning the main shaft (rotary motion) would cause the yoke to move (linear motion parallel to the main shaft). (Not arguing, just trying to understand the parts involved in making this happen.) Also, there's the issue that the main shaft can't move until it overcomes the pawl position against the ratchet teeth. I really appreciate your response.

After overhauling 4 of these now, What I've learned so far: When you press the thumb bar down (actually a slight arc), it rotates the clutch plate approximately 90 degrees. This causes the cam plate (which is attached to the clutch plate) to also rotate. Somehow, a slanted nylon cam on the cam plate and flat nylon on the pinion yoke convert the rotary motion to linear motion in the direction of the crank handle. This disengages the pinion gear from the pin on the spool shaft, allowing the spool to move freely in either direction. The ratchet pawl is moved into position against the ratchet wheel to prevent the handle from being able to rotate in reverse or forward. The spring linking the body and the pawl doesn't seem to compress, it just changes direction 90 degrees. Its function seems to be to provide positional stability only. All that remains is for a forward wind of the crank (against resistance, which suddenly collapses), and you are back where you started. This forward movement of the crank turns the ratchet wheel against the pawl and, because the back side of the ratchet teeth are curved whereas the other sides are straight, the handle is eventually able to move free. The pawl is moved out of the way to its original position and the spring is also moved to its original position. If this is all true, then I have one thing I am confused about. On some reels, there is another coil spring the function of which I'm not clear about. You can see it in the Lew's Speed Spool, for example. It's near the top of the reel, above the clutch plate. I can't see from videos what it attaches to at each end or what its function is. All I can see is that it doesn't compress either, it just changes orientation.

I read an article on the JIS vs Phillips issue recently. Basically the Phillips standard has been modified to make it better. You probably won't be able to find screwdrivers actually marked JIS, although the seller may refer to them that way. I can't find the original article, but here's part of an ongoing back and forth on them. Bike Gremlin

I read on the internet (LOL) that the guys who fight big game fish want to use their dominant arm to crank so as to have the most strength and stamina. That makes sense, but doesn't explain why what must surely have been a small percentage of the fishing public drove the entire market.

It's a $42.99 (Amazon) reel, so it's probably as good as others comparably priced to that.

Remove the tensioner cap and press against the end of the spool shaft with something semi-hard (so as not to damage it) and see if the spool becomes harder to turn.

Okay thanks, I found the Curado DC 150 HG schematic.

Wow, you guys are awesome! I was about to mention that I was missing the screw that holds the worm gear cover (70, 77) on. I removed the 4mm silver screw from the thumb bar support and replaced it with this screw and moved that screw to the worm gear cover. Two problems solved! One weird thing about the worm gear cover is that that there are screw holes on both sides, but there is no screw on the right side, just as the schematic shows. It is just held in place by inward pressure. Anybody have the schematic URL? Reel schematics doesn't have the Scorpion for some reason.

Do you have an online schematic that I can access? The paper one I have doesn't even have English names for the parts, and even with a magnifying glass, it is small. I've looked around online for a schematic but haven't been able to find one so far.

It's a long shot that anyone would know the answer to my question but I'll ask anyway. Just for reel knowledge, and fun, I guess, I disassembled my Scorpion. I got it back together okay but I've got one screw left over. It's the smallest screw on the reel, blued steel, 5mm long including the head, The head is flat and it's unusual in that it isn't a combo Phillips/flat head like most of these reel machine screws, it's just a cross. I've got the schematic that came in the box and am willing to account for every machine screw, but it will be difficult because the schematic doesn't show screw color, head type, or any other information about these screws and the diagram is small. Anyway, if anyone has worked on a Scorpion DC and know where this goes please let me know!

Did you remove the tension knob at some point? Maybe you cross-threaded it. It's easy to do.

Switch their baitcaster rods from the left hand to their hand right so they can crank with their dominant hands the way right handers do? Or do they use "right hand" reels the way more and more right handers are using "left hand" reels?

Oops, sorry, I posted the wrong first video. Only the second video shows the problem and fix I was referring to. papajoe222 - hmm, that's an interesting idea. That could be it.

I figured some guru would know exactly why this worked. Understanding why would contribute to my knowledge of reel internals.

The interesting thing is that a number of commenters to those videos say it happened on their brand new, never opened, reels.

I don't have the problem but I see people saying this problem can be fixed by tightening the drag down until you hear a pop. Often this appears to work. Anyone want to hazard a guess what that popping sound is?

It seems I have to click Mark as Solution on one post. Everybody was helpful, so I just chose the last answer by Newapti5

Thanks, very helpful. I have the 3 schematics I mentioned above pulled up side by side and that area is quite different. Johnny Morris JCB10HLA Yoke holder Clutch cam Cam plate Yoke Metanium DC clutch guard clutch plate, pinion bearing (If you're assembling the parts, don't forget the pinion gear bearing between them) cam plate clutch cam retainer yoke pinion gear Lew's Speed Spool 2nd Gen Clutch cam Link plate Bushing Yoke