Bigbox99

Is that an Amo spool on the 4600?

@redmeansdistortion 's Black Max is my current favorite round reel build. I can't get over how traditional Abu handle looks with the reel. How the textured black finish on the hande and gloss knobs match the finishes on the reel frame. The stock handle and knobs make the reel look off but this one looks super sharp.

I'm just going to dump some round reel pics from members on another forum. Too much round hate going on from people with PTSD from Abu 4600 and 5600s. Round reels made from machined bar stock and anodized are peak fishing reel. Truly a flagship means of constructing a fishing reel. I once had a LIN 10 Mars but could never bring myself to fish it and sold it off to a collector. It was a gorgeous thing.

The modern round reels palm pretty good. Even this 1st gen Ryoga palms great for me with three fingers in front of the trigger. Its taller than the 36mm wide spool Zillion HD next to it but i dont really notice that when palming. I think it is because the recessed portion of the frame your thumb rests on drops down lower than the peak of the round side plate. The 2nd gen is even smaller for the same spool size. Modern Conquests are also tiny. The Millionaire/Monoblock are also pretty small, especially given how old they are. The Monoblocks are 6oz reels that take OG Alphas gears and 34mm Daiwa spools. I had one for a while. Neat reels.

Yeah, I use a 7'2" rod for glides in my kayak. I have a longer 7'8" with a long handle but that thing has the handle under my arm pit when in the kayak and its hard to chop with the rod. The little 7'2" Wild Side has normal bass rod proportions but will cast big glides with ease.

That's the typical reaction to BFS rods. It's fun and removes the hassle of a spinning reel with its bail operation, line twist, large size and weight. It's fun. Finesse bait cast reels and rods go way back but BFS is a relatively modern term and was unique to bass fishing. It was invented by Yukihiro Sawamura when he added System to Bait Finesse. Bait Finesse (BF) just means casting light weight baits with a baitcast reel and/or rod and you will often see Japanese rods labeled as BF for a multitude of species. The System comes from him using a his spools with his rods and Seaguar Finesse fluorocarbon line that he may have also been associated with. He claims that he made these shallow spools for bass reels to use fluorocarbon line that was too stiff and unruly for spinning reels. In the video below you can turn on captions and auto translate to hear the story. Yukihiro already working for KTF making finesse spools for Daiwa and Shimano reels decided to work with Tiemco rods to make bass rods for casting light weight baits that had lots of power to hook and control a fish. These rods were unique for their rated powers of ML, L and UL in that they could cast light weight baits but were quite stiff in the back half of the rod which the rod hook setting power to crush weed guards and drive hooks through plastics. Because he fishes for highly pressured fish in shallow cover the rods are on the shorter end to make it easier to cast to targets in tight spots. Yukihiro called the use of his rods, reels and finesse fluorocarbon line BFS. Other rod brands followed his lead and released BFS versions of their bass rod lines. This is how we got the Majorcraft, Shimano, Megabass and other BFS rods in the 2010s. Enthusiasts were importing these rods and discussing them around that time period and that's how BFS got into the western fishing world and has recently gone mainstream. Once the acronym got here is lost its context and has devolved into just casting a light weight with a baitcaster. For some this was a new concept while others correctly pointed out that casting light weight baits with a baitcast reel isn't new. The simplest answer to what is BFS, is that it is a type of bass fishing rod.

Are you using the stock handle on the reel or one of those single knob handles?

I've heard of that being done on some gears that were new and had a factory tick spot. They added some lapping compound to the grease and ran the reel until the tick was removed then cleaned the gears and added fresh grease. This was for a defect on a gear giving a tick on the retrieve. If the gears are just cut in such a way that the mesh feels rough then I don't think you can lapp that out.

No and i have many reels from many brands and have never experienced this semi common reel issue. I've been hearing about it for years and never once had it happen. Because of this I suspect it stems from something the user is doing. You might have cracked the plastic pinion yoke on your reel. This can happen from partially pushing down on the thumb bar when reeling. If you palm with only two fingers in front of the trigger this can happen when the thumb base/palm push down on the edge of the thumb bar. Many, but not all, Shimanos use an asymmetric thumb bar shape to minimize the chances of your palm partially activating the clutch when palming the reel although the 200k does not. It does have a rather high mounted thumb bar that sits very flush compared to the Daiwa long thumb bar. Are you using a left handed reel palming and palming while casting with two fingers in front of the trigger?

I know you have to defend your 18 Ryoga from the plastic police but the 1st gen Ryoga isn't an old reel like your Millionaire. It was a flagship product that was very forward looking for its time. The 1st gen Ryoga is much more closely related to your 18 Ryoga than it is the Millionaire, by a lot. The 100 size is a 1016 reel, maybe even the 1st such example of a 1016 reel and that puts it in the modern Daiwa camp IMO on that alone. Magnets are super strong too my spools behave the same in my Black Jungle as they do in my Zillion and Zillion HD. The 2nd gen is a more compact version that didn't get a lot of love because of the Hypermesh gears and non threaded side plate. The 2nd gen is kind of slept on but it's significantly more compact than the 1st gen in the 1016 size while having the same spool. Definitely a nice feat.

Yes, as long as it is a 34mm short shaft spool. A good budget spool for this is the Ray's Studio spools also sold as SDS Customs on ebay. I consider the new platform reels that released around 2013 to be modern Diawas. All Tatulas, T3, Ryoga, 16 Steez (and all the variants) and the T Wing Zillions. This is also when Diawa shifted from the old 34mm "103" spool to the "1016" 34mm spool. They're basically the same but the new style 1016 has a slightly different shaft length that can be zeroed out with spool tension adjustment. Older platforms that date back to the 90s or early 2000s that were in production up until recently or still are don't count. Those are still old Daiwas but modernized. A example of this would be the Millionaire. Daiwa likes to make limited runs of the reel. They did a similar thing with the OG Alphas for years before pulling the plug.

The Ray's spool you have pictured predates any modern Daiwa. You have the new style satin finish honeycomb spool but they are functionality identical to the early gloss finish circle ported spools. They came out in 2015 for the TD-Z /Steez with a seperate 1016/T3 spool followed shortly after by the Alphas and later, Pixy. Are you saying that the spools you have pictured don't work well in older reels like the TD-Z, Steez and Alphas or that they do because these reels are "newer" (not 35 years old) and have the latest magnets? Off topic, but I'm confused as to what you are trying to clarify? The 1st gen Steez, T3 and Alphas all had SV versions from Daiwa and Ray's spools from as far back as 2013-2016 with the reels themselves dating as far back as 2003 for the Alphas and 2006 for the Steez.

That's more of a reel issue with the CV-Z's magnets. I run a mix of fixed inductor Magforce Z, Magforce V, Ray's, SV and SV Boost in my reels swapping them around and run them all with zero spool tension. It sounds like the spool you were running wasn't pairing well with the CV-Z. I've had a similar issue with my SS SV with a fixed inductor Ray's spool. The magnets and that spool didn't have enough control to cast with any effort. I've heard the same about the KKR spools too. Magnet intensity will vary from reel model to reel model so its possible that the CV-Z just has weak magnets. The only Millionaire I had was a Monoblock Carrozzeria Racing Milano that I molded with a longer T shadt to take normal 34mm spools and it seemed like it had normal magnets but it was also a Megabass reel and a heavily reworked Millionaire. The 1st gen Steez was notoriously weak on purpose to make the flagship reel a fast and exciting reel that required a high degree of skill to use without spool tension. That was part of the appeal of the reel as an enthusiast tier reel. When Megabass released their version of the 1st gen Steez, the IS, they put much stronger magnets in the reel to to offer more control. Despite the weak magnets of the 1st gen Steez I enjoy the weaker magnets of my LTD with the 1010 spool and know at least one person running a Zillion SV Boost spool in one. Speaking of spools swaps and the SV Boost, the Zillion SV Boost spool in the 16 Steez SV TW is supposed to be great offering a greater range of adjustment and a much faster casting performance than in the Zillion.

You can put an SV spool in anything that it will fit and it will work. The TD-Z takes modern SV spool as does this ancient weird thing on the left that I have. It's based on the Procaster Z and fishes identical to modern reels indicating that the magnets are similar to modern reels. On some older reels the magnets will either be further away from the spool than modern reels (TD-Z) or super weak (1st gen Steez all variants except Megbass). The spools will still work but be faster/longer casting which may or may not be an advantage depending on the use case. Then you also have the movable magnets of the T3's Magforce 3D that moved the entire magnet assembly from extra close (max brake) to normal (all around) then far away like TD-Z magnets (long cast). The 1st Alpha's magnets are on the weaker side compared to modern reels but that doesn't stop the 15 Alphas SV from being my favorite finesse skipping reel. SV spools aren't picky about agents like some Magforce Z spools can be.

There was a 1st gen Ryoga that used a screw in side plate. It basically identical to the 18 Ryoga except better in that it doesn't have Daiwa Micro Module gears and a has a screw in side plate. Megabass even made a few versions. https://www.tackletour.com/reviewdaiwaryoga1016hl.html https://www.tackletour.com/reviewmegabasslin10.html My LIN 10 Black Jungle Just going to post a few of aussiebasser's round reels for round reel visual stimulation. He hasn't been active in years and has an awesome collection of round reels the world needs to see.

It would be hideous but an ideal use case for it.

The 17 Tatula SV is easy to skip with. When the reel came out they did a Project T video that was basically "its so easy to skip, even a woman can do it" as an official promotional video.

Whenever I find broken line with a bait on it's always mind boggling. Something like a snap swivel with an egg sinker and then soft plastic lure just sort of rammed onto a straight shank hook. It reminds me that there is a whole world of anglers out there that are not active online or consume and bass fishing media.

It's a chinease Tsurinoya platform like the early Kastkings. That particular platform was popular for a while as a cheap BFS reel as the XF-50/Whirlwind. They're solid reels for the money. The BPS one has a unique take on a centrifugal brake that uses the springs that retain the centrifugal brake to push down on a tapered drum controlled by the external dial as a friction brake. The centrifugal brake comes off the drum and contacts the centrifugal race to brake mid cast then once the centrifugal forces fall below the retaining spring force the brakes seat back into their holder and are driven by the spring onto the inner drum and brake at the end of the cast. It's similar to a dual brake centrifugal/magnetic in behavior but different in that one part of the brake is working while the other is not then vice versa instead of the magnetic working while the centrifugal is working. I'd pay $30 for a used one to play with that brake. I only ever saw that system in store on the Enigma Smartcast and it was $100 in 2016 money. Here is the BFS reel from like 10 years ago https://youtu.be/dhxLL34G-0Y?si=4dO38Vt5TzNTokSS

Not really. I have a Tatula Elite spool and it's spring is the same as a normal Tatula as is the inductor when compared side by side. What surprised me is that spool is just a light weight G1 duralumin construction Tatula spool. Its as if a Tatula CT/Fuego CT spool was given the SV spool light weight construction and while keeping the same Magforce Z brake with indutor and spring. I was expecting an HLC like shorter inductor and stiffer spring but it's bog standard Tatula CT inductor and spring fitted to a lighter weight spool. In my Fuego CT it performs great but is really just an effortless casting spool and great non SV skipper. It casts as far as the stock Fuego CT/Tatula CT spool with way less effort. When power casting for max distance with a heavyish lure like a Terminator frog on a hard spool emptying bomb cast they both cast the same distance and will empty all braid down to the spool arbor at about the same rate. It doesn't dispence all the line super quick like an HLC or make an audible higher spool RPM hum like the HLC. It seems normal Tatula but with an uncanny effortlessness. The main differences in my Fuego CT are that the Elite spool in the Fuego CT will cast like 80% the same as max distance as the stock Fuego CT spool with 20% the effort, cast light weight baits very well and skip with SV spool like ease. It's impressive in the Fuego CT IMO. Maybe the Tatula Elite has weaker magnets but I have found the Elite spool to be an effortless and easily controlled spool rather than a pure distance and wild long caster in my use. It's one of my favorite reel and spool pairing for all around use because it can do basically everything. I say this as someone that has a dedicated Plano box for Daiwa spools and almost never fishes the stock spool in a reel.

They skip great. I'd spool it with some cheap mono to get the hang of it. You should be able to run it with no spool tension and high on the mag braking. This is assuming nothing is wrong with the reel. These early SV spools can shear off the SV ramp base feet that clamp onto the spool allowing the whole SV Air Brake assembly to rotate. You can test this by turning the spool inductor until it pops out and locks. If you can continue to rotate the entire assembly while the inductor is extended and locked then its broken. It will take a little effort to turn the assembly because the assembly has some friction on the spool shaft but it shouldn't be an uncomfortable amount of effort. If this failure has occurred the symptoms are that the reel will backlash mid cast and turning up the brake to stop that mid cast backlash will also make it over brake at the end of the cast. Basically both backlashing early/midcast AND overbraking at the end. When removing the spool you may notice the broken ends that sheared off the Air Brake base as two tiny little black plastic bits that fall out. The fix is to disassemble the Air Brake and then super glue the broken base back on and then reassemble. Be careful not to contaminate the area the top ramp/inductor side on with super glue. I recommend super gluing the spool where the Air Brake base will go and then fitting on the base rather than gluing the base and sliding it down the spool shaft. You can also play around with an inductor or spring swap to change the braking profile since you already have torn apart. I did this to my stock spool and put a 15 Alphas SV inductor then lost the reel with a BFS spool in it so I never got to use the modified spool but still have it.

The stiffer the spring with Daiwa Magforce Z and SV reels the sooner the rotor moves away from the magnets and the freer the spool at the end of the cast. Daiwa even makes factory versions like their HLC reels (hyper long cast) that have super stiff springs on the spool. You can also HLC your Daiwa spool by swapping in an HLC spring. There are also stiffer springs that sit between the normal magforce Z spring and HLC like the spring found in the Catalina TW and Z200 spools. Both are known for being good long casters but with more control than the borderline insane HLC spools. The SV Boost on the current Zillion is also uses a stiffer spring for the boost element. It uses a normal SV softness short spring and a stiff short spring do make a single dual rate spring instead of one long soft or one long stiff spring.

That's an early version if the Doyo inertial brake and basically proto Daiwa SV. The modern BPS Extreme reels have the same brake and they also get stuck partially extended brand new at BPS on the combo racks. Have you considered moving to a slightly stiffer spring or stretching out that spring to stiffen it up? We do that with the Daiwa SV spools to make the spool faster/cast farther.

That 17 tat is a skipping machine. Just make it your weightless plastics reel for 5" senkos and above and spool it with 12 to 14 pound flouro. Go cast and skip plastics, Texas rigs and jigs to docks and low cover.

There is some sort of equation to calculate the affect of mass and its location on a rotating object. It was posted on TT when we were discussing spool weight and why the mass of the long spool shaft spools don't seem to affect the performance as much as the same weight on the spool further out. TL;DR it was the radius component of the equation and the long stainless spool shafts had a mass with a radius placement on the spool that was effectively zero (its the spool shaft after all). The inverse of this was that line weight, especially on large diameter spools (greater radius) greatly affected the spool startup/inertia. http://www.tackletour.net/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=67159&start=480