Scherbacj

I understand that in concept, but when you select a target on the screen you are selecting a part of that history, when I hit “create waypoint” shouldn’t the waypoint be placed where the cursor is in that history? If that is the case, it shouldn’t matter how fast I was going, or how far away I was when I created the waypoint. If it is creating the waypoint at my current location instead of at the cursor then I can understand the offset, but I don’t see why you would be able to select a point with the cursor and then create a waypoint if it isn’t making the waypoint at that location anyways. so I guess my question is, which way is it? When I have a target on the screen, I select it with the cursor and create a waypoint, is the waypoint being created at the cursor location? Or is it still creating it at the current location of the boat/head unit?

that makes sense, but I can actually put a marker on the target on the screen and create the waypoint at that marker, so even if that spot is behind me and is about to fall off the screen, if I select that point, shouldn’t the waypoint be at that marker and not the current position of the boat? If it is still using the position of the boat when I click save then it doesn’t make sense why you would be able to select the target on the screen and say “create waypoint”. Especially because even after saving the waypoint, the screen still shows the frozen frame of the target and the name of the waypoint until you click to return to the sonar screen. Also, I would love to make a second waypoint and then know my target is in between the two, but I can’t even find the target a second time in order to make the waypoint. It seems like I am going far enough past the waypoint so even if it was a boat length behind me that I should still pass it again, but I’m not seeing it. I think I will just throw out a marker buoy and then probe it with a bottom contact bait until I get a feel for where the waypoint is in relation to the boat. It just doesn’t make sense to me that I can select the target if that isn’t where the waypoint is actually placed.

What strategy do you use to return to/fish spots you find on your down/side imaging? I recently Upgraded to a boat worthy of a fish finder and while I idle/troll along and identify spots I want to fish, I drop a waypoint, but even with the waypoint and the graph saying I’m in the same spot, I don’t see the same structure/targets. I try searching around that area and can’t seem to locate the same brush pile/tree I just saw. I have a Lowrance HDS Pro and I can select the actual target on the screen when creating the waypoint so I don’t think I’m “seeing” it on screen but creating the waypoint too late. I know the tranducer is at the rear of the boat, but even just trying to pass over the area again to confirm where it is won’t work. I have even had my Ghost autopilot to said waypoint and don’t see the same targets I did before. Am I just stupid? How do get back to targets you find while idling?

Has anyone here removed the EFI/Air Filter restrictor plate from their 75 HP Mercury? I’m trying to find a parts diagram so I can see which part to remove and get an idea of how easy it is, but I can’t find much online. The diagrams I can find don’t even show the intake. It’s a 2023 if that matters. Does anyone have a parts diagram that shows the restrictor plate? can anyone comment on the performance difference before/after the mod?

True….but is it really LifePO4? Did they sub out an element for another one that is cheaper but reacts the same? Has anybody ripped into one to confirm that it is what they say it is? Have enough random samples, not hand picked ones for “reviews”, been inspected and tested to verify its correct? All I am saying is it’s pretty rare to have a product come out that is 25% of the average cost and it’s actually what it claims. There are only so many things you can do to lower costs. They might be more efficient and therefore able to make it for less, but even if they can make it for 75% less, why sell it for 75% less? You sell it for less to attract customers, but you don’t have to sell it for 75% less to do that. A 25% difference is enough to get people to come to you instead of other places. “You get what you pay for” and “it’s too good to be true” are actually correct quite often. Yes, some products have a higher value to cost ratio, but those items usually aren’t the bottom dollar ones, they are the mid range who make a good product but don’t get overly fancy or cosmetic. Skepticism of bottom dollar products is usually well earned.

I would be a little weary of that thing catching fire and burning down my boat. While I agree that some of the big names cost is burnt up in marketing and advertising, there are also different levels of quality even for two products that are both made in China. Just like anywhere, there companies in China who make a quality product, and there are companies in China that flow with the buying trends, making products as cheap as they can and cutting every corner they can, and who know they will rename or rebrand or whatever once people catch on to their crap quality. It’s a separate subject, but it really makes me sick that this is the way our world is moving. Companies competing for cheapest price knowing quality doesn’t matter because there’s nothing we can do about it since they are in a different country and will just rebrand. It’s even worse that most of these “innovations” come from other places, get ripped off by China, but Amazon and our politicians are happy to take their “cut” while everyone else gets screwed. Sorry to sound political, it’s really not since both sides and everyone in between do it. Personally, I stay away from this type of crap unless it’s something I will only use once or it’s something like dog toys. But if it’s something that matters, especially that matters to the things I enjoy doing, I won’t let them rob me of my money and my enjoyment when their crap products leave me hanging. Plus, I deal a lot with power tools, and you can barely make a decent 5.0ah Lithium battery for a power tool for $88. There is no way you can get a true Lithium(LifePO4) battery that is properly made and has the proper protections for that little money. Hell, if they could actually make quality cells for that cheap, why make small 12V batteries, they could dominate the EV market by making the first one to cost $15K.

I’m sure they will keep the top selling models and just rename them under the different brands. I literally just upgraded to a Lowrance Ghost from a Motorguide cable steer and had some reservations, but I got it all wired up and tested it and I don’t see it being an issue. The steering response is really responsive, and the pedal feels doesn’t feel much different to me. Granted, I haven’t been a 20 year user of cable steer, but I did get used to how they operate and after my initial “test” with the Ghost, I don’t feel bad. Maybe I’ll scoop up a Tour Pro as well and see if people start paying out the nose for them when they go away!😀

I know that for my Motorguide the way the cable was coiled, both stowed and deployed was important, I just installed a Ghost, does it matter for that? If I have it where it’s not a tight curve at the pedal, then it has a tight coil when it’s deployed, if I have it straightened when deployed, it had a tight coil at the pedal when stowed. I have tried twisting it every which way, and if I leave the cable in the clips on the side of the motor Mount, it always has a tight coil somewhere. But it’s not a cable drive, so does it matter? I just tried it another way, and when deployed it ends up in an “S” shape, but when stowed it’s not bad.

Lowrance suggests a minimum of 1.5” clearance and it has more than that. It might not look like it from the front, but it has had at least 1.5”. If I had to guess without a tape, I would say it’s 2.25” P.S. I’m not a tech guy so I hate to be critical, but a 1,000KB limit on photos is pretty small. I have to crop everything to a much smaller photo in order to make it work.

Is this a problem? I just swapped a cheap Motorguide and installed a Ghost, and the Ghost lines up with the old bolt holes, but it doesn’t sit centered on the keel as recommended as you can see in the photo, when it’s deployed, it sits about 6” off centerline. I have enough room to move it over without it sticking off the side when stowed, might have to angle it a little more, but I would rather not have to drill new holes. Will this screw with the spot lock? Or make the motor less effective? Or is it close enough? I had to crop it to get the file size small enough to post, but hopefully you get the idea. Here is what it looks like when stowed. I would definitely have to angle it over the deck more if I wanted to get perfect, so I couldn’t just slide it back and drill only 2 new holes, I would have to redo all of them.

So I tried to take the old motor off today, and they didn’t use the isolators, it has 1/4” bokts with Nylocks. Unfortunately I didn’t have a wrench because I wasn’t expecting it to have Nylocks, but there are definitely some sort of rubber spacer/washer under 4 bolts further back. The front 2 bolts don’t have the washers, and they weren’t bolts & nuts, just 1/4” sheet metal screws straight into the hull. I think those are that way because it’s impossible to reach that far forward to put a nut on it, or because it’s inside the “box beam” used to create the gunnel/bow at the tip. Do I need the rubber washers? Or should I just bolt it straight to the deck? Why would they only be on 4 out of 6 bolts? I suppose it’s possible they just cut the flange off the isolators, but there definitely wasn’t any rubber “shaft” portion going through the deck. Is that typical for a Motorguide X3? I know Motorguide had a different system at some point.

I have a Lowe Stinger 178 which is an Aluminum hull, I am going to be swapping out my trolling motor and installing a Ghost which has a lot more thrust and I am wondering if I should use some type of deck reinforcement like the one in the link below, or one I built myself. I currently have a Motorguide X3 70LB and it was installed with the rubber isolator bolts which I know are a nightmare so at the very least I am going to get rid of those and use a large & thick washer with a locknut. I was thinking of using Unistrut Square washers for the backing washer because they are 1 1/2” square and 1/4” thick which is about as big/thick you can get for a 1/4” bolt size. But it seems to me the .125” thick Aluminum of the hull/deck could be fairly easy to warp or damage with a more powerful motor so I was wondering if I should use something more than the big washers? I have also seen guys use Toggler style toggle anchors which I know are pretty strong and possibly easier to install. I work for a fastener supplier so when it comes to hardware, I have easy access to just about everything fastener related. This is the kind of plate I found( https://www.trollingmotors.net/products/minn-kota-boat-deck-reinforcement-kit-mka-58 ) but if it attaches to the top of the deck, I don’t see it being a ton of help since the weak link would still be the upward forces pulling on the Aluminum deck. Would the large washers on the under side of the deck be the better option? Or I could use 2 pieces of 1/4”Thk Flat Bar drilled for the mounting pattern of the motor Mount so it is one continuous piece running the length of the motor mount, but I could see that being a little difficult to install and possibly overkill.

Ill have to look at mine, but I don’t recall having another drain further up the transom aside from the splash pan drains. I do have 2 ports on the starboard side, I know one is bilge pump outlet, maybe the other is the live well overflow?

Probably a stupid question, and I think I have it figured, but want to make sure and couldn’t find the info in the manual or online. I have a Lowe Stinger 178 and it has 3 drains/plugs/outlets and I’m just trying to confirm what each one is. The center is obviously the main drain plug and it’s a captured system. The left appears to be the live well inlet, and I am assuming the right hole is the live well overflow? Is that correct? If so, should I plug the live well overflow if I’m not planning to use the live well?

So you have stick baits that come with screw weights already in them, and you are gonna be using them on the FlickIt? If I am understanding that right, then yes, you should remove the screw in weight. If you have the screw weight in one end, and the FlickIt in the other end, you will have zero action. The FlickIt will likely be heavier, so even though the stick bait will fall the correct way, the screw weight will weigh down the back end so the stick bait will just fall over and wouldn’t have an “shimmy” or tail action.

I looked at it today and the 45” shaft already hits the ground when trailered, I think a 52” would be too long unless I keep close to a foot above the collar for normal use. Because that means the 45” sits a good 18”-20” below the boat as is.

They have the trolling motor wires run through the same conduit but I thought the trolling motor wires were supposed to be kept away from the graph/transducer wiring?

I need to wire up my bow graph, I have an open circuit on the junction under my console, but is it better to wire it straight to the battery? Or does it not matter? I tried going through the wiring path all the way to the battery, but get getting caught up on something and couldn’t get my wire puller all the way through.

Last question, my current trolling motor has a 45” shaft, I haven’t had the boat long enough to fish in rough waters so I am wondering if the 47” shaft will be long enough or if I should get the 52” shaft and just leave it pulled up if I go shallow. I have a 17’ Lowe Stinger 178 which is a Mod-V and I live in AZ so crazy weather with rough waters doesn’t happen a lot. I can’t think of many lakes that have long flats of really shallow water, but I haven’t fished a lot of them for a long time so my memory could be off. Do you think the 47” will be long enough? I’d rather not have a foot of shaft sticking up half the time just because I am fishing in 5-6ft waters.

I think I’m just gonna keep it simple and get the Ghost and hope it isn’t loud. As long as it isn’t loud, I have no other concerns and think it will go well with my setup. Aside from that one video everyone who has one says it’s quiet, so I’ll just have to hope it’s not all owner bias. If it turns out it sucks, I’ll try to offload it and switch when I have had time to recoup some more money. Switching everything just isn’t a possibility right now, so it limits my options to Lowrance if I want integration with my graphs which seems like the way to go. If I didn’t care about integration with my graphs I would consider the Garmin or the Ulterra, but without integration it really limits the usability of them, which kind of defeats the purpose of getting the higher end motors to begin with.

Well I am considering upgrading one of my graphs and would like to have the Trolling Motor match my graphs, but I would prefer to not have to replace all my graphs and transducers, etc. I only have a 7” graph at my console right now and a 10” at the bow, both Lowrance, so I was thinking of getting a 12” HDS Live or Pro and putting it at the bow and moving my 10” HDS to console. I definitely like the idea of having everything match, and would be willing to deal with not having the console match right away, IF, there is a clearly better option but it seems really subjective. I wish I could actually get some on water experience with each. Somebody needs to tell Basspro to setup trolling motors in a tank so guys can test them out and hear them, feel how they operate before buying. I bet if someone did that, they would increase their share of trolling motor sales just because guys can determine which one they like and appreciate being able to try them.

I have seen the video, but as others have mentioned, that’s a single sample size, in different waters, at different times, etc. There could be many reasons why it was loudest in that instance. Aside from that video, and people referencing that video, I haven’t found anyone talking about how loud the ghost is. I would agree if there were tons of people with actual in person experience saying the Ghost was the loudest motor they have heard, but almost every reference to the Ghost being loud is that one video. The Garmin is the same price as the Ghost and I would consider it as well since the remote makes the Auto Pilot features almost as easy as having it integrate with the Graph, but I haven’t been able to find one I could check out the pedal and stuff on. I guess since I looking to upgrade my graph anyways I could get the Garmin and then when I upgrade my graph just get a Garmin. It won’t match the graph at my console, but I guess that’s not a deal breaker. It would kind of suck not being able to share waypoints and stuff, but since it has the remote, when I add a waypoint at the console I could just add one to the bow using the remote at the same time. I know you can’t leave your trolling motor down when running, but would it hurt to leave it down when idling and side imaging so I could operate it that way with the remote?

I am looking to upgrade my trolling motor for something with spot-lock & GPS features. I have Lowrance graphs so obviously the Ghost is at the top of the list, but the high price tag makes me hesitate. I also don’t know how much I will use Auto pilot and course lock since I have never even had Spot-Lock. I have heard that the prop on it sucks. I do like the pedal, and I like that I can use Ghost 360 since I have an HDS Pro. I also like that it’s brushless and that I could upgrade to a 36 volt system later on if I needed/wanted to. I like that I can setup routes and anchoring spots from my graph. I am also considering the Motorguide Tour Pro 24V. The TP has pretty much all the same GPS/Auto Pilot features as the Ghost, they are just harder to use since it won’t integrate with my graphs. I can still do Route Follow but instead of being able to setup the route on my graph I would have to run the route first and then I can use the Auto Pilot to “re-run” the route. I like that it is a cable steer, and everything I have found says it’s just as quiet as the Ghost. The pedal isn’t bad but it’s not my favorite. The universal sonar would still give me 2D and Down imaging, and I have heard that the prop on it is good. The big positive is that it’s $1,500 less than a Ghost which means I can upgrade from my Elite FS to a HDS Pro 10 at the console. For context I live in Arizona so my fisheries don’t have a ton of grass, but there is a lot of shallow water fishing. I currently have 70LB trolling motor and it moves my boat just fine, so the Tour Pro’s 82Lbs would be more than enough. I have heard a lot of negative reviews on the Tour Pro, although a lot were due to the motherboard issue a few years ago, it still seems like they are hit or miss whether you get a good one. I haven’t heard nearly as many issues with the Ghost. I like the responsiveness of the cable steer, although I have never actually ran a Ghost so I don’t know how much different the steering is. So…..help me decide, which one would you go with? Although I have been leaning towards the Ghost I really can’t decide, I go back and forth. I’m a believer in “buy once, cry once”, so if the Ghost is a better product I don’t mind spending the extra money, but How useful is 360 Sonar? Will I wish I could setup routes and anchor points via my graph? Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to give you all the info I could in my thought process.

that makes sense, I just don’t understand why all these motor manufacturers are making motors with built in transducers with side imaging if it doesn’t work that great. I guess with the ghost, that’s how they make the Ghost 360 work, but the others it doesn’t make sense. I do understand wanting to have a tranducer closer to where you fish.

having to put the trolling motor down in order to start graphing makes sense, but if using the trolling motor will make the imaging go crazy then why are all the high end trolling motors building transducers into the trolling motor? Part of the reason I am asking if there is an advantage to having a x-ducer on/in the trolling motor is because I am looking to upgrade my trolling motor and one of the motors I am looking at (Tour Pro) doesn’t have enough length to add a x-ducer to it so I am wondering if I should go with a different trolling motor that either has the x-ducer built in or can at least have a external unit mounted to it. do you get better image quality from the trolling motor mounted unit? Or is the only benefit is the x-ducer is right under where you fish instead of behind you!