I am thinking of deep cranking with some 30lb braid. But I have some questions, will 30lb braid dig itself with mono backing?

 

I recently fished a crankbait with braid for the first time and had great results. The most noticeable thing was how deep those hooks got in the bass's mouth. I mean they were stuck! 

 

Besides changing out hooks for more stouter ones, what other issues I might have by fishing straight braid?

 

I am a braid fisherman already, I've never fished with anything under 50lb braid on a baitcaster.

 

 

I am cranking 95% of the time and it is always on 30 pound braid. I have found that the line diameter of 30 gets crankbaits to their advertised depth. To answer your question, I wrap electrical tap around my mono backer to keep from digging in and to not compromise my line strength if I overcast . That way digging into the mono is not a problem but there is always the problem of the braid digging into it's self.

 

I have been cranking on straight braid for 4 years and have not had any problem with hooks pulling out like a lot of people have. Just make your hookset more of a tug and reel.

 

to me, sensitivity of braid is its biggest plus. I can tell if a blade of grass is on my lure and give it a yank to clear the hooks and not waste a caste

I've never had a problem with super slick braid digging into a backing or itself all the way down to 20lb when cranking with the drag set, however if your drag is up and you pull on it the braid will dig in. It seems like with cranking it packs the braid on tight and you can get away with lower sized braid but I dunno maybe that's all in my head.

That's with PP super slick though, dunno bout other brands

Thanks guys

Sarge, I've been throwing cranks on Suffix Performance braid this season in the 20lb test and absolutely love it.

Between the cast going to the moon and the sensitivity, what's not to like.

I've been throwing it in stained to muddy visibility and like you stated, I can feel the smallest piece of weeds on a treble. 20lb braid is = to 6lb mono diameter, which I find is plenty strong enough to get out of a lot of snags.

Tight lines, Tony

When I am deep cranking its generally around rock. Rock and braid don't mix. I am a florocarbin guy when it comes to deep cranks.

All of my cranking, deep or shallow, is done with 20lb braid, and has been for years. Fluorocarbon leaders are added when I am around rock, or pike.

Cranking with braid works - bottom line.

 

A softer rod could help.

 

A-Jay

I am thinking of deep cranking with some 30lb braid. But I have some questions, will 30lb braid dig itself with mono backing?

 

I recently fished a crankbait with braid for the first time and had great results. The most noticeable thing was how deep those hooks got in the bass's mouth. I mean they were stuck! 

 

Besides changing out hooks for more stouter ones, what other issues I might have by fishing straight braid?

 

I am a braid fisherman already, I've never fished with anything under 50lb braid on a baitcaster.

 

Not all braids are the same, so if you are really concerned with dig problems, then be sure to select a line with a high degree of roundness.  Suffix 832 is very round and maintains its roundness over time better than any #30 I've ever fished.  I would definitely stay away from Regular 4 carrier Power Pro because of it's roundness problems.  832 and some of the other 8 carrier braids are your best bets.

Not all braids are the same, so if you are really concerned with dig problems, then be sure to select a line with a high degree of roundness. Suffix 832 is very round and maintains its roundness over time better than any #30 I've ever fished. I would definitely stay away from Regular 4 carrier Power Pro because of it's roundness problems. 832 and some of the other 8 carrier braids are your best bets.

From my experience PP super 8 slick digs in the least of any braid I use... 2nd place goes to 832