How would they run with a 115 on it? I have a motor and the boat? Be nice to have something a little diffrent.

I'm running a 16' Alweld mod-v tunnel with a 40 hp but I run in alot of shallow water, on plan I can run through 6-8" of water.

My son has a 21' we use in the bays, in south Texas. With a hydraulic jack plate, we can run run on plane in 4" of water. Works on the nerves running 30-40mph that shallow but the boat will do it. A friend has one he just got from BPS About 16ft or so with a 60 and hydraulic jack plate and I think they claim his will run in about 3" on plane, but seriously doubt he has tried that.

It takes about 8" of water for my sons to take off and get on plane with hydraulic risers on the back, but his is a fairl heavy boat with a V-6 engine. Now, that's going easy, that's not just sticking it to it like in deep water.

I've had one aluminum tunnel hull with a jet drive on it. It was great for hauling butt up the river, but when you got where you were going, trying to maneuver it at slow speed totally sucked. A tunnel hull with hydraulic jack plate and prop drive makes a very nice combo.

Its a fiberglass, has the big nose on it

I have never seen a fiberglass boat with a tunnel hull.  Generally they are used for jet boats to allow for a super shallow draft and having nothing under the boat to hit rocks etc...

Woops,

I just realized you had SHADOW in front of tunnel hull.

What size?

That is an extremely light and pretty dang fast hull. I think the 20' weighs less than 1,000 pounds. I know a 200VT with 300hp will run in the low to mid 90's with the proper set up, and have seen 101 with just the driver..

I've never had dealings with one with that small of a motor so I can't even speculate how it will perform. Most are set up to run with the Bullets and Ally's.

They are a little sluggish coming out of the hole, so the prop will be crical. A smaller pitch will get on plane better, but that hull is so fast once it's up, it may over rev the motor,

What make 115 you have?

One thing I will warn you of, they are very stable, go fast boats and do not chine walk, how ever they do have one serious flaw. If the hull is up and flying and you chop the power, make sure you have a very good vest on because you will probably end up in the water, they will make the fastest bat turn you have ever seen. If you don't know what a bat turn is, you had better that boat don't teach you.

One other thing, that can very easily turn out to be the most expensive boat you will ever own. What happens is you get the go fast itch and you start doing all these things to make it faster. The faster you wat to go, the more it's going to coast you.

Forgot to mention a bat turn is the boat doing an instant 180, while you usually keep going the direction you was headed.

A sample of one, this one was stupidity induced by the way he tried to cross a wake but the outcome shows you kinda what a bat turn looks

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=G4fwaVV10oo

Huh! How did I miss that to

I never seen one with anything under 150 hp, very finicky to setup but once dailed in they fly.

Tower of Power Mercury 115

It would probably work, but sounds underpowered. I have a 115 on a 18' Xpress with a 23p laser. Not that it really helps, but that boat is around 1400 lbs and loaded goes around 48-50.

What size/model Shadow? I think they made 18', 19' and 20' models. The 20's are the only ones I've had any experience with and that because they had 3.0 OMCs on them and helping the owners make them faster. As for the others, I've never even seen one. Not a whole lot you are going to do that motor in the way of mods so understand up front, if it's a good running motor with good compression, if you start getting that itch, don't waste your money on trying to do motor mods. Just go ahead and find you a 2.5 if you want to stick with Mercs, or 3.0 if you want OMC.

Set up is critical and that's where you are going to get all the speed it's going to give you with that motor, and that is one hull that can definitely use a hydraulic jack plate. The 20' hulls also needed a lot of setback, even with the heavier OMCs on them. I'm talking 10 to 14" of it. All three of those found a Rich Boger tuned Renegade prop worked best. That's a high rake, four blade prop. Also understand, I don't know much about what props are available for that motor, but that is going to be the most critical item you put on it, and you most likely will not get it right the first time, so try before you buy, or you can waste a lot of money.

You now know just about as much as I do about the Shadow,

Its the rt200 the 20' footer

All I can say, that's a lot of boat for that motor. As for performance, like I said, I wouldn't have a clue. Since that hull tends to be a little slugish getting on plane to star with, propping it is probably going to be a trip. If the transome and the floor is good, that would make you a fun project.

It will also pay you to buy a SE SPORT 300 hydrofoil. They make a big difference on the big HP motors, one should definitely help jour little motor.

Yes the transom has been redone, and boat is in excellent shape, always wonderd if i could cut the nose out and make a deck figured it would be fun to try to make a fishin boat

Anything is possible, if you have the fiberglass skills, how practical though would have to be determined. It would basically require making a whole new top cap. If you found who has the molds now, they might make one , but the cost would probably be more than another used boat.

I figured but it would be different in its own way. I know I can't mount a trolling motor on the nose of it, at least I don't think.