I am building my first rod and going to be using a St Croix SCV blank, 7' M/F... I am getting a St Croix butt kit from mudhole and their beggginer kit. Now my question is what are the best guides to use on my build? I will be using 15lb power pro braid with a fluoro leader. I would like it to be as light as possible with great sensitivity since this is going to be my weightless plastics rod. Also what is the best thread? What brand and size? Any suggestions on the guides or anything about the build please let me know.

You should start here...

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1152205660

But since you asked, if it were my rod I would turn my own grip and use a Fuji ECSM or ACS reel seat.  I use Gudebrod size A thread for all freshwater rods.  If you are planning to use braid, I'd use Fuji Ti framed SiC guides.

Oh and before any of that, I'd order a cheaper blank, a set of Alconites and a 2nd seat and cork (grip) to build a practice rod before 'learning" on a $180 blank.  Because I can promise you one thing... your second rod will turn out better than your first!    

Best of luck, either way- and don't forget to put up some pictures when it's finished. (or along the way)

Are the sic titanium guides really that much better? i priced it out and it will be another 100 over regular alconite guides. Can you tell a difference in casting distance and overall weight of the rod with them? Or is it purely for longevity?

Mainly, longevity.  I have some titanium guides, and they look like new, had them on my rod for about 10 years now...  Is it worth it?  To some, just the drop of weight isn't all that noticeable...  It's mostly just a few grams!  It all depends on what you look for in a guide.  If you get titanium, expect them to outlast the rod!  Already, this rod has been broke in half, cracked, and the tip broken.  So, no matter what, it's still going to determine on what you want...  

I heard something about people saying that braid cuts into it less, also?  I don't know about that, though.  I run monofiliment on all my rods, just because it's got a better stretch.  So that one, you would have to determine on your own!    GL with whatever choice you make!  And do what you think will make you happiest.  

I'd order a cheaper blank, a set of Alconites and a 2nd seat and cork (grip) to build a practice rod before 'learning" on a $180 blank.  Because I can promise you one thing... your second rod will turn out better than your first!

True words of wisdom! 8-)

Are the sic titanium guides really that much better? i priced it out and it will be another 100 over regular alconite guides. Can you tell a difference in casting distance and overall weight of the rod with them? Or is it purely for longevity?

If you priced it at $100 over Alconites then you are figuring something wrong or found a high priced retailer.  Sounds like you have a bunch of double footed guides priced.  

Your original post said you wanted light weight and said you were going to use braid...  based on those two ideals, I think Ti framed SiC's are your best option.  Even though you won't "feel" the physical weight difference, you can feel the balance difference, if you taped it up head to head.  Add to that, corrosion resistance and the strength factors (which you want using braid) and the ability to use 5.5 running guides and tip and I think it's worth the extra $50.

The SiC rings are the best for braid... you won't wear them out and they are about the smoothest which (in theory anyway) should be you best casting guide with braid.

Now, having said all that...

Alconites are very good guides.  I used them on some of my own rods.  I think they are the best overall value in guides of any brand or price point.  They are light, strong, smooth and inexpensive.  You really can't go wrong with them.  But since you are building it, why use the guides that come on that rod from the factory when you can get something a little bit lighter, smoother, stronger and more unique???

And one more thing...

If you are really rough on gear, build it with alconites and use the difference to start buying the next set of components.

Good luck!

-keith

Keith I agree 100% with you......

From what I have read here though, the builder must be experienced because of the components he has set himself up with. The builder must feel that his abilities to actually build a really good rod must come from just the components he uses, instead of the combination of setup, wrapping/finishing practice and then components.

The first rod I built 15 years ago was a kit, had aluminum oxide guides and wasn't a bad rod but they didn't get lighter and better for about 15 to 20 more personal rods, each time going to the next level. All the time the wraps and finishing processes got better, plus learning the proper way to balance and layout the components...

I can see no reason to spend a large sum of money for the first rod build, but that's my .02¢

Good Luck & Tight Wraps All!......  

For your first rod, I would put that SCV in a corner and buy one of the closeout $16 MH blanks from www.swamplandtackle.com .  There are some tricks to making a rod function at its best and look good that are hard to accomplish on your first one.  Read every thread on www.rodbuilding.org.

Anthony

Ok, guys i am taking what you all have said to heart and have put the scV away and am ordering an scIII casting for a spinnerbait setup. I am also getting reg alconites since i will be using yo zuri hybrid on the rod and not braid. The total cost of the rod when done will be about 130 which if it doesn't come out perfect i am ok with that. I have done some reading over on rodbuilding and think i have the jest of it. the only thing that i am finding hard to picture is the locking wrap technique. Is this only for spinning rods or casting also and is there a picture tutorial or video for how this is done. I have heard this is the best way to wrap the guides and less chance of cracking the epoxy at the guide feet. Is this true? Thanks for all the help guys. I do take what you say to heart and appreciate the the criticism.

dolf,

Please remember that all we say here is to help so that you don't make the mistakes that can run you out of the art of rod building..

As far as the locking wrap goes it is used on all of the single foot guides that I mount. It was the result of a lot of work by Rich Forhan and tested mainly for rods that were placed into and removed from rod lockers on boats. Before I started using it I was using just a blocking wrap on my single foot guides...

Yes there is a picture tutorial the original article is located here.....

That article brings the threads down from the top and behind the rod.

If that confuses you I wrote a follow up that take the thread up and in front of the rod, it is here...LOCKING WRAP A SINGLE FOOT GUIDE....My Way!

Hope these help, and keep us informed on your progress....

Tight Wraps!!!  

Thanks that is a much better explanation. So you wrap a 360 a total of 3 times correct? So i would go locking with a 360, locking with a 360, locking with a 360 and then the final 2 blocking wraps?

dolf,

Depends on the size of the single foot guide I'm wrapping. Anywhere between 2 and 4 360° wraps around the guide leg...Basically what you feel is strong enough for the rod your building. One thing I will say it does take lots of practice to get right....

I just got done doing 8 number 5.5 guides with locking wraps, and my hands were cramping from it when I got done....

Good Luck & Tight Wraps!!!

One more question.. How do you know what size tip top to get?

You can use the blanks specs, usually they will give it in them, or you can measure the tip yourself with a set of calipers they are measured in 64ths.

What is the blank (power and tip action)?

St Croix SCIII casting. 6'8" med/ xf... 1/4-5/8oz

According to my spec sheets for builds on that blank..I used 5.5 tip top, and 13.5 ECS seats..

Hope that helped......