In the process of rebuilding the aforementioned outboard to power a little Larson.  Picked it up for real cheap and have replaced just about everything in the little 2 stroke from the impeller to the ignition parts and everything in between this past winter.  I'm writing this not to tell you about the painstaking process of learning the inner workings of an internal combustion outboard.  Rather I'm looking for the last piece to my puzzle.  I have failed to locate the female connector for the double fuel line that powers my little beast of a motor and I'd rather not row.  So, if you have one or have any idea where to locate one, please let me know.

 

Till the snow melts,

Jim     

Way2slow is probably the guy who can point you in the right direction

If not; iboats web site

Forget doing all that, if you don't have a good gas tank that goes with that motor, that's not all rusty inside, that connecotor is useless to you. The reason it has two lines is one fo the lines pressurizess the fuel tank, so only the tank designed for that motor works, and they are almost impossible to find in good condition, and someone is not wanting 10 prices for it.

What you do is convert it over to a fuel pump and then you can use the standard OMC connector and any of the plastic fuel tanks, with a fuel line and primer bulb.

It's been an ungodly number of years sine I've done one but I think you can mount the fuel pump they started using in the 60's and through the ages where the pulse line is. The pulse line is that hose going into the block and not the carburetor. If it won't mount directly to the block, with a gasket between the pump and block, then you will have to modify the pump or make something to get the pulse line connected to the pump. Then mount it and run your fuel lines.

The way the fuel pump works is every time the piston comes down on the cylinder the pulse line is on, it pressurizess that section of the crank case, which pushes the diafram in the fuel pump, causing it to pump a shot of fuel.

Since you say you are just learning, don't confuse how a two stroke works with a four stroke.

On a four stroke, the valves open when the piston starts going down. On a two stroke the valves close when the piston starts coming down. As the piston is coming down it is pressurizing the crank case. When the top of the piston clears the intake ports in the cylinder, the air/fuel mixture is blown into the cylinder under pressure. This charge under pressure is directed upward so it's pushing out the exhaust gas and filling the cylinder wit a fresh mixture. On a two stroke, the valves open when the piston starts back up and it pulls in a fresh charge of fuel/air into the crankcase to get ready for the next down stroke. About half way up, it seals of all ports and compresses the fresh charge to be fired by the plug when it gets to the top. It fires at the top of every up stroke of the piston, four strokes fires at the top of every other up stroke.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-Double-Line-Fuel-Connector-OMC-/161625091889?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item25a19b2f31&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/375587-0375587-OMC-Evinrude-Johnson-Double-Line-Fuel-Connector-Housing-Assembly/321295388251?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29947%26meid%3Dc57a63dd92c54863b4edfea17044f40b%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161625091889&rt=nc

Can't help you with finding your part Jim but I'm sure something will pop up.

 

When I was a kid, we had a 1952 fastwin 14HP. Basically the same motor. We used it on our 14 foot wood flat bottom bay skiff. With just me in the boat (don't forget I was a wee lad at the time), the boat would actually get up on a plane. The motor really ran and ran.

 

A couple of random thought about the motor, since my brother and me were small, the only way we could start the motor ourselves was to put it in reverse, which would lock the motor in the down position. This allowed us to pull the cord with both hands. The other big thing, even back then 1968 and on, the motor was louder than most 100 HP outboards of the day. That motor was really loud as I remember. There was some kind of coating on the float in the gas tank, for the fuel level indicator. One time we (my dad me and my brother) were in the Shark River Inlet (Belmar NJ), just returning from being off shore. Some of the coating on the float decided to separate from the float and this material got caught up in the fuel system. We made it in but the motor surged then almost died numerous times. All it took was flushing out the system but I remember being quite concerned for a while.

 

We also had a 1948 Evinrude Zepher. That was a direct drive 5.4 HP (4 cylinder) motor. Neither myself or my brother had the upper body strength to pull start that motor.

 

on edit: Don't forget that that motor is NOT a 50:1 oil/fuel mixture. And of course the above is correct, the tank is pressurized. The thumb plunger on top of the tank is used to pressurize the tank when you first start out. Post a pic when you get a chance.

About a half hour after I posted this topic I heard the same advice way2slow.  You're right I don't have a pressurized tank and all of them that I have seen want ridiculous money for inoperable units (need to be resealed, rust inside, etc.)  Do you recommend any fuel pump in particular? I've seen that the standard OMC fuel pump should work.  I already have a single line setup with a good tank so that would probably be the most cost-effective way.  

 

I had the grand idea to 'upgrade' and switch from a '72 Evinrude 9 1/2 hp to the '53 15 hp we're talking about now for more speed and having a motor that is more age appropriate for the boat.  So being able to use the same line and tank would be much more convenient for sure.  

 

Thomas- yes I was informed that the fuel mixture is different; 16:1 instead of 50:1. Thanks for the heads up though, no need to blow the motor on the first outing.   

If you can possibly post a picture of the motor where the pulse line is connected, I would be better able to tell you if an OEM pump will mount there. On some motors, They actually started casting the mounts for the fuel pump into the block several years before they started installing them.

The 70's - 80's etc OEM pump is probably your best option, it will just just take a little more work to use it, unless you can find a pump that is designed to be remoted and has a fitting for the pulse line.

As for the oil mixture, I would run 32:1. You have to realize when that motor was built, there was no such thing as two stroke TWC oil, they used 30W non detergent motor oil. The TWC oil is light years ahead of that old stuff. You could probably run it at 50:1 but 32:1 should be more than enough oil.

I just want to see a pic of the old girl.

I'll get some pictures up this afternoon then for reference.  I didn't think about the difference in oil technology and quality nowadays, you're right a less diluted mixture should be safe.  

Did you try:

 

http://www.vintageoutboard.com/

Hope these pictures suffice.  The motor is currently in pieces (hence no cover and lower unit)

 

Cheers,

Jim

And here is what the little bugger will hopefully push around!

Cool!

No luck on having the mount cast into block. That brass fitting just behind the carb looks like pulse line.

Did I understand you also have a 72 9.5? If so, use the pump off that one as a prototype to make a mount. I just cut a small rectangle of 1/4" thick aluminum about the width of the pump and a little longer to have a mounting tab. Drill and tap two holes using the pump mounting holes as a guide for location. Then drill a hole that centers on the pulse hole in the pump. Now drill hole large enough to tap it for 1/8" MPT barbed fitting. You want the barb fitting going through just enough to file it flat with the aluminum plate. Mount the pump, with a gasket between it and the barb fitting, find a place to secure it and run a hose between the two fittings.

That's my boat! Dang jim didn't realize you put so much work into that motor...

 

-Kyle

I found a kit that laings outboards sells online that has the pump, hoses and two prong connector.  Think I'm going to go with that, just have to muster up the courage to sink another $100 into a 62 year old motor.  Just about every internal piece on the thing will be new, the only thing I haven't touched is the carb.