been reading up and I like the oppinions on Burl cork,

Love the look of Burnt Burl Cork.

who all makes thier own cork handles?

I make all mine... and only use exotic burl (Lamar) these days.  If I remember correctly, most of the guys here turn their own grips.

The only handle that I have made I made out of Lamar exotic burl.

Laguana with burnt accents. I plan on using ONLY burl from this point on.

With my latest batch of rods, I've been focusing on weight.  I've been slowly scaling back items to obtain the lightest weight rods possible.  For me, cork is light, functional, and relatively cheap, so thats what I've been using of late.

bowtech182 nice handle, hope my first one turns out just close to it

Who's got a pic of thier lathe?  I seen Reelmech's on his therad and was wondering how he supports the mandrel on the other end, is it a rod supporter?

I'm gonna need some kind of layout or support for a drill like RM has.

Now I have seen the Flexcoat high dollar set up and I surley hope I can get something better price :

I would have to buy a drill anyway so what about a SEWING MACHINE MOTOR Lathe thats 7000rpm's. how could that work?

I use burl and cork.  But after reading up on burl will probably not use "real" cork after my current stash is gone.  Have been using the Burl from Mudhole without any problems.  Understand Lamar is the standard that all others are measured against but I have not used Lamar.

I will get some pics of my "lathe" setup and some recent cork work this evening.  I use a drill and my belt sander inverted in a jig I made to hold it.

Eddie

I use burl and cork. But after reading up on burl will probably not use "real" cork after my current stash is gone. Have been using the Burl from Mudhole without any problems. Understand Lamar is the standard that all others are measured against but I have not used Lamar.

I will get some pics of my "lathe" setup and some recent cork work this evening. I use a drill and my belt sander inverted in a jig I made to hold it.

Eddie

Cool, I have been pricing so much I'm seeing prices in my dreams ;D

I see the books on how to make a rod but what about the how to make the tools to make a rod :

I most deffentliy will share anything I come across.

Hey Eddie after pricing a couple things(which I limited on design) what about this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38515, u think it a work?

My lathe is almost exactly like that one.  It works out great for cork/burl handles, I have no idea how it works with wood tho.

Had a fella show me this that he uses from another site http://grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe/H2669

Like I said I'll share info.

Choices/choices :

here is my lathe set up.  

that is my gramps' old drill, i got it when he died.  it only has a 1/4 chuck, so it is useless for most stuff, but works for this.  i just used it for the first time this past weekend, it worked great.  i used a "paddle" bit as a mandrel, i just taped it up to fit the grip material.  but i would say if your making full length grips you would want a longer mandrel, but for the small grips in a split grip, it was perfect.  it didnt cost me anything, i used all scrap from work.

now thats right up my wallet, what kinda sucks is only frill I got is a cordless, I'll have to still look for a drill

mandrel just rest on the block correct red?

well originally that was my plan, to drill a hole in the far block for the mandrel to spin.  but until the time comes i need to make a full length grip, i am not worried about it.  but if you need one, here is a place to get them.

http://www.fishsticks4u.com/

look under the "tools" section

Sorry didn't get these up last night. But here are my "lathes".

After I glue up the cork rings will place on some straight stainless 1/4" bolts and shape. However, of late I have just been glueing up the rings, reaming and attaching to the blank where I turn down on the belt sander. The belt sander has been working real well for me. Its taken some practice but starting to work for me. Works well with EVA as well.

This is the latest handle I have done. The dark rings are burl and the rest are natural cork. Going to use honey oak wood filler on the natural to fill in the gaps, fine sand and then seal the whole thing.

Here is a shot showing the foregrip with the "finger notch" - made by shaping over the front roller.

Just curious, what specific purpose was the rod built for?  (I know its for fishing, LOL )

Love the handles ejtaylor822  when you put together the cork rings do you have much problem of the epoxy squeezing out very often? was wondering if I would come across that problem.

Another thing is the big belt sander, is it quicker? are the pics of the handles done by the belt sander? Cause thats a killer job man, I would have been fatiged way to early before that quality of handle came out ;D

Maybe you are to try ice sculpting with a chain saw if you can get that kinda detail with a beast of a sander

Just curious, what specific purpose was the rod built for? (I know its for fishing, LOL )

Hey, J. Francho, hope I am not being overly presumptuous here.  Assume your were asking about the rod above.

I haven't built it for any particular technique.  This is a Castaway blank rated at light power, fast action and lure wts from 1/4 oz to 5/8.  However, it feels to me like it is probably right on the border of being moderate to light action.  It's got a lot of backbone for a "light" rod.  The action is fairly fast but does have a pretty good curve when flexed so its not overly fast.  I would put it at the lower end closer to a mod-fast action.  

I believe this rod would make a decent light worm rod - tricks and split shot applications.  I use Fuji Alconite spinning and fly guides so it is very, very light and sensitive.  Think it would make a real good light slash/jerk and light swim baits along with light cranks and top waters.  In other words, think it is just a really good all around spinning rod   ; it's not going to excel at any one particular application but will do well in several applications in fairly open water/patterns.

Have built maybe half a dozen on this blank and the folks I have built for, along with myself, love this blank - and a $15 a blank can't be beat!!!!  I have built these as all split grips but wanted to do something with a more traditional look - why I have the long grip.  But, I love the feel of the spit and why I gave it the thin/hourglass shape above the butt.

Eddie

Thanks.  I was just curious since the handle appeared very beefy compared to what I am used to.  Its very nice looking cork work though, and I'm amazed at how symmetrical it is considering you're using the belt sander.  Sounds like a nice stick, though I'd prefer a shorter rear handle for jerks, but for worms and other presentations where you keep the rod tip up, it looks like it will be very comfortable to fish.

FishingBuds, thanks.

When I put my cork rings together, actually, I am looking for the epoxy/glue to squeeze out. Want to make sure that there is a solid joint/mate between the surfaces so I put it on thick - probably too thick - and make sure it has squeezed out all along the entire perimeter. If you look at the picture of the drill you will see a butt and aft grip I am making for another rod. All that mess on the outside is glue.

I use TiteBond III - waterproof, not water "resistant" (Titebond II) but water proof - for all my grips now. I use to use epoxy but after doing some research have recently switched over to the Titebond III. I say let it squeeze out!

I use the belt sander because that is all I have. All of my grips have been shaped on one or both of these. Of last half dozen or so rods all have been done on the belt sander including the one in the picture. I started using the belt sander, and made it, to accommodate some longer EVA grips I had with some surf rods I was building this past summer (pics below - couldn't help myself I love these rods).

Would absolutely love to have a lathe, but, have gotten so use to the sander not sure that I wouldn't continue using it. It's just a standard "run of the mill" Craftsman 21" belt sander I got at Sears years ago. Just built a jig to mount it on - actually, took a piece of scrap shelving board, drilled (4) holes for the cinch ties and chiseled out a small area under the front so it would lie level on the board - that is all.

The trick is in how the blank is held and turning it smoothly. Its taken practice, patience and going slow while it is being shaped. I turn down my grips by standing with my left side towards the sander and with the blank in front of me held in both hands; arms bent so that the blank is almost level on the sander. I turn real fast with my fingers while (attempt to) keeping my arms and hands perfectly still.

It's really not that hard, not sure about ice sculpting, but think anyone can do this. Honestly - just takes patience and going slow. For me its all about working with what I have.

Eddie

: dummy me, when I saw your drill mounted to a base and then your belt sander just sitting there I invisioned you holding the thing over a piece of cork creating a handle

well I get it now(I should've had a V8) Thanks for the pics again

With the feed back I believe I'll start off easy on making my handles, my first rod I wanna do is a spinning and split grip so I'll save the money and see what I end up doing.

Nice surf rods by the way

Didn't think anything about it.  Had a lot of folks that don't understand how the belt sander is used.  Never thought of combining the two.  You might be on to something here......

Just go slow.  Also, you can get good quality cork grips and not have to worry about glue ups, turning, etc.  Just ream and stick on.  Mudhole has them on sale right now.

Anyway, good luck.

Eddie

This is the latest handle I have done. The dark rings are burl and the rest are natural cork. Going to use honey oak wood filler on the natural to fill in the gaps, fine sand and then seal the whole thing.

Here is a shot showing the foregrip with the "finger notch" - made by shaping over the front roller.

Very cool low cost set-up ej! I may steal that one!