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papajoe222

Non Yellowing Epoxy Finish

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I'm looking into building three additional rods on white blanks and I need an epoxy that will dry and stay clear. The finish on my last white build made the butt wrap and decal noticeably darker than the blank.

Any recommendations would be very welcome.

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I used flex coat lite build on my fly rod build on a rodgeeks pearl white blank came out crystal clear. Prokote has been clear for my also but I'm finding cracks in it now after about 9 months of use in some areas.

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They all will yellow and the white blanks really accentuate it. The only finish I know that stays water clear is Permagloss. Problem with it is that's a really hot solvent and tends to melt some paint.

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Most epoxy eventually yellows if it spends enough time in the sun.  Flexcoat Lite comes in a variant that has UV inhibitors in it, at somewhat higher cost.. 

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I don't think UV is the problem. Its just the nature of the hardner to turn yellow. I store my finish in a medicine cabinet in my shop and only take it out to draw what I need, then immediately put it back. My hardner still yellows. My supplier has got finishes directly from the manufacturer that were already yellowed to the point they were unusable.

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Pro Kote specifically advertises its superiority in this regard, and I know that when first on it will not darken a white blank. Whether it is long-term better than the others, I'm not sure.  One reason I don't like it is that it takes so darned long to harden.  I keep thinking it's not going to, but it does.  Any epoxy needs to be measured exactly with syringes unless it's a weight-proportioned epoxy, then use scales.  If you don't, sooner or later you're going to have a failure to harden.

 

I like Flex Coat lite UV.  An expert on another forum says the UV inhibitors are to protect what's under the finish, not the finish itself.

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I tried Threadmaster One. This is a one part finish. No hardener, no mixing. I used it on one rod. It is crystal clear, but I have no idea what it will do over time. Like Scott said, it's the hardener that turns yellow. TM One has no hardener, so maybe it will stay clear. Who knows?

I will say that it is difficult to work with. It sets up quickly, so you'd best get it as level as you can right off the bat. It took me several attempts on a scrap chunk of blank to get it to look acceptable. About six thin coats is what it took. Also it shrinks as it cures, so you need a whole day between coats, longer if it's colder.

If I were doing a white rod and/or white wraps, TM One is what I would try. But that would be the only thing I would use it for. Flex Coat Lite and Threadmaster lite are both a lot easier for me.

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How's that TM One working out in the long run. I did a repair with it and when the rod got wet, the wrap turned white. After it dried out, it never got clear again. Stripped it off and redid it with TM lite and hi.

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Scott, I've read reports about TM1 going white after getting wet. The one rod I used it on did not get out of the cabin for a week after the last coat. It has never become discolored. Not saying that's the cure. I can't draw many conclusions from one experience.

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I've used the TM1 for repairs and what I noticed is it shrinks a lot so you have to over lap the end of the wraps. That may be why the moisture got in.

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I lapped it on to the blank, just like I do with epoxy. Might be good for an on the water/camp fix, but it has no place in my shop.

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I lapped it on to the blank, just like I do with epoxy. Might be good for an on the water/camp fix, but it has no place in my shop.

 That would be my take, as well. I do not intend to ever use it again.

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If threadmaster 1 dries so fast it is hard to use, then it is a moisture curing polyurethane and not an epoxy.  The polyurethanes do not turn yellow as the epoxies do, but as stated, they have problems of their own.  The epoxies are really casting resins, and they make a wrap look great, like the insects you've seen in the clear plastic cubes or rounds.  But they will not resist UV forever, and will turn amber with time.

 

The polyurethanes will give a different look to the wraps, usually taking many coats to create a smooth build.  But they do not turn amber.

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