S Hovanec

I've had a few rods in for repairs that had on the water repairs done with braid and finished with super glue. They were just fabulous to remove the guide and clean up the blank!

Mick is spot on with everything he said. I have some Threadmaster finish that's 5+ years old. I've microwaved the resin a couple times because of crystallization. It still cures like it was fresh. Every finish will eventually yellow. Some just do it at a quicker rate. Syringes are a cheap piece of mind to get exact measurements. My set of syringes is over 5 years old, just like the finish. I use the syringes until the numbers on the side are wore off, and then I toss them and break out a new set. I don't even store them in a ziploc. I just let them lay on my wrapping bench.

I use a rotozip drywall bit in my Dremel to cut the epoxy and thread off, on the guide foot. Then the guide just pops off and you can peel the wrap off.

I built one of the musky models for someone. Really nice blank. Love the matte brown color.

Thank you. It was from both. I cut blocks into strips to make the thinner trim.

I'm still searching! 6-13 is my PB.

My application process doesn't alter the feel. I apply it like a wood stain. With the grip turning on the lathe, I put a little bit on a paper towel and wipe it across the grip. I then take a dry paper towel and go back over it removing whatever wasn't absorbed by the cork. Here's a before/after pic showing what the TruOil does to composite cork.

I use Truoil on the composite cork grips I make. It darkens the burnt cork nicely and gives the natural burl a richer appearance.

RodForge has the whole rainbow and then some now. USA made blanks too. Check them out.

Surgical tubing cut into small rings, and dental ligatures for the guides towards the tip

It should have came with a MSO Manufacturer Statement of origin). That is what you need to get a title from the state

I prefer custom. That way it can be made to cover the trolling motor and outboard.

That Rod geeks is a good blank. I built that one tossing tubes.

No matter how many I build, I keep going back to the 5S69mlxf St Croix I built many moons ago, even though I gave it to my wife when I built a replacement on the newer 6-10 blank.

There are lots of builders that can build rods better than the NRX. IMO, they or rather poorly constructed for what they cost.

Cork Tennessee grip with slip rings for spinning and full cork with ECS seat for casting. I've tried those skeleton seats (Minima and SK2) and they're the most uncomfortable things I've ever held.

That is the easiest location to fix a break. Read that article and you should be able to accomplish it, as long as you have other broken rods to use as a sleeve.

I was disappointed in the power of my MXF Eternity. Fishes like my mag light NFC. Everything feels like a 4 pounder.

As said, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Epoxy it in and if it doesn't hold, get the guide replaced.

My rod bond does that on occasion. Like Mick said, a couple 5 second blasts in the microwave will fix it like new.

I haven't used brushes for 15+ years. I use pieces of promotional credit cards cut to various widths.

My method for applying peel n stick decals is to apply a coat of finish where the decal is to be placed and let it cure, then apply the decal. Put a coat of finish over the decal. The fresh, perfectly smooth coat of finish allows the decal to stick better than it will on the bare blank.

I don't know if it's better, but it is what the customer wanted.

I wrap by hand on my power wrapper, never cared for wrapping under power. Imo, its best use is applying finish at high speed. Second is long underwraps

My trash always went in to the livewell.