S Hovanec

I was surprised by the power of this model too. It's nowhere as powerful as the mlxf in their other lines.

That was my experience. 4 days from order to delivery, and 2 of those days it was sitting in customs at JFK.

I think it will be more detrimental to your line than anything

Yes, they are acrylic.

Thanks @Chris Catignani

The threaded sleeve is shorter and I feel the hood appearance is cleaner over the KDPS. I'm making my own sleeves and using the Fuji trim parts.

ECS with TVS hidden thread hood.

I haven't found a skeleton type casting seat yet that I find comfortable. And I don't care for the SK spinning seats either. And I thought that Fuji's ACS was a pretty nice design until I put one on a rod fished with it.

Another vote for the ECS.

I've made some grips and extensions for board members before. What are you looking for?

I'd toss a trolling bag out on each side and throttle up to get your speed.

Custom SCV 610MLXF extended to 7'.

Marketing 2005 Lund 17' Mr Pike Length: 17'2" Transom: 20" Beam: 93" Chine width: 82.5" HP: 140 2005 Lund 1775 Pro V Length: 17'2" Transom: 20" Beam: 93" Chine width: 82.5" HP: 150

I don't think you save any money, but you do get a better rod for what you spend. It also gives you a reason to buy lots of cool tools.

Spend a day fishing here then report back how superior glass is to aluminum.

I use both. I use lite for the first coat for good penetrat to the blank and filling the tunnels. I use regular build for the second (and sometimes third) coat to get the desired depth.

The NRXs and Conquests are a prime example of that! Lol.

I wrapped a rod once and was in a hurry to fish it so I didn't apply finish. I fished it and It rode around in my boat for years with just the thread. A guide occasionally got knocked out of alignment. I finally had to strip it and rewrap because the wraps were starting to get moldy. Imo, all the epoxy does is protect the thread.

The old white Veritas are most certainly thread under a very hard finish of some sorts. I made enough money replacing those junk guides to buy my lathe.

Never seen a rod with shrink wrap holding the guides.

I missed the part where he said for display only. I really need to pay closer attention!

That pic looks like a plate reel seat screwed on to the tap handle.

I use it for leader on my DS rods. A spool goes a long way.

I found an even easier way to strip guides than a razor blade. I chuck up a rotozip bit in my Dremel. Just run the bit across the top of the guide foot. You can strip every guide in less than a minute. Reel seats are fairly easy also since you're not trying to salvage the blank. Just cut the seat off, chuck it in a lathe and bore out the blank.

I have about 6 brand new soft touch Areos still in the package that are sticky. I buy the uncoated ones now.