If you're going to continue building rods, get yourself a small, accurate digital scale. Since I started using one for epoxy measurements, I've never had a bad batch. And, you can mix very small batches. I spent $50 to get an accurate scale.

 

Using Flex Coat Lite, a mix of 12 grains hardener to 14 grains of resin produces enough to do a complete guide set and a small decal. Half of that is enough for a guide set, or a long holo wrap, but not enough for both. That's well less than 5cc of each, which most recommend.

 

I started with a new pair of Flex coat bottles, and have used almost all of it up. Both bottles have about 1/4" left, and are at the exact same level after being measured out by weight. Eyeballing it into measuring cups did not produce that result.

 

There's no need to spend the extra for measuring cups. I use condiment cups from Walmart. A lot cheaper. Also, use a round stirring stick. A flat one makes too many bubbles in the mix. Two minutes is plenty of mix time. After mixing, while it's still in the cup, blow on it with a straw (I use a piece of clear plastic tubing), to get rid of the bubbles. Carbon dioxide helps break the surface tension of the mix, allowing bubbles to set themselves free. Then pour it out onto a flat piece of aluminum foil. This will heat sink the mix, giving you more working time.

Take note : if mixing by weight the parts are not equal by weight. Mixing cup is close enough for adhesive but not finish. I prefer the measuring syringes and have no problem. Mixing time is less important than scraping thoroughly and watching the epoxy. It should be clear and streak free. Stir slowly actually folding the mix.

The best quote I have ever heard in this business is from DOCSKI, the master builder, 

 

"Its about progression not perfection" - Docski

Definitely on par with my first attempt as well. Metallics are definitely harder to wrap with also, but the wrap actually looks pretty good.

To get a clean edge on your epoxy finish, never touch the blank with the brush. Place the brush at the edge of the wrap and push down letting the epoxy push from the edge of the wrap onto the blank. It just takes a few turns of the drying motor with the brush pushed down before it starts to form a clean edge. Let dry. Apply a second coat, and it will look really good. Try it on a dowel and you'll get it in no time. Thank Mike from DVT for that tip.

Riley Rods has a very nice small scale that I use with their epoxy which is mixed 2:1 by weight.  Keep in mind that some epoxy components may not be the same density so measuring by weight may not be appropriate.  Oviously, it's OK with Flex Coat as mentioned above, but with other brands I would check with the source before using weight instead of volume.  I agree that proportioning by weight is very accurate, and I've never had any problem with Riley epoxy.  The Riley scale is less than $15, if I remember right.

I took mine to the chem lab on campus for a specific gravity check. Can't do any better than that to establish proportions.

Hey it's the first one, don't be so hard on yourself.  Doesn't look bad, I've always thought about it and never had the nerve to try one.  

You just completed a rod you can fish with.. It's more than I can say for myself. I'm having one built... I'm getting great support from this

 

great group of experienced rod builders here in the forum, As you know they are more than willing to help along so, keep on truckin!