Where are the thru hull fittings located that you guys are referring to that I should check? What kind of silicone should I use to reseal fittings, etc., GE Bathroom found at Lowes?

I'm trying to attatch a picture. Not sure if its gonna work. It's not your hull and its terrible since I took it using a flashlight but maybe it'll help. There are four thru hull fittings that you can see. Outside right and left that have the strainer, those are intakes for the livewells, the two in the middle are livewell drains. Yours may be different but shouldn't be much different. If I were to unscrew the strainers on mine and plug all four hull fittings , I would be isolating my livewell plumbing from lake water.

I'm trying to attatch a picture. Not sure if its gonna work. It's not your hull and its terrible since I took it using a flashlight but maybe it'll help. There are four thru hull fittings that you can see. Outside right and left that have the strainer, those are intakes for the livewells, the two in the middle are livewell drains. Yours may be different but shouldn't be much different. If I were to unscrew the strainers on mine and plug all four hull fittings , I would be isolating my livewell plumbing from lake water.

Thanks Dink for the info. Mehy configuration is a little different. The 2 live well intakes are on the left and right of the main drain plug. The live well outlet drain hose (only 1) is to the right of all holes on the outside bottom of the transom.

Golfnutt, bring that boat to Kansas City and I'll be glad to help you find your leak.  Sounds like you need some on site assistance.

 

We can resolve your light issues at the same time.

If you're going to take it to a dealer or mechanic don't tell them to replace all the livewell stuff. Tom is telling you to have them check the fittings and hoses. I think there's a good chance that replacing will fix it but its a gamble. There are times when you have to throw parts at something to hopefully fix it. I don't think that's your particular case. Tell them to find the problem. Testing on the water is best in my opinion but all the livewells, livewell fittings, and thru hull fittings can be tested out of the water.

Regardless of how you attack it, you definitely need to get it taken care of. Wood is more susceptible to water than glass but glass can also be damaged in certain situations. Water can be wicked between glass mats and cause de-lamination.

Thanks Dink, I am definitely getting it fixed before it goes in the water again.

I may just take you up on that offer if I can't get it fixed within the week.  I need a little vacation anyway.

^ that's a good tip. I'm gonna try that for sure. Probably not as bad to deal with down the road as using the 3m 5200 either.

 

I love 3M 5200.  It cannot be beat.  But, I do not recommend using it on thru-hull fittings, among other places.  Once it sets, and has a good bond, it can only be removed mechanically, by cutting, grinding or some other destructive method.

 

It's like the stuff is welded.  Don't put it on anything that may need to be taken apart down the road.

If you're going to take it to a dealer or mechanic don't tell them to replace all the livewell stuff. Tom is telling you to have them check the fittings and hoses. I think there's a good chance that replacing will fix it but its a gamble. There are times when you have to throw parts at something to hopefully fix it. I don't think that's your particular case. Tell them to find the problem. Testing on the water is best in my opinion but all the livewells, livewell fittings, and thru hull fittings can be tested out of the water.

Regardless of how you attack it, you definitely need to get it taken care of. Wood is more susceptible to water than glass but glass can also be damaged in certain situations. Water can be wicked between glass mats and cause de-lamination.

 

 

 

 

Great point.  This is especially important for boats that are subjected to freezing temps.  The expanding ice has no problem destroying the integrity of the composite.  And, once it starts, it can progress rapidly.

Where are the thru hull fittings located that you guys are referring to that I should check? What kind of silicone should I use to reseal fittings, etc., GE Bathroom found at Lowes?

If you're going to do this, use 3M's 4200 sealant.  Take it from someone that works in the marine industry.  It costs more but well worth it and ment for the job.  It has the same qualities as 5200 sealant, only you can take things back apart.  Used it to seal screw holes on sportfishing boats I worked on to keep the water from creeping into the wood, but yet I could remove the screw if needed in the future.

Thanks Dan. Please see my comments just above this post to Tom.

Your welcome and that will work. Good luck to you and hope you get to enjoy the boat. Dan

If you're going to do this, use 3M's 4200 sealant.  Take it from someone that works in the marine industry.  It costs more but well worth it and ment for the job.  It has the same qualities as 5200 sealant, only you can take things back apart.  Used it to seal screw holes on sportfishing boats I worked on to keep the water from creeping into the wood, but yet I could remove the screw if needed in the future.

 

Thanks Captain Fishstick.  Where can I buy this stuff or should I just let me marine dealer do this?  Thanks.

Thanks Captain Fishstick.  Where can I buy this stuff or should I just let me marine dealer do this?  Thanks.

You can get it at any marine supplier, it's a staple product. They stock it at my local Home Depot and WalMart, but your mileage may vary. 

Thank you Snake head Whisperer for that info.

Rick

Home Depot or Lowes even should have it.  Look and see if the 4200 is slow cure or fast cure.  Now fast cure isn't fast, I believe it has a 24 till its cured as where the slow cure is a bit longer. Both clean up with Paint thinner or mineral spirits.  If they don't have it order it online from a marine supplier. 

Thanks for the info GulfCaptain.  Have a good one.

The only difference between 3 M4200 and 5200 is strength, 5200 is stronger, both elastic elastic when cured.

Both are available in fast or standard cure and both cure underwater. I use the 5200 because it's navy approved and I have access to it, the 4200 is less expensive and easier to find, both will work for through hull fittings.

Good luck with the repairs, would be nice to know the exact leak path before making repairs.

Tom

Thanks Captain Fishstick.  Where can I buy this stuff or should I just let me marine dealer do this?  Thanks.

 

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-4200-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B003XPF8BU

Just in case you missed it.  4200 is available in black or white in the URL above.  Click on the right thumbnail to select white.