Would like to get second prop for boat, 2014 Mercury90, 4-stroke.  (BOAT LENGTH) 18.7

Question; What performance prop to increase top end speed for that engine would be beat?

Thinking of keeping stock alloy prop as spare.. 

ANY ADVICE ? Thanks in advance.

 

What prop are you running now?  What are your rpms on plane, top speed with the set up you have?  Have to know what you're already working with to give you a suggestion.

Your engine has a max rpm range. You need to work within those parameters. For what it's worth, aluminum props are inexpensive. You may gain some performance going to a stock SS prop but it might not be worth the expense. I do know there are some guys who have put SS props on their Trackers that have had cupping added to them, to gain a few mph.

Thanks for your comments. Just broke-in. (20) hours..Top speed: 48 mph, with two passengers. memory? rpm @ plane 5200-5400. Maybe 5600 rpms.Tracker 190 hull. I'll look up specs. for max. rpm.

Nephew mentioned if, hitting floating log/stump, when you have a SS prop, could rip lower unit off, v/s stock alloy prop just being damaged. Any thoughts? 3 blade or 4 blade?

Would that be an item, I could buy and install myself?  Or, Does the prop manufacturers custom make with right pitch, blades and hub connection for the MERCURY models?

Thanks again,

Hopefully, if you hit a stump, all you would do is spin a hub. As far as  the SS prop, you would buy the prop and send it to a performance prop shop where it could have cup added

PRICLESS,  The ones, I've seen run $500-550. Is that in the range? These performance prop shop common or easy to find locate?

Do you guys ship to the ones, that are better then others? Tuning expense? ish...

Thanks

 

Google Mark Croxton

you still haven't stated what pitch your prop is

Gulfcaption, don't know? It's stock for BPS Mercury 90 4 stroke, I'll get with them on Monday, Service not open on weekends here in D.C. area. I'll post A.S.A.P.

Thank you, Sir

The pitch of the prop should be stamped somewhere on the prop. It will be likely be a number with the letter P behind it.  Could also be on the washer between the prop nut and the prop. If you can find a number stamped anywhere on either of those you could likely google that number and figure out what you've got. 

Without knowing the pitch of your prop you're running you won't be able to see if you need more prop (which would be more pitch) or less.  And then you talked about a 4 blade.  That will get you out of the hole a bit faster but not give you as fast of a top end speed.  Once you see what your pitch is you can see if you need more rpms (less pitch) if your motor is not winding up all the way or a little more pitch if it feels like it's cavitating and running up on the rpms.  These are things you need to know about your new boat (talking about what ptich prop you're using/have) and should have asked when you purchased your new toy.  But you are learning.

If you are running an aluminum prop, a SS prop will make an improvement.  During hole shot and wide open throttle (WOT) running, the blades on the aluminum prop have usually fold back and distort some, reducing efficiency.  Also the blades on the SS prop are much thinner than the aluminum props so they are more efficient at cutting through the water, giving a little more speed and performance.   As protecting the engine, both prop have rubber hubs in them that act like clutches so if you hit some they help adsorb the impact and are "supposed" to slip.  However, as with anything, when a moving object comes in contact with an immovable object, bad things can happen.  Both can damage the lower unit if the boating gods are not feeling good that day.  The biggest difference is the cost of repair to the props.  It cost a lot less to repair an aluminum prop and you can buy a new aluminum prop for almost what it cost to get a SS prop repaired.   If you are rough on props, the SS is actually better, small dent, dings and what have you can be tapped out, and ground off smooth again with a stone. (Don't file, prop repair shops hate people that file on them.  This can leave bits of hard teeth in the metal and when the TIG hits them, it can get ugly)  The aluminum usually just breaks chunks out. 

Now, before looking at props.  You need to get a good feel for your boat.  Being a new boat owner, don't just go running down and buying a new SS prop because you feel that's the thing you need.  Know exactly how many RPM it's turning with your normal load at WOT.  If you fish with two people, and the live well full, you want to know the exact RPM it's turning then.  Also, it can turn a couple hundred more rpm in cold, winter water, that it does in warm summer water.   Make sure you are comfortable with how it's set up and you have figured out the best trim positions when running.   Having good, exact data is critical when selecting the right prop.  Junk data, usually leads to a junk $500+ prop. 

Now the hard part, just what prop is best for YOUR boat.  There are tons of props, all have advantages and disadvantages on certain hulls.  Other than my jon boats, I don't own and never have owned a tin can so don't have a clue what style prop works best on your particular hull.  The three blade, high rake, performance props most guys, like me, run on their high performance, riser hull bass boats are usually not the best prop to run on boats that don't have a pad that lifts most of the boat out of the water.   They can actually hurt performance because they are designed to give a lot of bow lift and on boats like yours that can't take advantage of that lift, they tend to push the stern deeper into the water, creating more drag.  Props with a little less rake and with extra stern lift designed into them generally make a much better prop for your style boat.  So, this site has a lot of info on boat setups and from people with your same setup.   Probably would pay you to go surfing, reading and asking.  Just try to seine through the good from the BS.

Having one for your boat custom tuned, that's usually over $200 and not real sure you would see the benefit.  The ones on my Javelin tuned but there is a huge difference between the performance level of my boat and yours.  The guy I have used for many years and as good as they come, is Bob Lipton, Performance Propellers. The last time I talked to him, he was talking about selling out, so not sure if he's still doing them or not.  He may already have a prop like you need, not sure how much he keeps in stuff for smaller engines. 

My feelings on aluminum props, I guess they would do for a lighter weight spare since you already have one, but I don't even keep one laying around for that.  My 4hp is the only motor I have that has one. 

Way2slow, thank you, Boat's in storage, due to 30+ inch of snow in Maryland. I will try to contact, Mr. Lipton.

I will be ordering the Phoenix 921 Pro XP, later this year. That is why, I am eager to trick out the Tracker, to leave for Nephew, at summer home.

Plus, learn, what I like or dislike about all the improvements, I'm inquiring about and installing.

Really appreciate your in-put, it has cleared up a lot.

Mercury Lazer II, 20 pitch SST prop.

Your prop has a clutch biult into it to pretect the drive line components, similar to a shear pin. Doesn't make any difference if you hit something at speed with a aluminum or SST prop, the Lower unit damage will be the same, the prop damage will be less with SST.

Trackers are not biult for speed, they are intended for entry level weekend bass anglers.

A lot of anglers learn to fish with Trackers and up grade, I suggest you do the same.

Tom

PS, Phil's propellers, Lake Shasta CA, go online, is one of the best in the country to recommend the correct prop for you and should have something in stock at a discount, they ship everywhere.