Hey guys,I 've been hankering to make my own fishing rods for quite awhile.I've got the materials to make myself a wrapping jig.I've also settled on starting out with rodbuilding kit from mudhole or a similar company.My question is this; I'm assuming that a spinning rod would be much easier for a beginner having less eyes to wrap etc.However I don't use a spinning reel that much and I really need a crankin' stick.Is there any good reason not to start out with a casting rod?

The only real difference in building a casting rod is that the guides are on top. If you decide to do a cranking rod, be choosy about the blank. Feel free to contact me if I help with something specific. Good luck!

Not easier, less number of individual wraps (feet/guides) but probably about the same actual amount of thread being wrapped since the spinning feet are much larger.  Either way, the difference is so small it should not factor in your equation at all.

Here's a link with some good beginner info:

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1170958187

Spine placement is the key difference right?

Many builders prefer to build on the straightest axis regardless of spine placement. Each method has it's advocates. I use a combination and defer one way of the other depending on the specifics of the build.

Spine placement is the key difference right?

The spine is irrelevant.  It does not have an impact on the fishability of the rod.

Spine Or "Effective Spine" is an effect created by several manufacturing anomalies. The result is that the rod blank will favor bending along a particular axis when load is applied.

Tight Lines All!

Spine placement is the key difference right?

The spine is irrelevant. It does not have an impact on the fishability of the rod.

SAYS WHO ??????????

A casting rod might have a few more guide wraps, but the layout will generally be easier to setup with a casting rod.  Also, not sure if you know what reel you are using, but most bass casting reels are generally the same size which isn't the case with spinning reels.  I just finished a crankbait rod with all size 4 Fuji micros and am very happy with it.  My suggestion is build the rod you want, take your time and keep it simple, and you will have a great performing rod that will last you a long time.

As far as building a spinning rod, you will actually have more time vested in it. The testing/tuning process to gain optimal casting distance and placement for the choke guide can sometimes take an hour or more. Location of the butt guide location to tame the line prior to reaching the choke guide and running guides is critical. Buying a kit may not offer you the correct sized guides to truly optimize the the performance of the blank you are building on.

Building a casting rod can be much easier to fine tune due to the simple fact the line comes off the baitcasting reel in pretty much a straight line. It is much easier to keep the line "flowing" through the guides. The line is not spiraling off the reel face.

Spline/spine is up each individual builder. Some very good builders will build on the spine, other very good builders will build opposite, and others will build on the straightest axis. Personally I say when you purchase a blank, it should be straight, or as close to straight as possible. Why build on a crooked blank. If it isn't straight send it back to whomever you purchased it from. As far as on the spine or not, build the rod both ways and see which way the rod performs better. You do not fight a fish on one plane. The rod tip will twist, to which ever side the fish pulls to. The spine will only be at one point not at all the other points a rod will be used in. Even while casting, the blank is not moving on one plane. The natural motion of your arm and wrist will cause the rod to be on several different planes while the spine is still only on one plane. If you build on the spine, your rod will perform at a satisfactory level, and will not break if it is built and used properly. If you build off the spine, your rod will still preform at a satisfactory level and will not break if it is built and used properly.

As far as guides on top, or guides on bottom, you can always build a spiral wrap and have the guides on the bottom of a baitcasting rod also.

Spine placement is the key difference right?

The spine is irrelevant. It does not have an impact on the fishability of the rod.

Please read this.  These people are authorities on the matter.

SAYS WHO ??????????

Physics.

If you fished only on a single plane, it may have some effect. We know we don't fish on a single plane, so it doesn't matter.

If you don't believe physics, believe Tom Kirkman, Rich Forhan, and other pioneers in rodbuilding. Go to rodbuilding.org and see what the rodbuilding community has to say about spine.

Now on to straight blanks. Of course a straight one is optimal, but if you sent back all the crooked ones, you'd have none left to build on. A gradual and small bend will not affect performance. A crook, or sudden departure from straight, will.

Please read this, these people are authorities on the subject.

http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,344296,page=1

I build along the spine.

Here is my take... until someone can prove beyond any shadow of doubt that building along the spine is detrimental to the rod's performance or longevity I will continue to do it this way. Why? Simple, I can't prove that it doesn't help, it's part of my build routine and the trigger to line up & mark all the parts. And since the authorities only say they can't prove it helps, they obviously can't prove that it doesn't.

The truth is that is you and I don't know with certainty that it does or does not benefit the build. But as long as there is that possibility, I'll spend the 2 minutes needed to get out the jig and mark it.

Ninemiller-

Actually if you want to talk physics, it does impact a rod's casting performance. It might be smaller than you or I can measure but that doesn't make it go away.

For the record, I also consider Tom K and those guys to be authorities on the subject... but that doesn't make everything they say accurate. Build trends, component choices and techniques have evolved- and with that, their opinions have changed. Remember, these are the very same guys that used to say that building along spine was the only correct method.

Edited to add:

to the OP- I think casting rods are easier to build than spinning rods, for new builders.  Guide placement takes less learning on a basic casting rod than spinning. 

I build along the spine.

Here is my take... until someone can prove beyond any shadow of doubt that building along the spine is detrimental to the rod's performance or longevity I will continue to do it this way. Why? Simple, I can't prove that it doesn't help, it's part of my build routine and the trigger to line up & mark all the parts. And since the authorities only say they can't prove it helps, they obviously can't prove that it doesn't.

The truth is that is you and I don't know with certainty that it does or does not benefit the build. But as long as there is that possibility, I'll spend the 2 minutes needed to get out the jig and mark it.

Ninemiller-

Actually if you want to talk physics, it does impact a rod's casting performance. It might be smaller than you or I can measure but that doesn't make it go away.

For the record, I also consider Tom K and those guys to be authorities on the subject... but that doesn't make everything they say accurate. Build trends, component choices and techniques have evolved- and with that, their opinions have changed. Remember, these are the very same guys that used to say that building along spine was the only correct method.

Edited to add:

to the OP- I think casting rods are easier to build than spinning rods, for new builders. Guide placement takes less learning on a basic casting rod than spinning.

.............

Flech,

I like your take. You are right, you can't prove it is detrimental, but you can't prove it is beneficial either. One thing is for sure, if you build a rod with a slight bow in the blank, as the majority of them have, it will be harder for you to sell that rod than one built on the straightest axis, unless of course you can sell the benefits of building on spine to the buyer. (Can you? I cannot) Most of us lowly fisherpeople don't understand or care about those things anyway. We want a rod that looks nice and performs well. We know that a lighter rod is more sensitive than a heavy one, we know that a shorter rod gives us more leverage. We know a longer rod will help cast farther given the recommended line and lure weights are used. We know the spine is basically a by-product from manufacturing and a spineless blank is ideal as there would be no tendency for the blank to want to "twist" toward an axis- for lack of a better description- when a load is applied.

I will concede that while I still don't buy it, the argument for building on spine is stronger for buiders who build spiral wrapped rods, or spinning rods specifically for the purpose of vertical jigging as there is less rotational force since there is no casting. Also, once the fish starts pulling, the force applied by the angler is lifting on a vertical plane, where this plane may be more horizontal for casting applications. Still, in vertical jigging, once a fish is hooked, rotational force is applied.

Long story short, if you want to use your rod to drop a grappling hook or something and raise an inanimate object from the depths, no fight, no cast, no moving around the boat, then the benefits of building on spine would be maximized.

It only takes a second to find the spine and maybe less if you have some specialized equipment to hold the rod. If you want to build on spine, go ahead. I am not convinced there are any benefits, and I am not so sure there is anything detrimental either, beyond the possibility of building a rod that does not appear straight when sighting from tip to butt. Many experts, as you have pointed out, feel the same way.

Regarding casting vs. spinning- I agree, in fact, I believe you only need to use one size of guide the whole way to the tip.  If this is your first build, I'd go with size 6.  Then, when you are comfortable, move to 4s.  I think I would only use one double footed guide at the butt, the rest single footed fly guides.

Only use as many guides as you need to keep the line higher than the center of the blank when under load. 

Spinning is a different story, and while it is not complicated, you need to do some work.  Here is a resource.

http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/spinningNGC.pdf

Now on to straight blanks. Of course a straight one is optimal, but if you sent back all the crooked ones, you'd have none left to build on.

I have only built on about 75 blanks. Excepting a couple of blanks that were "arguably" a little bent, I have had much better luck than you. I bought a 10' Lamiglas that had a pretty good crook near the tip, but it was sold as a defective rod at an enormous discount. I cut off the first inch and half and it turned out to be a first class surf rod. Most of the blanks I have used are Loomis, Lamiglas, St. Croix and Sage so maybe budget blanks are more prone to being a little warped? BTW I build on the spline also and have never had a complaint. JMHE

Ronnie