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MikeOGNR

Trolling using mono?

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Hey guys I will be going up north this weekend fishing. Gonna troll a little bit and fish conventional lures casting. When trolling I was going to use my baitcast we 7' med heavy action with 12 lb mono if I was to troll effectively how much line should I let out to achieve desired depth? Say between 15-25 ft rough estimate my lure will most likely be a keitech 5 in swimbait. Any tips would help just wanna troll the most effective way I can. Also boat control as well how to steer the boat to effectively cover water etc... 

 

Thanks Mike 

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15 minutes ago, MikeOGNR said:

Hey guys I will be going up north this weekend fishing. Gonna troll a little bit and fish conventional lures casting. When trolling I was going to use my baitcast we 7' med heavy action with 12 lb mono if I was to troll effectively how much line should I let out to achieve desired depth? Say between 15-25 ft rough estimate my lure will most likely be a keitech 5 in swimbait. Any tips would help just wanna troll the most effective way I can. Also boat control as well how to steer the boat to effectively cover water etc... 

 

Thanks Mike 

15 to 25 ft is awfully too close to the boat, the distance you can achieve with a cast would be a good starting point as the distance between you and the bait.

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Be aware that with 12lb test mono, let out 100 feet, an average trolling distance, and line stretch will make feeling hits difficult. You will feel more of the hits with heavier line, and less with lighter lines. Thicker lines will reduce the running depth of the lure. Thinner braid will let your lures run deeper and would allow you to feel all the hits. 

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Mono is for shock absorption, which is good when you're moving at 3+ MPH and a big fish like a muskie hits a bait with treble hooks.

I don't think any of this applies to what you're doing.  I fish a big lake for smallies, and I sometimes troll swimbaits to find them.  I always use braid with a fluoro leader.  To troll, I cruise at about 1.0 about MPH, and cast off the back of the boat as far as I can.  Usually, that's about 125 feet.  If the lure is constantly ticking the bottom, I use a lighter head.  I also hold the rod in my hand so that I can detect strikes and set the hook.  That's about all there is to it.

 

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3 hours ago, Raul said:

15 to 25 ft is awfully too close to the boat, the distance you can achieve with a cast would be a good starting point as the distance between you and the bait.

No I meant like depth wise under the water like what it will run at. Haha

3 hours ago, portiabrat said:

Mono is for shock absorption, which is good when you're moving at 3+ MPH and a big fish like a muskie hits a bait with treble hooks.

I don't think any of this applies to what you're doing.  I fish a big lake for smallies, and I sometimes troll swimbaits to find them.  I always use braid with a fluoro leader.  To troll, I cruise at about 1.0 about MPH, and cast off the back of the boat as far as I can.  Usually, that's about 125 feet.  If the lure is constantly ticking the bottom, I use a lighter head.  I also hold the rod in my hand so that I can detect strikes and set the hook.  That's about all there is to it.

 

I'm going for pike this weekend would this technique work in that application? Also boat wise how do you go about controlling it do you just drive in a straight pattern or do you do a zig zag type movement 

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23 minutes ago, MikeOGNR said:

No I meant like depth wise under the water like what it will run at. Haha

I'm going for pike this weekend would this technique work in that application? Also boat wise how do you go about controlling it do you just drive in a straight pattern or do you do a zig zag type movement 

Elwood "Buck" Perry's Spoonplugging Your Guide to Lunker Catches!

It ain't just about Spoonplugs!

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1 hour ago, MikeOGNR said:

No I meant like depth wise under the water like what it will run at. Haha

I'm going for pike this weekend would this technique work in that application? Also boat wise how do you go about controlling it do you just drive in a straight pattern or do you do a zig zag type movement 

I have accidentally caught them on Keitechs, but trolling jerkbaits like HJ 12's or Lucky Craft 128's work better if you're targeting pike (use a wire leader or 80+ lb fluoro leader, though).  I typically aim for 2.0 MPH.  Zig-zagging a bit helps because it makes your lures run at different speeds.

There's a lot to learn about trolling, and I don't know much of it.  This time of year, I typically start by trolling weed lines; inside turns with cabbage and deep water access are the best.  If nothing bites, I'll troll rocky points and drop-offs.  If that doesn't work, I'll follow the same pattern I followed for points and drop offs, but maybe 50 feet farther from shore.  Usually, I get at least a few this way.  The pigs tend to be farther from shore, near big schools of bait.

 

 

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Remember when back trolling was the only way to troll and control the boat at very slow speeds?

Trolling isn't just dragging a lure behind your boat unless drinking beer and getting a sun tan is the goal.

Every lure runs differently and one way to know is run it beside the boat, adjust speed until the lure runs the way you think it should. The depth a lure will run depends on several factors, line type, diameter and water resistance all affect how a lure runs and at depth it can run at. Take a look at trolling keel weights with a bead chain and swivel clips that help lures to run a little deeper and use wire leader.

Crank baits are easier to troll because you can feel if they get fowled by weeds, swimbait can go through weeds without getting fowled by weeds, depending on how you rig them. With swim baits take several different jig head weights to control running depth. S trolling patterns are a good suggestion to change the lure pace, direction and cover different depth ranges.

Mono doesn't stretch any more than FC. With toothy fish you need a wire leader like Surflon Micro 49 tieable leader material.

Good luck.

Tom

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