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I recently purchased a 1968 Sea King aluminum v hull. The previous owner built a casting deck and floor. I wanted to clean the boat well. I removed the floor for good, because it was gross. One section of the casting deck is easily removable. The frontal section has a hatch and is still there. None of the wood is sealed. I want to redo the deck and do it right. The boat has two bench seats made of wood, which may be sealed, but I don't know. They are in great shape. The bow has an aluminum triangle for my Powerdrive unit. 

Some specs for the build:

Total length:13.5'

Longest Width: 62"

Transom Width: 52"

Depth at transom: 24"

Transom: 4' x 6" x 1"

Bench: 48" x 10" x 1"

Transom to first bench: 28"

Transom 1 to bench 2: 36"

Bench 2 to existing platform: 36"

Existing platform to bow: 36"

Bench and current deck are 9 inches below the top of the boat.

The captains chair is off centered, but it does not have a hole in the wood.
IMG_3227.JPG<--- floor and deck 1 removed

floor in deck 1 out --->IMG_3225.JPG

my goalMirrocraft1615-ODelivery097.jpgIMG_3180.JPG<--- boat w/ deck and floor

IMG_3229.JPGmy plan

I want a high quality conversion that can fish 1 or two people with ample storage for rods, tackle, etc. I want to add a rod locker. on top, I will store my rods that will be used often, won't be for standing. The other side will be for storing tackle and lifejackets, and maybe a livewell. The casting deck will have a battery hatch, and I may want to add a big hatch, unless it is too structurally complicated. I can just go through the battery hatch if need be. I want the whole deck to be about 3" or so below the lip of the boat. Same with the rod locker and storage compartment. The bench by the main trolling motor will be exposed in the middle. I will move the captain's chair to the middle. The are behind the deck and next to the storage and rod locker is 2' by 6'. That will have 1/2 inch plywood floor with carpet. I may consider a hatch for the battery, but that will likely come later. The front deck will have a pedestal chair, which i currently use. 


1. Remove current casting deck

2. Sand the lower part of the hull

3. Coat the lower hull in truck bed liner to prevent leaks and damage and noise

4. Frame Casting deck with cardboard

5. Get all necessary hardware

6. Run three 4" x 4" s from bench 2 to front area

7. Add carpet to plywood with glue and staples with overlap

8. Screw plywood deck into the 4" x 4" s

9. Create skeleton for rod locker and casting deck

10. Cover locker with .25" or .5" plywood

11. Carpet rod locker and storage area

12. Make separate compartments for 3700 size boxes, plastics, and live well/extra storage

13. Add front hatch

14. Add front seat

15. Get on the water and try it out!

What do you guys think?

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Do you know why the current captain's chair is not mounted in the middle of the boat? It is much easier to operate an outboard or even a transom mounted trolling motor if the seat is off center. You might reconsider moving it. If the boat in the picture below is your boat now, I'd keep it just the way it is. It may not be the perfect boat for you now, but in a few years, you'll be able to buy the boat that is your goal. The amount of work and money needed to upgrade this the way you have laid out will be nicer, but won't put more fish over the side.

13 minutes ago, CrustyMono said:

IMG_3180.JPG<--- boat w/ deck and floor



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4x4's weigh a lot and are probably overkill. If you're adding weight, you need to add floatation. That boat probably only has a weight rating of 800lbs or so. That includes you, the motor, batteries, fuel, and gear. If you're adding all that extra weight, you need to add closed cell foam or you will be risking your safety

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When laying out a plan use grid paperand make your width measurements at the level where things are mounted, a V hull runabout has a lot of flare on the sides, the seat level would be a good starting point. If your boat runs on a plane, the battery may get damaged in the bow, shouldn't be an issue with electric motors.


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