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Improved Zoom Super Fluke Rigging with Owner Twistlock CPS and Heat Shrink - instructions w/ pics

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I love using Zoom Super Flukes, especially under docks. However, it seemed that with weightless Texas Rigging the hole where the hook goes through the fluke would eventually get tore up and allow the hook to poke through too much ruining it's weedlessnes and it would start fouling a lot on weeds. 

 

I saw a video on here posted by another Bass Resource'r that showed using a medium Owner CPS Twistlock to nosehook the fluke like a Banjo Minnow. It seemed great so I tried it. However, I lost 3 CPS Twistlocks because the opening was just too big for the hook. They weren't lost fighting fish, just during casting. Since I didn't want to change the hook or Twistlock size I had to find a way to keep it on. Owner CPS Twistlocks aren't cheap, so I wanted to avoid losing them. I thought about it and tried putting on some Heat Shrink Tubing on the hook first, then adding the Twistlock, and then putting the rest of the heat shrink over the hook and cutting the excess heat shrink. 

 

We tried it out today and if worked great. Caught a lot of sunnies and largemouth including this 3.5lber. Didn't lose any more Flukes or Twistlocks. 

 

Also, for some reason this seems to be more weedless than any other way I've tried rigging Super Flukes, including T-Rigging.

 

 

What you need:

 

1.)  Zoom Super Fluke

 

2.)  1/8" inch Heat Shrink

 

3.)  Owner Twistlock CPS - medium size

 

4.)  Hook of your choice (I like 2/0 Owner Mosquito Hooks)

 

 

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IMG_0557.JPG.711bd1a3c0dd062d129bf45fc46eb222.JPG

 

 

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I've never used this setup but its always great when you try to make something better and it actually works. Thanks for sharing

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10 minutes ago, riverbasser said:

I've never used this setup but its always great when you try to make something better and it actually works. Thanks for sharing

 

 

I always battle between using weightless Senko's with tubing or Zoom Super Flukes for docks and open water fishing. Right now I'm using the flukes a lot. Will I go back to the Senkos, not until I stop catching fish on the flukes I guess. 

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Great tips but around here you have to run them weedless. Would be great for the guys that fish less weedy lakes.

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Try that same setup with a SK caffeine shad, i used to throw a lot of flukes until I found the caffiene shads. 

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Just now, kickerfish1 said:

Great tips but around here you have to run them weedless. Would be great for the guys that fish less weedy lakes.

 

 

T-Rigging and skinning the hook under the fluke's skin once you poke through is one of the most common ways of making them weedless.....until you catch a few fish and can't skin them anymore. 

 

-  You could do it this way and use a weedless hook.

 

 

What way do you rig them to make them weedless where you fish?

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Your way is good to keep thing on for sure.

For me, normally I rig Fluke weedless style but if I wanna do banjo style then I will screw twist lock all the way into Fluke as much as I can and use circle hook instead hook into Fluke nose through twstlock. BTW, you can order those twistlock from eBay by 100 just for a few bucks.

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When your "M" size CPS pins are used up could you not just go down to a "S" size without the tubing ?

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1 hour ago, ChrisD46 said:

When your "M" size CPS pins are used up could you not just go down to a "S" size without the tubing ?

 

 

Yes, but because they are smaller I think you would get less grip and lose more. 

 

 

8 hours ago, riverbasser said:

Try that same setup with a SK caffeine shad, i used to throw a lot of flukes until I found the caffiene shads. 

 

 

Why? More effective at catching fish?

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I got this one. Lol

4 hours ago, tcbass said:

 

 

Yes, but because they are smaller I think you would get less grip and lose more. 

 

 

 

 

Why? More effective at catching fish?

Way better action nose hooked, and by fixing the hook into position he's less likely to miss a set than with a loose hook that can slide down toward the cps eye or turn

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What about cutting a section of heat shrink and then placing it on the opening of the CPS, heating it and then inserting the hook. It would resemble a spinnerbait trailer hook. 

 

I would try it, but I don't fish flukes very often. 

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12 minutes ago, ib_of_the_damned said:

What about cutting a section of heat shrink and then placing it on the opening of the CPS, heating it and then inserting the hook. It would resemble a spinnerbait trailer hook. 

 

I would try it, but I don't fish flukes very often. 

 

 

O. That could work too I think. 

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I just skewer the nose on the hook.  Flukes are cheap enough, and pretty durable.

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4 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I just skewer the nose on the hook.  Flukes are cheap enough, and pretty durable.

 

You can save time not going into your tackle box and putting a new Fluke on. 

 

Also, if I can make a bag last twice as long, that's money saved for me. 

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Perhaps screwing the "M" sized CSP down a couple more turns in the nose would secure the hook better while still allowing freedom of movement for the Fluke ?

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36 minutes ago, ChrisD46 said:

Perhaps screwing the "M" sized CSP down a couple more turns in the nose would secure the hook better while still allowing freedom of movement for the Fluke ?

 

 

I tried that, didn't work. I think it got worked loose and/or was never tight enough.

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2 hours ago, ChrisD46 said:

Perhaps screwing the "M" sized CSP down a couple more turns in the nose would secure the hook better while still allowing freedom of movement for the Fluke ?

 

1 hour ago, tcbass said:

 

 

I tried that, didn't work. I think it got worked loose and/or was never tight enough.

It's a good solution. There's several alternatives that come to mind. Superglue, or just melting the plastic over the eye/hook etc

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16 minutes ago, Jvanda1 said:

 

It's a good solution. There's several alternatives that come to mind. Superglue, or just melting the plastic over the eye/hook etc

 

I don't like using superglue if I don't have too, especially on my boat, it would be a disaster. lol. Also, don't like to have to use fire either. 

 

This solution has worked over a few trips and many fish and haven't lost any CPS Twistlocks since. Have had a few flukes torn but that's how they work. It's also a cheap solution as the entire pack of heat shrink only cost 99 cents and I've had it for 6 years.

 

Unless you lose the heat shrink and CPS, one piece of heat shrink and one Owner CPS could last you indefinitely. 

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I applaud the idea,

But Flukes are cheap and landing an extra one, just isn't worth the effort 

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37 minutes ago, NHBull said:

I applaud the idea,

But Flukes are cheap and landing an extra one, just isn't worth the effort 

 

Landing an extra what fish? I'm not understanding what you're saying?

 

Flukes are cheap but CPS Twistlocks aren't. Using this method takes 3 seconds to do and then you virtually won't lose any more CPS Twistlocks. Sure you'll keep going through Flukes as expected but you most likely won't lose any Flukes or CPS Twistlocks just by having your rod getting ready to cast or casting. And like I said, a pack of heat shrink is 99 cents and has lasted almost a decade. 

 

I'm not saying anyone has to do this or that it's the best way. Just spreading this tip for those who want to add it to their toolbox.

 

I really like nose rigging Flukes because of the weedlessness and action and this way of rigging them has been great for us. Do whatever works for you and enjoy! 

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23 minutes ago, tcbass said:

 

Landing an extra what fish? I'm not understanding what you're saying?

 

Flukes are cheap but CPS Twistlocks aren't. Using this method takes 3 seconds to do and then you virtually won't lose any more CPS Twistlocks. Sure you'll keep going through Flukes as expected but you most likely won't lose any Flukes or CPS Twistlocks just by having your rod getting ready to cast or casting. And like I said, a pack of heat shrink is 99 cents and has lasted almost a decade. 

 

I'm not saying anyone has to do this or that it's the best way. Just spreading this tip for those who want to add it to their toolbox.

 

I really like nose rigging Flukes because of the weedlessness and action and this way of rigging them has been great for us. Do whatever works for you and enjoy! 

My misunderstanding!!!!, I never loose twist locks so it didn't occur to me

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28 minutes ago, NHBull said:

My misunderstanding!!!!, I never loose twist locks so it didn't occur to me

 

Ah. Weird for me because I watched the video on using a CPS Twistlock and the guy never said anything about losing any. 

 

I used the exact set up he did and quickly lost 3 CPS Twistlocks in a few mins. lol

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I just use a Owner twistlock 4/0 skin hooked. Works great and completely weedless. Do the same w Owner flashy hooks.

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38 minutes ago, TxHawgs said:

 

38 minutes ago, TxHawgs said:

I just use a Owner twistlock 4/0 skin hooked. Works great and completely weedless. Do the same w Owner flashy hooks.

Totally different presentation. He's nose hooking with a dropshot style hook. More erratic action. 

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What about putting a wacky o-ring on the nose of the fluke & bring your nose hook behind the o-ring?

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